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Old 04-15-2014, 09:53 PM   #15
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The Boondocker does not have an internal fuse panel like your old converter. You could use the fuse panel out of your existing converter or you can add a new one.

Parallax has a pretty good replacement fuse panel if you decide to go with a new one. There is a wiring diagram on the second page that is exactly how you will need to wire your Boondocker. You can buy this panel through Vintage Trailer Supply among others.

If you use your existing fuse panel from your Magnetek, you need to mount it in such a way that nothing conductive could fall on the positive lugs and arc to the shell of the trailer. Some people just leave the fuse panel in the old converter housing and use it there.

I did move all of my DC circuits as a part of my Boondocker install.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:13 AM   #16
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1966 24' Tradewind
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I may be in trouble. My DC circuits and existing fuse panel are on the curb side of the trailer in the rear. My Magnetek 3200 is on the street side. I did not realize the Magnetek had a fuse panel inside the housing. I don't know why the 12v circuits have two fuse panels. The one on the curb side rear has two fuses, and several circuit breakers.


I'm no electrical guy and I'm worried about installing a stand alone converter missing the "standard" internal fuse panel.


David
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:04 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Garnet Tech Support suspected a bad ground. I measured 2 ohms from the display connector to the ground spot I selected. Since I had cleaned the trailer frame (ugh!) with a die grinder and stiff wire brush, I paid special attention to the DC ground and the AC ground spots on the rear of the frame. Nice bright metal on both sides of the bolt. None the less, I ran a separate "test wire" from the instrument to the battery ground and get the same erratic display when on shore power.
That's way too high. It should be low enough that you can't measure it with a regular meter - less than 0.1 ohm.

Somewhere you have either a bad crimp, a corroded connection, or something loose. Or maybe some frame components that aren't connected together electrically. Use your meter and try different points on the path until you find the problem.
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Old 04-16-2014, 10:05 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
It is going to have to be one mother of a choke to handle 60 Amps or whatever the current capacity is.

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That's why ferrite beads are used.
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Old 04-17-2014, 06:51 AM   #19
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Thanks Jammer,


The Garnet technical support person (pleasant and helpful) said the display will work if there is less than 40 ohms resistance on the ground wire from the display to the battery post. I was much less than that, but 20 times greater than you suggest. Gee, I measured about 1 ohm resistance in 30 feet of 18 gauge wire. It seems every conductor has some resistance. It is true the Garnet display is a sensitive device, and so are the senders mounted on the tanks. Garnet was adamant that the display have a clean ground to the battery post.


I know the instrument works well as wired when the AC shore power is off. It goes whacky when I plug in. I think my 15 year old converter is an effective RF generator and less effective at producing clean 12v DC. I'll "throw" new parts at the problem and see what happens. It's only money!


David
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:04 AM   #20
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I took all of your advice and installed a new PowerMax Boondocker yesterday in my old, old Trade Wind. I wired it to my current old, old fuse panel just to see in the PowerMax solved my voltage ripple problem.


WaLa! Wacky display units be gone! The new PowerMax provides smooth DV voltage to all my DC circuits just like they advertised it would.


The old Magnatek converter (1999 installed) was actually wired wrong. I opened it up during the PowerMax install and found an instruction decal that said the "red" wire was a low amp "filtered" DC power supply for radios and other sensitive devices. The "blue" wire was for powering the rest of the trailer DC circuits. I had thought the blue wire was for charging the battery as I measured 14 volts coming out of it, and only 12 volts on the red wire. The 1999 installer hooked the Magnatek "blue" wire to the battery charging side, and the "red" wire to power the DC circuits. I think if I had tried to switch these two, I may have had better luck with my SeeLevel display.


Oh well, live and learn. I am happy my SeeLevel display works well, and now I have a modern converter that will take better care of my battery.


I may install a new fuse panel later. There were no fuses I saw in the Magnatek. There are two 30 amp fuses in the new PowerMax.


David
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