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Old 05-13-2017, 09:01 AM   #1
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Adding Second 50AMP Power Inlet

I have a 2016 25FB with dual 15k BTU A/C's and 50AMP service. The 50 AMP power Inlet is to the rear of the trailer. I would like to add an additional power Inlet to the front of the trailer so it's more convenient when operating off of the generator. Is this possible?
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:11 AM   #2
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Yes it can be done but you will want an isolation switch to select which umbilical cord you are using. This is to insure no voltage at the end of the unused cord. The switch for 50amps will not be cheap.

it would be a lot easier to just use an extension cord added to the umbilical to reach the front. I often have to use an extension to reach shore power.
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:34 AM   #3
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Done properly, I would guess that this would cost between one and two thousand dollars (including professional labor.) Your current 50 amp cord is probably plenty long to reach from the front of the trailer where you want to place your generator to the existing inlet, so what's the problem you are trying to solve?
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:25 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dannyfishes View Post
I have a 2016 25FB with dual 15k BTU A/C's and 50AMP service. The 50 AMP power Inlet is to the rear of the trailer. I would like to add an additional power Inlet to the front of the trailer so it's more convenient when operating off of the generator. Is this possible?
If you would be happy without an automatic switch and you are a DIY person with basic electric wiring skills and tools, adding a power inlet can be done economically. You would need a manual throw switch, wiring, and a power inlet. Both power cords would feed the switch. The switch would feed the existing distribution center. The hardest part is finding a suitable location for the switch box and running the wires where they would be hidden.
Those switches can be fairly large and not pretty to look at. I think it would cost less than $500 in materials.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:46 AM   #5
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That's why the extra 30 amp outlet on the new one AC Airstreams is genius.
If you just want to avoid dragging out the 50 amp power cord, I bought one if these. It's a 25' cord with a 50amp female and a 30 amp male, just to reach the truck bed.
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Voltec Industries 16-00588 30-Ampere to 50-Ampere RV Locking 10/3 STW Cord, 25-Feet
If you want to use the generator while driving, then you need the switch. I suspect AS doesn't offer that as a feature on the 50 amp service because the extra hardware for two 50 amp circuits is not profitable.
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Old 05-13-2017, 02:44 PM   #6
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Hmmm. My 2010 25 FB with 30 amp service came with power inlets both fore and aft.
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Old 05-13-2017, 03:24 PM   #7
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Hmmm. My 2010 25 FB with 30 amp service came with power inlets both fore and aft.
Yes, and one A/C unit.
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Old 05-13-2017, 04:02 PM   #8
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I could add just a 30AMP if that would be easier. I'll just be using it to plug in the generator.
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Old 05-13-2017, 04:38 PM   #9
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You will have to install a manual "Break Before Make" 50 amp rotary switch "or" a 50 amp automatic transfer switch plus wiring from the switch to each inlet.

To just run wire straight from one inlet to another is dangerous since once connected to power both inlets would be hot all the time. The above switches isolate the inlets so only one inlet can be hot at any one time.
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Old 05-13-2017, 09:39 PM   #10
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I could add just a 30AMP if that would be easier. I'll just be using it to plug in the generator.
Having 30 amp in the front and 50 amp in the rear would be more difficult to do correctly, since the 50 amp is 240v and the 30 amp is 120v. You would have to add a switch of some sort and modify the distribution panel wiring. I think you would have to add a secondary distribution panel to do it correctly. (more new things to locate in your small space)

In your trailer's present configuration, one air conditioner is on each of the two 120v legs of the 240v circuit. With a 30 amp only you would not be able to run both AC's. If you re-arranged the circuits to put both AC units on the same 120v leg you would loose the ability to charge the battery and run the fridge on 120v. The use of these 4 items only would exceed the 30 amp capacity.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:22 PM   #11
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Why could you not just buy a 50 amp receptacle that is not wired to anything.

The 50 amp cord is always plugged into this in the storage compartment.

When the 30 amp cord is plugged into the generator, the 50 amp cord will be energized but no harm since in plugged into the "dead" receptacle.
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:59 PM   #12
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wow!!!
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:45 PM   #13
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Having 30 amp in the front and 50 amp in the rear would be more difficult to do correctly, since the 50 amp is 240v and the 30 amp is 120v.
Not really. In the RV a 50 amp inlet is two 50 amp 125v. lines. 30 amp is one 30 amp 125 v. line.
The problem is you need the 50 amp inlet to be available for shore power or generator power, so you can't just combine the two legs like in a 30-50 dogbone.
The danger of paralleling the two inlets is that if you're plugged into the rear one, the male terminals of the front one are hot! That's why you need a transfer switch.
Either/Or. If it was easy, AS would do it.
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Old 05-14-2017, 10:50 PM   #14
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Why could you not just buy a 50 amp receptacle that is not wired to anything.

The 50 amp cord is always plugged into this in the storage compartment.

When the 30 amp cord is plugged into the generator, the 50 amp cord will be energized but no harm since in plugged into the "dead" receptacle.
Did I ever tell you about my idea for using the generator in the event of a power failure at home? Make a AC cord with a male plug on both ends. Plug one into the generator and the other into a wall outlet. Then any outlet on that buss is energized.
"Here hold my beer, watch this!"
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:16 AM   #15
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Too many people do this every year. Some of them forget to disconnect from utility service , putting line workers at risk. It will work and it is reasonable safe as long as you isolate the energized circuit and preferably open your main breakers.

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Old 05-15-2017, 11:52 PM   #16
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Not really. In the RV a 50 amp inlet is two 50 amp 125v. lines. 30 amp is one 30 amp 125 v. line.
The problem is you need the 50 amp inlet to be available for shore power or generator power, so you can't just combine the two legs like in a 30-50 dogbone.
The danger of paralleling the two inlets is that if you're plugged into the rear one, the male terminals of the front one are hot! That's why you need a transfer switch.
Either/Or. If it was easy, AS would do it.
You must have missed the part in my post where I said "correctly", and described that. The concept is simple basic electrical stuff. The equipment is readily available off the shelf. Finding a place for the new extra equipment inside a trailer makes it more challenging.

Feeding from two different power sources is done safely every day. It requires a new secondary/auxiliary panel and a transfer switch. It is done exactly the same way on a trailer as it would be when using a 120v generator to power some 120v circuits in a house, where the primary power source is 240v.

ps:
I notice you said 125v and I said 120v. I've heard some people say 110v and others say 115v. Generally the utilities proved a range of power that varies depending on where one is and the utilities equipment. I think the allowable range is ~110 to ~125v AC. Where I live it is pretty steady around 120v.
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Old 05-25-2017, 09:01 PM   #17
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When upgrading our trailer from 120 VAC 30 amp to 240/120 VAC 50 amp, we installed an Eaton 14-space 240/120 VAC loadcenter, CH14B100BP.

For the switch from shore to generator, we use the manual Eaton CH8BFM loadcenter mechanical interlock cover. It's fully UL listed for switching between sources. Make sure that you use only a ETL, UL, CSA, or similarly "listed" device specific for this purpose.

There's a 50A, 2-pole OCPD (circuit breaker) when on shore, and there's a 30A, 2-pole OCPD when attached to our Honda EU6500 generator. Using either, we connect 240 VAC into the trailer.

Our shore-power 4-wire SmartPlug is street-side just forward of the front wheel, and the generator-power 4-wire SmartPlug is on the front, street side of center. Agree that most times, we could reach the side-mounted SmartPlug from the generator in the truck bed. I had the space to add the second plug up front, and so I did.

73/gus
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