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Old 05-16-2012, 11:43 PM   #15
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Original Tow Vehicle Charge Wire

TG Twinkie:

As for a charge line from the tow vehicle, I have found a large gauge blue wire leading to the low voltage distribution center. I found the cut-off switch for the TV battery, disconnected from its indicator light on the gauge panel.

In the attached photo, the spaghetti coming out of the wall, the blue wire you mentioned is the one that loops down lower than the rest. It's very dusty, so the blue might not come through.
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:55 PM   #16
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Univolt: What's wrong with this picture?

Maybe this should have been my first question, but I didn't have the photos organized yet.

What's wrong with this picture? I have an idea -- Doesn't the large red wire, that's screwed to the second fused space, belong in the copper lug on the fuse block?

Are the blue and red wires providing the 12v to the fuse block there in the front of the Univolt?

I'd like to quickly add -- it was like that when I bought it!
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:44 AM   #17
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Okay, it's pretty clear someone hacked up your wiring for some reason.

Normally, there is a large main wire that goes to the fuse block (in your case it looks like the red one on the right, but I'd think that should be on the top left terminal), then that distributes the power to the individual circuits which would connect on the right.

Personally, I would start over: figure out what circuit each wire is (lighting, fans, whatever) and mark them. Then you need to find a way to connect the + wire from the battery to the converter, and run one "combined" wire to the left top of that fuse block. (On my converter, I think there are two + terminals and two - terminals for exactly this reason - the connection to the battery would go in one, and the other would go to the terminal block. But in my camper there's a separate place for them to connect on a distribution block.) Then connect the accessory circuits to the right lugs. Ground wires from battery/converter should go to that bottom lug. It's more work, but when you're done you will know exactly what everything is.

I'm not sure what's going on with that fourth fuse you have there. The bottom-left lug is a little disturbing considering black is usually negative and red is usually positive...
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:22 AM   #18
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The fuse panel shown is typical of what was used. But since you have a separate control panel A$ may have used a different option. Plus, it looks like a PO did some imagineering here.
You could start by disconnecting one wire at a time, then check to see what doesn't work.
My guess would be the blue wire is the charge line from the TV and the red wire on the right may be the battery lead. The fuse between the red and blue protects the charge line. It is backwards in my opinion. If the red wire on the right is the battery, it should be connected on the left and the blue wire on the right.
Do you know how to use a meter? If not, we can teach you.
Do you know what color wires feed power to the control panel?
Do all of the lights, pump and furnace have power?
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:34 AM   #19
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What's wrong with this picture? I have an idea -- Doesn't the large red wire, that's screwed to the second fused space, belong in the copper lug on the fuse block? Disconnect the red wire on the right and see what goes dead. If you can trace this wire, tell us where it goes. I'm guessing the battery.

Are the blue and red wires providing the 12v to the fuse block there in the front of the Univolt? I think the blue wire is the TV charge line. We will have to ID each of the wires.

Where are the 40 amp fuses located? Are they wired into the battery leads?
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:53 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Where are the 40 amp fuses located? Are they wired into the battery leads?
Here is a photo of the original location of the 2-40amp fuse block. I need to get a photo of the sequence of connections (converter, fuses, battery, 12v low voltage distribution center)
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:09 PM   #21
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Anne

I only have 5 connections in the door of my univolt hot, neutral and grd. for 120v and pos and neg for 12v. There are NO fuses in my univolt.

I GUESS that they installed a univolt with options you did not need, airstream was not all that consistant.

So IF the po didnt change anything and all your connections at the dist panel up front are ok (did you have 12v power before?) I would just connect the pos neg and ground to the new converter, plug it in and go. If it is ok to run your new converter w/out the battery then I would also disconnect it for your first trial.

The only fuses I have in the back of my coach are just like the ones you show in the pic above, they are between battery and dist panel.

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Old 05-17-2012, 10:00 PM   #22
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A pictorial present for Anne, this is the front of my old univolt,with the door open.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:06 AM   #23
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Can you determine if the 40 amp fuses are in the battery leads?
The unit in your trailer may not be original. At this point it dorsn't matter. Since you are replacing it. We just need to ID the wiring then make sure it is properly protected.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:23 AM   #24
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Thanks, fellas!

Here is what I think about the layout for 12v in my particular 68 Airstream Trade Wind. The company must have used a Univolt that was on hand, provided the necessary hookup for the 12v distribution panel in the Control Center. I do not need to worry that circuits were run from the Univolt panel.

I do need to check continuity of the main wiring from the converter and battery, and the wiring for all destinations (motors, lights, appliances, outlets).

I can install the PD 9245, but test it without the battery first.

Q&A: Yes, I have always had 12v where it is expected to be. Everything worked except a switch from the center double bed bulkhead, for turning off or on an overhead light in the "wardrobe" area just in front of the bathroom. Other non-working or non-existent items were the black tank level probe, and the fresh water level probe. All the leads for these missing items are in place, just need to carefully attach them one at a time.

I think my day's work is contained here. I'll post pics later tonight.

Tomorrow, we paint the floor. Sunday, I finish the plumbing and rough-in the kitchen. Stay tuned!

Thanks so much for helping me. You are princes, all.
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:29 AM   #25
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PS If I suddenly quit posting, I haven't lost interest. My Dad is in bad health, I am the POA for lots of issues and procedures. Same for my brother, a Friend of Bill W., who recently sustained a traumatic brain injury and brain bleed. He's getting back on track, and in a good facility. One day at a time -- for both of them, and me. We're all that's left of our nuclear family.

Not seeking pity, just sayin'. And, if you're a praying or energy healing person, I'll take all you can send.

Working on the Trade Wind and anticipating camping trips keeps me sane.
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:46 PM   #26
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Anne

surely my prayers are with you....

I know what you mean in your last sentence it sure is a nice escape from reality to work on and think about working on the tw.

Kevin
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:48 PM   #27
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From converter to distribution

Update: I connected the PD 9245, without the battery for now, and I have 12v power to lights & water pump. I stopped there because I was so excited, I had to run in here and post about it.

I have shore power, through the 30 amp cord, plugged into my park-like 30 amp outlet. The cord leads to the 120v breaker box with house-like circuit breakers. The distribution of 120 volts seems pretty simple. The first circuit breaker on the right goes to the converter outlet and to another outlet that had been in the bath, above the vanity, curb-side back corner, about half-way up the fiberglass end cap, and beside it, a 12v wire connection is ready for something there.

The The Romex that directly connected to the Univolt is easy to convert to an outlet. I'm leaving everything where I found it, but modified if necessary. I had to take everything apart to get the interior skins off to replace the bath floor, the last 4 feet of floor in the trailer, approximately.

The fuses I now have between the converter and the distribution panel for 12v are in this order, upstream to downstream:
(2) 30 amp blade-type fuses (1) positive and (1) negative on the connections on the converter. Fused 12v leads go to the battery.

At the battery posts, the leads from the converter are paired with another set of positive and negative, one each. This second pair then have 40-amp fuses in-line (2), and lead on to the 12v distribution panel.

So I read that the converter can be grounded to the ribs or shell? The main breaker box has a pretty small ground wire that had been attached to the frame, but it corroded away along with the floor, during all the movement allowed by having nothing connected to the frame back there (the infamous rear-end separation). Behave.

Next step is to confirm 12v at all light fixtures, motors, starters, furnace, thermostat, etc., that I have continuity from the distribution panel.

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Old 05-18-2012, 04:49 PM   #28
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Thanks, KevinB

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinb View Post
Anne

surely my prayers are with you....

I know what you mean in your last sentence it sure is a nice escape from reality to work on and think about working on the tw.

Kevin
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