8 ga wire connection problem

[63air]

I'm in the process of installing a new Intelli-power using the recommended 8 AWG wire and have run into a problem . The instructions call for a three way splice and I'm not sure of the best way to make that connection ,plus I can't find anything to make it with . As far as I know wire nuts don't exist for 3 # 8 wires nor do three way crimp connectors.

All I can come up with is using an automotive single stud junction block. A Bussman # JB381602 looks like it would work if I can find somebody who sells them. I'm sure others have run into this problem and there has to be an easy solution.

[Mexray]

One solution is to use three #10 ring terminal ends, then bolt them together to form a solid connection...you might then use some silicone goo to coat and insulate the connection, or some electrical tape coiled around to cover - or both...

There are probably wire nuts large enough to handle three # 8 wires, available from an electrical supply house, but you'd probably have to buy a whole box quantity...

An electrical supply house should also have a copper lug large enough for the three wires to fit inside, and has a large set screw to secure the wires together...

Twisting the stripped ends of the wires together, with a little flux and then solder is probably the best way to insure good electrical conductivity...followed up with the silicone and tape...

The possibilities are (shockingly) endless...

Ray

[Melody Ranch]

I am sure that Randy, at Best Converter" will help you out.

I cant figure out your three way splice. Seems to me that the converter should have a power cord in, a ground wire out and a wire out to the pos battery terminal.

[GO Bob]

The silicone will corrode the copper wires just like it will aluminun.

[Jim & Susan]

Originally Posted by GO Bob

The silicone will corrode the copper wires just like it will aluminun.

Yep, try a "no-ox" compound. You can get it from your local electrical supply company. Look's a little bit like grease, but will keep the bare copper from corroding.

Jim

[63air]

I was following the schematic that VTS and Inteli-power had . I guess an acceptable alternative is to hook the converter to the battery and then hook my 12v supply line directly into the battery also so that the battery is acting as the junction block?

[Rebee]

Solder would be my choice, but one could also go to Radio Shack and get a terminal strip with a cover and a selection of wire lugs. Put lugs on wires and mount in the terminal strip. Place the strip in a convient location. This method will make convient trouble shooting in the future.

[ROBERT CROSS]

Solder....

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by Rebee

Solder would be my choice, but one could also go to Radio Shack and get a terminal strip with a cover and a selection of wire lugs. Put lugs on wires and mount in the terminal strip. Place the strip in a convient location. This method will make convient trouble shooting in the future.

Crimp! Solder will cause the wire to break just past where the solder ends. This is why the FAA does not allow solder in Airplanes. There are few exceptions. The solder creates a hard end for the wire to flex under vibration.
You can get wire nuts up the #6 or possibly larger. Marine supply places will have crimp ends in any size you want.
You plan to run to the battery then another line off the battery will work well if your battery is not on a sliding tray.

[Jammer]

Well you can use a split bolt. Available at hardware stores and home centers in sizes from 14 gauge to 1 gauge and larger. Cover with tape or shrink wrap....

[Jammer]

Or you can get something like this, from Affordable Solar. No tape required if you mount it inside an enclosure....

[Jammer]

Or you can get splices like these at most home centers. Again, tape and shink wrap.

[Jammer]

Or you might be able to use something like this to get the number of splices down. Available at midsouthelectronics.com, stacked electrical lugs lug splicer reducer turn prevent mechanical connectors and probably elsewhere as well.

[arodriguez60]

You can also use a piece copper tubing. I used copper tubing regularly when I did automotive wiring. I prefer it compared to those prefabed connectors. just wrap it up afterwords with heat shrink tubing.

[Jammer]

You can also use wire nuts. In most brands either the large gray or large blue connectors are sized for three #8 stranded.

Or you can crimp the ends to ring terminals and stack the rings on a stud.

There are also high-quality crimp terminals that work well in these sizes. Borrow the tools from a friend who is an electrician or lineman as they're several hundred dollars.

In general, good high-current DC design minimizes the number of free-floating splices. You want to have things bolted down to equipment terminals or busbars whenever possible, because it keeps the splice accessible so you can check later to be sure it's not heating up.

[63air]

Found exactly what I wanted in the West Marine catalogue , it's a power post , you can stack three ring terminals on it and it also has a protective rubber boot that covers everything. I know a lot of other suggestions would work fine, but I just don't like wire nuts or splices if I can avoid them. When you can see everything it makes it a lot easier to work on and maintain.