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Old 10-25-2015, 08:43 PM   #1
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7 way plug replacement help

The PO must have dragged the existing plug at one time and when i connect it to my new TV it is easily displaced from the receptacle. I have been holding it in with a small bungi cord wrap while under way It is a sealed plug and I hesitate to cut open the plug to get to the wires. An additional complication is that the wire cannot be shortened as the length just fits when the trailer is straight on. I would be willing to replace the wire or better yet is there a way to splice another wire plus plug int the existing wire? I have the addition that came with the PP in case i needed an extension. All hgelp appreciated.

>>ron<<
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Old 10-25-2015, 11:46 PM   #2
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A PO of ours put a 7 pin jack on the trailer. If we ever meet in person, the refreshments are on me. If my cable goes bad, I can simply buy another. Highly recommended.
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Old 10-26-2015, 12:37 AM   #3
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Ron, if it just barely fits when straight on, I would either replace the umbilical with one a bit longer, or get/make an extension.

After dragging the umbilical on a boat trailer, I now have a nylon cord safety strap on the Airstream and both boats. It just ties to the bumper so if the plus ever comes out, it won't touch the pavement
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Old 10-26-2015, 08:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carver 1 View Post
The PO must have dragged the existing plug at one time and when i connect it to my new TV it is easily displaced from the receptacle. I have been holding it in with a small bungi cord wrap while under way It is a sealed plug and I hesitate to cut open the plug to get to the wires. An additional complication is that the wire cannot be shortened as the length just fits when the trailer is straight on. I would be willing to replace the wire or better yet is there a way to splice another wire plus plug int the existing wire? I have the addition that came with the PP in case i needed an extension. All hgelp appreciated.

>>ron<<
Early on I too drug the plug and it wore the retention tab away. I was prepared to replace the whole thing and had the extra length, but I experimented.

My fix was to get a hose clamp the size of the plug, and found that the barrel of the clamp worked perfectly in keeping the plug in place with the vehicle's.

Might not work for you, but for me it did.

Good luck!
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:36 AM   #5
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Thanks for all the good replies. Does anyone know if there is an easy way to merely splice additional wire to the existing wire once I cut off the bad plug so that I can lengthen the cord, while replacing the AS plug?

>>ron<<
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:42 AM   #6
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Sure you can!
I might suggest using a weather tight box mounted on the frame to house the splices. You can get really nice pre molded umbilical cords from places like e trailer, online.
If it was me, I would solder and shrink wrap for the best integrity!
Happy fixing!
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Old 10-26-2015, 01:56 PM   #7
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If you are not 100% certain that you will always have a good connection, have a pro replace the cable. Jury rigging your brake activation circuit could result in a really bad day!
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Old 10-31-2015, 08:22 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by carver 1 View Post
Thanks for all the good replies. Does anyone know if there is an easy way to merely splice additional wire to the existing wire once I cut off the bad plug so that I can lengthen the cord, while replacing the AS plug?

>>ron<<
We bought a replacement 7 circuit cord for less than $50 (connector on one side, pigtails on the other) from the Spokane airstream dealer. Splicing, when taking into account the almost certain reduction in long-term reliability, is really not worth it.

I should post a picture of how we got our trailer home... Marr connector splices (by some previous owner) from the tow-vehicle side to the Airstream side. No electrical tape or any other kind of sealing. Even that would have been acceptable, if they hadn't mixed up the circuits and I ended up going home with one taillight. We later tested all the connections individually and found the wiring mixups and some twisted-together wires in the taillight housings.
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Old 10-31-2015, 10:16 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by carver 1 View Post
Thanks for all the good replies. Does anyone know if there is an easy way to merely splice additional wire to the existing wire once I cut off the bad plug so that I can lengthen the cord, while replacing the AS plug?

>>ron<<
Think if you use a 7 wire junction box it'll do what youre looking for.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...tro/38656.html

Buy a box and new short 7 pin plug to wire to it, if you have to replace the plug again in the future just undo at the box.
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:46 PM   #10
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Due to limited mobility and eyesight, I struggled to 'replace' our Umbilical cord over the last 2 days.

Problem began when leaving camp last weekend... when I applied the brakes, the AS had a 'delay' before engaging....

Upon arrival home, the LEFT turn/stop signal stopped working...

Great..

There was a defective connector in the '7-way plug' as I could twist it and lose continuity to the brakes and the Left turn/stop signal..

I cut off the head of the cable and probed each wire... only to find the Left signal ws not working properly.. I removed one of the LED tail lamps and installed a 'standard bulb'..I had over 95 Ohms resistance...

So, after some 'fretting', and contortions, I located the 'connector' in the street side access hatch inside the rear storage bin! After MORE contortions I was able to get one hand on it and 'reseated' the connector... Lo and behold, CONTINUITY was restored on the Left and improved on the other circuits!! They are now identical using a standard bulb!

It gets better.. I opened the BERG box under the Gaucho on the bow wall... Guess what?? someone had wired the box incorrectly! Well, the labels on the terminal block were all in the wrong place!!!And, the Yellow wire turns 'black'as it leaves the BERG box terminal block!!! It is noted in the Airstream manual... but it is hard to find..

So, I bought a 10' molded 7-way and started in... the goop they seal the entrance hole with was great! Took about 3 hours of steady work to free the umbilical without damage to other devices!! I did not go with the 'solvent' method.. instead, i just kept pulling the adhesive away until the cable freed up!

Since the wire were on 'mis labeled' terminals, I carefully cut off the old umbilical cable ends about a foot back from the terminals, then, one by one I swapped out the 'cut' wire with a new one.

There was a glitch... the white and black wires in the umbilical go to more 'distant' locations.. so, I got some 'wire clamps', used them to connect the cut wires, then wrapped with silicone tape, followed by electrical tape...

While inspecting the underside of the AS, where the umbilical enters, I checked the 'grounds' on the trailer frame... they were both bad.. So, out comes Mr. Dremel with a 'metal cutting' blade I cut off the head of the bolts which had become rusted to the locknut... I replaced the 'grounding lugs' and the mounting bolts.. replaced with new.. and now have a wonderful 'ground path' for my 12VDC!!!

I also noticed the inside of the cross 'C-chanel' was catching lots of rainwater when towed!!! So, I treated the inside of the C channels with "Corrosion X... Will check again.. but think this will work.. Maybe drill a 'drain hole in the channel so water can 'drain'..

We now have all the 12VDC running smoothly.. for now!

NOTE: DO get the 10' molded cord... you will need every inch of it.. unless you choose to have an external "terminal box" where you don't have to crawl under your AS... probably a good idea for rainy days...
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:31 AM   #11
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You can splice new molded cable to the existing cable. I did it sitting in the parking lot of a Walmart in Wasila, Alaska. I used the butt splice connectors on each wire, heat shrink on each wire, and tape and large heat shrink on the bundle. I staggered the length of each wire so the butt connectors are not in one big lump. I added a good bit of length and made a coil up high wire tied to the flag pole holder so that even if it comes loose again it will not drag. Mine has come loose several times for various reasons. The connector on the Dodge seems not to lock the plugs as well as it should. I am going to try some of the suggestions above for holding it in.
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