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Old 12-31-2007, 02:33 PM   #15
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Old 12-31-2007, 02:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by T Man
Having read numerous threads on the forum about batteries, I am leaning towards pair of AGM batteries. Anyone have any reccomendations as to where I can get good prices on the Lifeline batteries? (So. California)

Also, I noticed that Trojan has an AGM line now which I think is new... anyone have any experience with these yet?

-Torii
Costco.

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Old 01-01-2008, 06:11 PM   #17
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Costco.

Andy
Hey Andy

Does your Costco carry Lifeline? I was just at my local Costco and they don't carry ant AGM batteries...
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:21 PM   #18
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RE: Moving Battery to Front

Well I see by the thermometer that it is plumbing season again, and moving my battery to the tongue from the rear hatch would sure make it easier. I removed the old freshwater plumbing this afternoon. Four different kinds of plastic or rubber pipe, many, many feet of corroded and broken copper tubing and kazillions of hose clamps. Oh, and lotsa duct tape, spray foam?, and silicone sealant. All of this from one frozen copper "T?"

If I could move the battery to the tongue I could get at the piping better and not have to build it around a big battery, rather, I could build it around the best piping design.

It looks like just one heavy gauge wire runs about a foot to the fuse panel. If I ran about 31' of heavy gauge wire from a battery in the front, would I loose much? I don't boondock. The only time I am not plugged in is when I am hooked to the truck. Maybe that is why that there was not a battery in it when I bought it. Hmmm. Or for that matter I could hook into the umbilical wiring harness input in the front.

Any thoughts on this?
thanks, bill b.
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Old 01-07-2008, 06:41 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bilby05
Well I see by the thermometer that it is plumbing season again, and moving my battery to the tongue from the rear hatch would sure make it easier. I removed the old freshwater plumbing this afternoon. Four different kinds of plastic or rubber pipe, many, many feet of corroded and broken copper tubing and kazillions of hose clamps. Oh, and lotsa duct tape, spray foam?, and silicone sealant. All of this from one frozen copper "T?"

If I could move the battery to the tongue I could get at the piping better and not have to build it around a big battery, rather, I could build it around the best piping design.

It looks like just one heavy gauge wire runs about a foot to the fuse panel. If I ran about 31' of heavy gauge wire from a battery in the front, would I loose much? I don't boondock. The only time I am not plugged in is when I am hooked to the truck. Maybe that is why that there was not a battery in it when I bought it. Hmmm. Or for that matter I could hook into the umbilical wiring harness input in the front.

Any thoughts on this?
thanks, bill b.
Bill,

Use a very heavy guage...like 4AWG and you shouldn't have any loss.
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Old 01-07-2008, 06:12 PM   #20
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What the heck is this?

Thanks Lew. Now that I have your attention I have another question. I am attaching a photo of the fuse block, that I plan on replacing with the newer style with blade type fuses. I have marked in yellow the peculiar (to me) connections on the one end. What is that for? Does it need to go along with a new block or can it be wired out of the loop? or replaced with a newer device?
thanks, bill b.
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Old 01-07-2008, 07:32 PM   #21
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Bill,

?????????? Can't really tell from the shot. Is that the battery cable entering from the lower part of the plate, and is that a solid copper buss bar?

In the new blade fuse units, you will generally feed the battery or converter +12VDC into one connection, and the upstream side of the fuses will attach to it. All if your connections then go to the other side of the fuses....or the downstream side. Make sense?....Hope so!
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Old 01-07-2008, 08:10 PM   #22
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It's really simple

Get yourself a couple of Trojans or a couple of good AGMs, a nice solar panel and a small Honda generator for those rainy days.

I would NEVER put four heavy batteries on the tongue of MY Airstream!
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Old 01-07-2008, 09:04 PM   #23
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I know Trojans are quite popular and certainly a good battery but you might also price the comparable size in the MK-DEKA line for both Gel and AGM. I got what I thought was a good price on two of their Group 24 Gels (needed to fit them in the stock 25' CCD battery box) and delivery in two days. The local RV dealers didn't stock Trojans, offered to get them but not soon enough for our departure date.


Quote:
Originally Posted by T Man
Having read numerous threads on the forum about batteries, I am leaning towards pair of AGM batteries. Anyone have any reccomendations as to where I can get good prices on the Lifeline batteries? (So. California)

Also, I noticed that Trojan has an AGM line now which I think is new... anyone have any experience with these yet?

-Torii
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:48 PM   #24
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What it is?

The stuff inside the "yellow box" is all hot wires. What it looks like (with my vast electrical experience :-)) is a way of patching all of the hot wires together. The black wire runs to the light that illuminates the compartment at night when trying to find the burnt out fuse. At first look, I thought there must be some function to having two pieces of metal, one with a slit in it that had something to changing resistance or some other mystical function, but it just looks like a place to connect all of the hot wires together without a big connector. I just thought it was a common thing that everyone had and some even understood. When I swith from the univolt to a more modern system at least I will have a separate fuse block in place.
cheers, bill b.
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Old 01-09-2008, 07:04 PM   #25
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What it is, revisited

Well, that went well. My previous post seems to have evaporated, but since it was confusing thats ok.

Lew.
I see what you mean. The extra block seems to serve the purpose of collecting the wires that go to the hot side of the block and connecting them to the hot side of the battery.

As you said, a new blade style block should have one hot connection which services all 6 circuits and then an "out" wire from the out side of each connection.

Now I just need to identify each circuit so I can be sure to get the right sizes of fuses in the right places.

thanks, bill b.
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