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Old 03-03-2015, 07:40 PM   #15
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1986 34' Limited
1966 24' Tradewind
Conifer , Colorado
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It appears you folks did the same project I did. I must say I was rather disappointed in the fuse panel I purchased. It was too small for the wire size of a 12v, 30 amp system. That 4 post ground buss is just not big enough. And I found the clamp screws kinda cheap. I couldn't get them tight enough without stripping out the drive square. The whole thing works, it just was not as robust as I wanted.

I tried my patience getting all the wiring stuffed in there.

David
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Old 03-03-2015, 11:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocker66 View Post
Ok cool , I thought maybe that's what you had in the top left of your diagram. I was wanting a switch to shut everything down in case a light or something was left on by mistake. All Good !! Time to crawl into the old Univolt hole
Ahhh... I see what you mean. That is the hard circuit breaker, not a cut off switch.
It is installed between the battery and the fuse box (on the positive side) within 18inches of the battery terminal. You can get them at practically any RV store or automotive supply. Here is one from vintagetrailer
12V Circuit Breaker 50A
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:10 PM   #17
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Hi David,

I can see what you mean by the wire gauge being beefier than the panel is ideal for. We've yet to find a 12v panel beefier, though. If you find something, let us know. As you noted, it can be made to work and at this point I believe it is the best option available. We've looked at a couple marine style fuse boxes but they are more compact and we find that they don't have enough lugs on the positive bus.

As for the ground bus.... a lot of people do not run all their load grounds back. Airstreams were usually two-wire systems and sometimes one-wire systems. For people who have more circuits than can be accommodated in this box, we offer this bus bar add-on.
DC Buss Bar

Thanks for you business and let me know if you have additional suggestions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
It appears you folks did the same project I did. I must say I was rather disappointed in the fuse panel I purchased. It was too small for the wire size of a 12v, 30 amp system. That 4 post ground buss is just not big enough. And I found the clamp screws kinda cheap. I couldn't get them tight enough without stripping out the drive square. The whole thing works, it just was not as robust as I wanted.

I tried my patience getting all the wiring stuffed in there.

David
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Old 03-11-2015, 06:17 AM   #18
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Hi Steve, my goodness, I didn't expect to see you here. I'm embarrassed I was griping about my fuse panel. Some of my difficulty stemmed from my decision to mount my fuse panel high on the wall close to the 115v breaker box. I wanted my electrical in one place, and in the medicine cabinet in my Trade Wind. That gave me easy access, and allowed more outside storage room in the back of the trailer.

Heck, you folks could design and fabricate your own fuse panel! Vintage has provided so many "old Airstream" parts that fit perfectly. There is a lot of them in my 66 Trade Wind project and I have the receipts to prove it! I would like a fuse panel with about 2" more width, and a size bigger buss bar with at least 10-32 screws and maybe consider 1/4-20.

Airstream fabricated their own fuse panel back in 66. It took up a lot of room, but there was a lot of room to run the wires.

Thanks for your reply,

David
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Old 03-16-2015, 09:16 AM   #19
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Thumbs up New Custom Fuse Box

David... We're all learning. Vintage Trailer Supply has only succeeded because of smart, kind and assertive customers like yourself.

I like your idea of developing a new panel. We'd have some safety certification issues to work through....not something I take lightly. But I'll add it to the pipeline!
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