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Old 04-11-2011, 02:43 PM   #1
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1978 Argosy 30
Hope , Maine
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50 AMP fuse on Neg or Positive

Hello, First time posting a question, although I've found this resource useful throughout the course of my renovation.

1978 Argosy 30'. Have replaced floor, rust proofed the frame, replaced axles, re-done just about everything in the trailer. I'm on the home stretch!

Just bought a new IntelliPower converter after I'd hooked up a brand new battery to the old Univolt and it cooked the battery. But now, I see the Negative line from the battery is the line that contains the 50Amp fuse inline. The positive, although hidden behind the cabinet now, I recall being a straight run to the 12volt fuse box - which is new as well. Damn!

So...is this correct? I was under the impression that the fuse should be on the positive line....as also appearing to be the case on the diagram for the convertor that Vintage RV provides.

BTW - Vintage Trailer and Colin Hyde have been my go to resource through this process. Thumbs up to them both.

Thanks for any insight.

Rock on....
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:00 PM   #2
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First off.. Welcome to the forums Pinchy!
Would love to see some pictures of your project.
There may be a reason for having the fuse in the negative cable for the univolt system but I cant think of what that would be. In the world of 12 volt the fusable link would be on the positive side. If the converter fails and/or shorts out you want to shut down power supply to it by means of a fuse. 50 amps is a big boy! Im not sure what size they suggest but a dead short will blow that quickly so it may be the right spec.

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Old 04-11-2011, 06:31 PM   #3
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Mine has a 50 amp fuse on both pos and neg leads. Thats the way it's shown in the manual's electrical diagrams. Wonder if its to prevent large sparks if you hook battery up backwards???...........Phil.
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Old 04-11-2011, 06:34 PM   #4
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Fuses

The fuse on the negative side is pretty common for a trailer of this age. The old univolt fuse panel had two on the positive side one where the battery is connected and one on the output of the univolt.
When I replaced the old univolt, here is the way I wired the new converter in.
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Old 04-11-2011, 06:53 PM   #5
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The rationale behind having a fuse between the negative battery terminal and the trailer frame is that it provides a safety disconnect in the event that the positive terminal is shorted to ground.

The main problem with doing that is that it confuses people who are accustomed to the more typical configuration of overcurrent protection being in the + line.
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:27 PM   #6
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That makes perfect sense. Thanks for clarifying.

Vinnie
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:14 PM   #7
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1978 Argosy 30
Hope , Maine
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Thanks you guys - that was prompt!

Will try to scavenge some pics - before and after. It had the typical problems...rotted floor, axles on their last legs, couple of prior owners....but alas we have it fixed up to a point where we maintain the vintage flavor while adding some newer touches while not totally breaking the bank.

I'll put the newer style breakers both on the pos side and the neg side so as to make sure it's all safe.

Don't want any sparks flying except for 4th - way off in the distance.

Cheers, Pinch
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:38 PM   #8
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1978 Argosy 30
Hope , Maine
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Pictures

Here are a couple of "During" - and a couple of after. I had to redo the front area as the previous owner had taken the front couch/bed out. We're just now making new curtains and covering the bed cushions. The table simply slides down on the post into a pocket for the bed. Kitchen and front windows dark as she's under a tarp...

Enjoy but don't look too closely.....
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:46 PM   #9
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1978 Argosy 30
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Bamboo floor in bath - cork throughout rest of trailer - new counter top, old was rotted - had to patch holes in tub with fiberglass backing - then re-coat with epoxy. Wanes coated the living room as original alum. panels were badly damaged via previous owner cutting into them. Original fridge, unfortunately had been taken out but all else in working order and liking the fact that the new axles will give her some more life and that I POR15'd the frame while it was all gutted.

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Old 04-11-2011, 08:54 PM   #10
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1978 Argosy 30
Hope , Maine
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:26 PM   #11
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1978 Argosy 30
Hope , Maine
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Update:
Got the electrical in tip top shape....the problem child all along???? The 50Amp Buss Fuse block ... one of the leads needed a touch of tightening on the screw due to corrosion. Could have saved me the cost of a battery, converter....etc. But alas, glad all is updated with new circuit breaker on posi side. Ready to hit the road.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 04-13-2011, 11:23 AM   #12
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Pinchy you have done a great job!!!
You definately are very handy with tools!!!
Congratulations!!
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Old 04-14-2011, 11:17 PM   #13
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Looks great! I really like the way the cork looks throughout. I noticed that a lot of storage was removed -- I assume it was done in order to open the space up? I'm just in the beginning stages of my renovation (by "beginning", I mean I acquired my 78 Argosy 30 just 4 days ago) and I'm interested in getting your feedback on the difficulties you encountered... but that's for another day. Looks great!!! You've done a fantastic job!
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Old 04-15-2011, 06:20 PM   #14
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1978 Argosy 30
Hope , Maine
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Thanks TX_A - just posted a laundry list in this post last night that covers a little more of what I did:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...osy-76214.html
But - I really didn't take much out in the way of storage at all - yet added some. The only thing that came out was the very dimensionally thin shelving area that used to act to blend in with the folding table (where my wanes coating is) I've got a chair there now. But...we added ample storage under the side wings of the dining/bed area. You can see the doors near the floor there. Since the water tank is snug up there in the front there's not a ton you can do with that center area...but then with the old beds there wasn't much up in there anyway except for a couple of pull out drawers - no? So...our useful storage - I would say - has increased a touch.

Hard to note the difficulties depending on how handy you are. Just the typical frustrations of rusted bolts, a lot of time, and the mental feeling of having everything torn to cr^&*p for a long while before it starts coming back together again. Hang in there. It was a fun process. I guess I would say the frustrating part was the way I tend to rip through stuff and rush like a bull in a china shop. If I'd been a little gentler - perhaps I could have saved myself a few fixes and hence a few $.

What shape is yours in?

Yes, the cork seems to work well in the space. Easy to install and it was on sale for something like $3.50sq foot. Needed about 85sqft. My wife didn't let me go with the shag carpet look. I really wanted the round bed that slowly spins around like Austin Powers' lair...but she nixed that too... jk.

Feel free to ask questions if you have them....I'll probably be looking in that other post more often than here since I've taken care of the electric question I had....

Pinch
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Old 04-15-2011, 07:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinchy View Post
(where my wanes coating is)
I think you mean wainscoting (rhymes with sailboating)
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Old 05-28-2011, 02:58 PM   #16
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Pinchy, I really like what you've done with the front seating area! This is exactly what I would like to do in my '74 24-footer. Any chance you have some plans you might be willing to share?

Lauren
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Old 05-29-2011, 07:56 AM   #17
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1978 Argosy 30
Hope , Maine
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Lauren,

Don't really have plans...but these pics will reveal really how simple it is.

Some bullet points:
The angle iron is self-tap screw bolted into the frame members for obvious rigidity.

There five of them - two on the flanks - two small ones on the corners (it doesn't matter if they follow "the bend" in the trailer or not) and one along the center under the main front window.

2x4's bolted to them.

Plywood flanks not screwed down to allow access to pump, H2O tank, etc.

We are still making curtains - AND - the rear backrest will be simply a mattress topper with cover that is rolled up during the day. At night, it will unroll to cover the seams the cushions create.

The table column I think I picked up at Hamilton Marine - or any search at a marine supply will render a telescoping table column. That was the most expensive of the whole plan... I think about $200 or so...

Let me know if you have questions.
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