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UncleBad · 08-07-2018, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sandollars

Well, THAT's encouraging... Business major here.... This means 1 in 5 trailers AS makes have "Made on Monday issues..."

They have MoM issues! I think we can make that a thing!

“Ah, your trailer has mom issues...”

I crack myself up.

UncleBad · 08-07-2018, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blkmagikca

While I realize that my setup is in an older AS, I have the Xantrex FS-3012 converter/charger/inverter (3000-watt). Along with 540-watts of solar it all works fine for me for boondocking.

Nice!

UncleBad · 08-09-2018, 07:59 AM

Update: Heard from Airstream of Scottsdale on the progress of my warranty work. They so far have been very proactive. The inverter problem was apparently a fuse at the battery.

A fuse. The Airstream technical support guy didn’t even have me check that (not blaming him). I recall that Uncle Bob may have mentioned a fuse but I was too busy to look up the wiring diagram and I was taking it in anyway.

A fuse. Boy am I embarrassed.

uncle_bob · 08-10-2018, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleBad

Update: Heard from Airstream of Scottsdale on the progress of my warranty work. They so far have been very proactive. The inverter problem was apparently a fuse at the battery.

A fuse. The Airstream technical support guy didn’t even have me check that (not blaming him). I recall that Uncle Bob may have mentioned a fuse but I was too busy to look up the wiring diagram and I was taking it in anyway.

A fuse. Boy am I embarrassed.

Hi

Well, there a fuse and then there's a FUSE

... That beast costs about $70 to replace and has ... wait for it ... torque specs on the lug bolts. Very much a monster device. Looking at the enclosure for it, you'd never guess what was inside ....

All that said, the bigger question is - why did it blow? When you pay that much for them, you don't expect ( or usually get ) random failures on that category of device

Bob

UncleBad · 08-10-2018, 08:20 AM

I think I recall now what happened. [emoji51]

Let’s just say that something may or may not have been plugged into an inverter outlet that may or may not have probably had too large of a thirst for electrons that worked for a split second and then all of a sudden did not work.

I guess the details are not really all that important now are they? Lesson learned under warranty.... 🤪

Sounds like this particular fuse might be something worth having in a spare parts kit. I will need to find where to purchase it.

uncle_bob · 08-10-2018, 08:41 AM

Hi

Here's a low cost version:

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-F-11...s=class+T+fuse

Indeed the prices on them seem to be all over the place. I have no experience with the cheap ones .....

Bob

UncleBad · 08-10-2018, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle_bob

Hi

Here's a low cost version:

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-F-11...s=class+T+fuse

Indeed the prices on them seem to be all over the place. I have no experience with the cheap ones .....

Bob

Thanks! Added to the list....

UncleBad · 08-20-2018, 10:05 PM

Here is the correct fuse:

Blue Sea Systems 5183 100A Fuse Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017SJOH4..._V14EBbG15NFPN

cchog · 11-17-2018, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UncleBad

Here is the correct fuse:

Blue Sea Systems 5183 100A Fuse Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017SJOH4..._V14EBbG15NFPN

Thanks for the link. I’ve searched, but can’t find out what the numbers in the bottom right mean.

The one installed is a Buss 100A 58V fuse. The bottom right numbers are 12817. Do those numbers matter if they are different?

kpm · 11-17-2018, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cchog

Thanks for the link. I’ve searched, but can’t find out what the numbers in the bottom right mean.

The one installed is a Buss 100A 58V fuse. The bottom right numbers are 12817. Do those numbers matter if they are different?

The number in the lower right appears to be manufacturer-specific, maybe a part or lot number. Blue Sea Systems uses 36310, Eaton uses 03712, Littlefuse uses 3605. I didn't find one that uses 12817 though.

I've used the Blue Sea Systems 5183 100A Terminal Fuse recommended by UncleBad. My previous one fell victim to a hair dryer

cchog · 11-17-2018, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kpm

The number in the lower right appears to be manufacturer-specific, maybe a part or lot number. Blue Sea Systems uses 36310, Eaton uses 03712, Littlefuse uses 3605. I didn't find one that uses 12817 though.

I've used the Blue Sea Systems 5183 100A Terminal Fuse recommended by UncleBad. My previous one fell victim to a hair dryer

Thanks, appreciate the information!

Omnial · 11-28-2018, 08:45 PM

Does anyone know the make/model of the stock inverter mentioned in this thread?

Thanks.

GMFL · 11-28-2018, 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Omnial

Does anyone know the make/model of the stock inverter mentioned in this thread?

Thanks.

Should be a WFCO
https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/wf-5110r/
https://www.rvautoparts.com/WF-5110H...xoCAV0QAvD_BwE

uncle_bob · 11-29-2018, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Omnial

Does anyone know the make/model of the stock inverter mentioned in this thread?

Thanks.

Hi

There are a couple of slightly different versions of the inverter. Some have a fuse on them for the AC transfer switch. Others apparently have a breaker instead. It would not surprise me to find that at least on a year to year basis, there are other minor differences as well.

The main "value" of the WIFCO stuff is that it is the rock bottom cost to OEM's. I'd go with something else if buying retail.

Bob

SPARKLE19 · 02-04-2021, 06:50 AM

Subject WFCO inverter inoperative. WFCO help line suggested some reset options after replacement of terminal fuse. Replaced fuse (100A) disconnected wiring to inverter, allowing reset, as per instructions. Inverter did not blow fuse but now displays a EO4 error code and no output. Asked about factory service. Answer was “take to RV dealer”, not going to happen! Any suggestions for a better inverter to replace the 1000 watt original?

BayouBiker · 02-04-2021, 07:11 AM

The WFCO is not a bad inverter. E04 will also display if the battery voltage is low or the battery connections are poor. I would check that one more time and if still no luck replace the unit as planned. Perhaps other will have suggestions for an improved inverter WFCO is all I have ever experienced.

uncle_bob · 02-05-2021, 07:02 AM

Hi

If you are headed off to replace the inverter, there are *lots* of alternatives. One alternative is to go with a combo inverter plus converter / charger. Most of us get into this when replacing a converter / charger. The advantage of putting both "in one box" is that it may take up a bit less space. It will be slightly less wiring intensive.

The Victron combos are not cheap by any standard. They do work very well. The Multi 2000 and Multi 3000 are commonly used.

https://shop.pkys.com/12-Volt-DC-Inv...rs-_c_865.html

The only reason to go with the 2000 is that it is a bit smaller and thus easier to fit here or there.

Would I go to something this exotic if Lithiums were not part of the future plans? Probably not.

Bob

lewster · 02-05-2021, 07:10 AM

I use the Victron 12/3000/120 inverter/charger almost exclusively. It produces a constant 2400 watts of power and is usually connected directly into your breaker panel thru a new master breaker. They work extremely well and eliminate the need for a separate set of 'Inverter Only' recepticles.

BT2513 · 02-20-2021, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster

I use the Victron 12/3000/120 inverter/charger almost exclusively. It produces a constant 2400 watts of power and is usually connected directly into your breaker panel thru a new master breaker. They work extremely well and eliminate the need for a separate set of 'Inverter Only' recepticles.

Can you describe the wiring you did here? I don't necessarily need the MP 3000 to power the AC and/or the microwave but it might be nice to do. Eventually.

For now, I'm concerned about accidentally turning them on. I suppose I could flip the breakers when I know I don't want to use them but its still a concern. There is also an aux plug on the Multiplus that passes through 120v I believe - would be nice to run this to the AC and microwave but I don't want to really have to disassemble or rewire to much of the panel on a brand new AS.

Does the Multiplus receive its power from the inverter breaker on the main panel or straight from the shore power connection?

uncle_bob · 02-21-2021, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BT2513

Can you describe the wiring you did here? I don't necessarily need the MP 3000 to power the AC and/or the microwave but it might be nice to do. Eventually.

For now, I'm concerned about accidentally turning them on. I suppose I could flip the breakers when I know I don't want to use them but its still a concern. There is also an aux plug on the Multiplus that passes through 120v I believe - would be nice to run this to the AC and microwave but I don't want to really have to disassemble or rewire to much of the panel on a brand new AS.

Does the Multiplus receive its power from the inverter breaker on the main panel or straight from the shore power connection?

Hi

All inverter chargers wire in a similar fashion:

1) The old wires that went to the old charger go to the AC input on the new box.

2) The old wires that went from the old inverter to the inverter powered outlets go to the AC output of the new box.

3) The old wires that went from the old inverter to the batteries move to the DC port on the new box. They would be upgraded if the new box is more powerful than the old box.

That's pretty much all you do. Same wires to the same place.

On the Victron Multi's, you can get a nice control panel that wires in to them. It will show you what's going on and let you manually control their function. We have our control panel mounted in the vicinity of the kitchen sink.

Bob