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Old 01-20-2015, 03:58 PM   #1
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1966 Overlander Fuse Box Diagram

I'll have a follow up question related to this post, but in my research on making a conversion from Univolt to a Progressive Dynamics Converter, I didn't see any good diagrams of the fusebox connections.

So here is one that shows what everything is on this particular model.

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Old 01-20-2015, 04:26 PM   #2
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I am making switch from the Univolt to the Progressive Dynamics Converter and also adding the 12vDC fusebox purchased at Vintage Trailer Supply.
(As you read, please make these assumptions - I know the wiring in the pics is bad, they will be replaced. And I have accurately installed the converter to the 110v shore power breakerbox via a new receptacle. The receptacle, the converter, the battery and the fuse panel will all be grounded to the trailer. I know that the only connection to the TV wiring circuits is the blue wire.)

As others have pointed out - the old Univolt had one white (-) terminal and two positive (+) terminals - one labeled Battery which is a blue wire. This is the "charge" line. The other labeled Load which is a red wire.
As you'll notice on the included fusebox wiring image I've attached above that there is only one + terminal out of the PD. I too have the PD9245 model which has only one + terminal.

Firstly - did I get the wrong converter, since the 45amp 9245 only has one terminal, while the others in that family seem to have more than one +?

My question(s):
1) Should I just replicate the original set up - including the 4-bus fuses - and attach the new fuse box to the existing fusebox?
1a) If I replicate the original, FROM the new converter, do I connect the original Red load, the original Blue Battery, or combine both Red and Blue out of the converter and into their respective posts on the old box?

2) If I (instead of using the original diagram and fusebox), decide to follow the fusebox wiring included from vintage supply included below, then where in that diagram do I attach the blue charge line that is in the wall from the converter? And where do I attach the blue line from the TV?
2a) Put another way, if I only have one line coming out from the converter, how do I both charge the battery and supply 12v power when connected to shore?

Any help in sorting this out will be appreciated.
Jitney

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Old 01-20-2015, 05:07 PM   #3
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1966 Overlander Fuse Box Diagram

Referring to your notes 2 and 2a:
one of the blue charge lines is from the battery.
It will connect to the top of the fuse panel (red arrow ). Any of the three terminals. NOTE the circuit breaker (or fuse) in the wire going to the battery.
The second blue wire will go to one of the remaining top (red arrow) terminals on the fuse panel.
The converter will attach to the remaining (red arrow) terminal as shown in the drawing.
All three of the (red arrow) terminals on the top of the drawing are connected to a buss bar which supplies power to one side of all of the fuses.


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Old 01-21-2015, 08:54 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
one of the blue charge lines is from the battery.
Are you sure about that? One of the blue wires comes FROM the old univolt and connects TO the battery in the photo I've included. The other blue wire comes from the TV battery.

What I'm reading into your comment is that the three DC input terminals on top - the three red arrows point to the bus - should connect to the red wire from the converter, the blue TV battery and the blue charge line. The other end of the blue charge line is coming directly from the battery?

Not dumb, just confused.
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Old 01-21-2015, 12:57 PM   #5
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1966 Overlander Fuse Box Diagram

The battery shown in the drawing is the house (trailer) battery.
In order for the converter to charge said battery it must be connected to the converter red + wire. Via the buss. The converter will also supply power to the trailer. Via the buss.
The charge line must be connected to the buss in order that the TV will charge the house battery when connected and running.
In order for the house battery to provide power to the trailer it must be connected to the fuse panel via the buss.



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Old 01-21-2015, 03:17 PM   #6
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Eureka

Thank you for the clarification. I also reached out to Steve at Vintage Trailer and he gave me this little insight that got me over the hump. I was really focusing too much on a wire-for-wire swap out. Here's what Steve wrote that made sense to me.
To get this started, I encourage you to disregard and eliminate the battery from your thinking. Unlike the old Univolt that relied on the battery for voltage regulation, the new converters do not. So to begin your thinking, imagine a system without a house battery. You will attach the battery at the very end...directly to the fuse box and not directly to the converter.

All sources of 12v power go to the positive lugs (common buss) on the fuse box. Your converter, your solar, your tow line all go to the positive lugs.

So now with that thinking, I understand what goes where and I realize the shortcomings of the standard fusebox drawing as it applies to MY situation. (Your situation may be different.)
To that end, I have made my own fusebox diagram that (I humbly think) better illustrates exactly how to install the new converter and new 9 fusebus into this 1966 Overlander.

Here is my new drawing. I open the floor to comments and suggestions.
Thanks,
JitneyBead
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:03 PM   #7
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You are correct. The picture is worth a thousand words. Don't forget to fuse the battery positive lead.


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Old 03-02-2015, 01:35 PM   #8
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Bus wires - 4 screws but 5 wires ?

Great post on the fuse panel . It's really helped me a lot !!! Mine is just about the same lay out as yours.
I was wondering what to do with the WHITE ground wires - On the new Fuse Box there's only 4 connections that have screws - then 2 more without screws BUT I have 5 WHITE wires that need to connect there ?
3 12 volt
1 converter
1 battery = 5 and there's only 4 screw terminals and the 2 outer holes ( not sure what those are for - as there are no screws )
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:00 PM   #9
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I'll post a updated pic of the finished install, but basically you have to stuff all of the ground/neg into the limited four slots. The outer holes as you refer to them are not actually terminals, they are the rivet holes that attach the groundbank to the fusebox unit.

It doesn't matter really how you configure them, but I think I put the three white 12v circuit grounds into the same hole. Which left me three ground terminals for the new converter, the battery and the trailer ground.

I'll post updated picture later, I actually used the existing fuse box with the new box screwed inside of it.
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:08 PM   #10
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Excellent ..Wasn't sure if it was ok to double or triple up on those wires.. But now I know

Would love to see your pictures !!

THANKS.
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Old 03-02-2015, 04:47 PM   #11
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Final panel pics

I'm finally getting around to post pics of my install from this project.

In short, I decided to repurpose the existing fuse panel because that was easier than relocating a new panel. I drilled out the rivets of the old fuse bus on the panel, used tin snips to remove some materials, and then screwed in the new fuse bus to the old panel.

From there it was just a matter of make sure the wires were routed to the right terminals and would not rub.

Let me know if you have any questions.

OH, and the install went fine with the new converter: lights go on, battery charges, etc. Should last many miles.

JitneyBead
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Old 03-02-2015, 09:13 PM   #12
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What a great idea to use the old panel as a base ( I'm going to borrow that
Is this the correct kill switch to disconnect the batteries when needed ? I'm not sure exactly what you have in the top left of your diagram.

Where did you mount your charger and batteries ?

THANKS AGAIN
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Old 03-03-2015, 01:24 PM   #13
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I didn't install any kind of kill switch at the batteries. Seems unnecessary since the charger converter should monitor for overcharging. Any work I need to do on the batteries, I'll just unplug the converter from the outlet and disconnect the negative post.

As for locations, I put the charger converter in the same location as the univolt. The battery is a bit unsorted because I need to build a sturdy base to the right of the toilet. I have it just sitting there for the time being but need a secure base before rolling on the road.

Probably not the answer you wanted but that's where I am.
Jitney
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Old 03-03-2015, 01:52 PM   #14
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Ok cool , I thought maybe that's what you had in the top left of your diagram. I was wanting a switch to shut everything down in case a light or something was left on by mistake. All Good !! Time to crawl into the old Univolt hole
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