Added a Battery Cutoff and Rewired the Box

[Betty Farmer]

Batteries are my bug-a-boo. Our 2005 28' Classic has a switch under the couch that I have been instructed to turn off when parked. Question: since we routinely hook up to electricity when parking at home, do I need to turn this switch off?

Also,does that switch serve the same purpose as the one that Ernster put on his battery box?

"using the switch as a common positive post" What specifically does this mean?

Wayne G. Why do you have 3 batteries. Our 28' Classic only has positions for 2 batteries. Would I want a third battery mounted somewhere?

You fellas are great, I read your posts every day and appreciated the posts of all of you. Please keep em coming.

[Ernster]

Originally Posted by Betty Farmer

Batteries are my bug-a-boo. Our 2005 28' Classic has a switch under the couch that I have been instructed to turn off when parked. Question: since we routinely hook up to electricity when parking at home, do I need to turn this switch off?

Also,does that switch serve the same purpose as the one that Ernster put on his battery box?

"using the switch as a common positive post" What specifically does this mean?

Wayne G. Why do you have 3 batteries. Our 28' Classic only has positions for 2 batteries. Would I want a third battery mounted somewhere?

You fellas are great, I read your posts every day and appreciated the posts of all of you. Please keep em coming.

I have all of the cables coming from the rig to one post on the switch instead of to the battery posts. Positive cables go to the switch. Negative cables go a single post mounted at the back of the battery box.

[Davidwantz]

I love the clean arrangement and clever solution to the mess that is in the battery box. Can I mention pulling them out each winter? Ugh.

As to the need to cut off the battery from the coach, isn't this switch on the post a simpler solution?

[WayneG]

Originally Posted by Betty Farmer

Wayne G. Why do you have 3 batteries. Our 28' Classic only has positions for 2 batteries. Would I want a third battery mounted somewhere?

My battery setup is for a MH, not a TT.
One battery for the MH chassis the other 2 are on the switch for everything else.
My switch is in the + lines because I also have 400 watts of solar and the solar monitor has a shunt in the - line to read total current charge/draw. The battery switch allows me to use/charge battery A or B or both and the off position allows me to work on the solar gear without frying everything.

[SeaLevel]

Blue Sea Systems has a new version of the switch coming out soon: https://www.bluesea.com/products/600...king_Key_-_Red

The locking feature might be the only thing that is different - not sure. I definitely want to install one though. Much easier way to disconnect the batteries and I don't like the current battery clamps.

[SeaLevel]

Originally Posted by Ernster

Hole saw from the inside. That was the hardest part of the project. It's difficult to get pressure directly behind the drill.

The switch I bought can be fully surface mounted on the outside. I thought it looked better the way I did it.

Thanks. I agree, it does look good the way you did it. Can you point me to what you used for the common battery post?

[Troutboy]

Ernster, why hole saw from inside? I just cut two 1 inch holes into that battery box and I did it from the outside?

[Mollysdad]

I probably could have saved $1000 worth of batteries on my MH if I had a disconnect like yours. During storage, they always drained due to certain things that can't be disconnected. And it wasn't as simple as pulling off the Red wire, there were two chassis batteries and four house batteries all with multiple connections.

Your install is very clean.
My only question would be if the switch is protected from weather.
Both rain and road grime while towing.

[Boog]

Does adding a battery cutoff make the use/store switch and solenoid setup redundant? If possible, I'd rather have a mechanical switch and bypass the solenoid - one less gizmo to fail.

[Troutboy]

Boog,

The battery cutoff as shown here completely isolates the battery, no loads come of fit. The use/store switch only isolates the DC loads from the control panel (lights, pump, etc). So when you have the use/store switch in store, power from batteries is still present and can run loads from the bus bars, such as propane detect, jack, etc). and others would say there are other phantom loads.

So a switch like the OP posted here truly disconnects the battery from ALL loads, no drain even when in the store position.....

[Ernster]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Ernster, why hole saw from inside? I just cut two 1 inch holes into that battery box and I did it from the outside?

I wanted to the cleaner look of the way I mounted the switch and there is not enough clearance between the A frame and the battery box.

[Ernster]

Originally Posted by SeaLevel

Thanks. I agree, it does look good the way you did it. Can you point me to what you used for the common battery post?

Power Post:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/200...5_16in-18_Stud

[Mikenbern]

I installed 2 easy disconnects total cost just over $20 (actually $10 since I had one already)

[Ernster]

Originally Posted by Mikenbern

I installed 2 easy disconnects total cost just over $20 (actually $10 since I had one already)Attachment 284443

As long does what you want to accomplish.

[Betty Farmer]

Thank you, Wayne G. I did not recognize the set up being a motor home. Should have as our motor home has 4 and this would certainly cut down on the briar patch of wiring.

[Ernster]

Drilled it from the inside due to way I mounted the switch. Just personal preference.

[Ernster]

Originally Posted by Boog

Does adding a battery cutoff make the use/store switch and solenoid setup redundant? If possible, I'd rather have a mechanical switch and bypass the solenoid - one less gizmo to fail.

The cut off switch is wired at the batteries and disconnects the entire trailer. The batteries are 100% isolated.

[Hans627]

This look like a pretty straight forward addition to the battery box but it has been several years since it was added I was curious if there have been any updates or anything you would have done differently?

Thanks for sharing the info.

[rmkrum]

Here’s what I did:



Blue Sea battery on/off switch mounted inside a modified double outlet water resistant in-use cover from the big box home improvement store. I used a heat gun and a chunk of wood to put a bulge in the cover to clear the knob. I also had to enlarge the holes to fit the switch and wires better. The cover can be locked if i get really paranoid. It’s all mounted with stainless steel sheet metal screws straight into the aluminum. There is a foam gasket part of the cover to keep water out. Next time I open a tube of sealant I’ll put a bead around the gasket to protect it.

All the 4 gauge wires are covered with slit tubing to protect from sunlight. It’s mounted streetside because the positive side of the batteries are on that side. There is a shunt for the battery negative lead mounted inside on the front wall near the 12 volt power wiring for a battery monitor. I upped the all the wiring sizes to 4 gauge to handle an inverter if I chose to add one. There is a Blue Sea MRBF fuseholder bolted on right at the battery positive post with an 80 amp fuse in it for wire protection.