12V Interstate Batteries to 2 Lifeline 6V AGM

[MarkJUrban]

Hank, nice details in your post. It will come in handy. Luckily My battery box is a little bigger, and it won't require any modifications.

Thanks!

[lewster]

Originally Posted by MarkJUrban

Hey guys, thanks for the info.

I didn't even think about the battery cables. Batteries are still in the house...

Below is he response from bestconverter.com when I asked about the iota brand.

"Hi Mark,
The Boondocker is a 4 stage smart charger and much better charge profile than the Parallax single stage. The Iota is a different brand similar to the Boondocker but I would use the Boondocker. Great charge profile, less money and better warranty. Thanks!


Randy
BestConverter"

I will give the boondocker a try unless someone can think of a reason not to.

Mark

C-H-I-N-A !!!

[HD Pilot]

Originally Posted by openroad118

I used this cable from Amazon. Top notch!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Originally Posted by DaveP

Well, I guess openroad and I are in agreement on a good cable for you to use!

Not sure I follow the recommendation of buying 20' of cables(minimum) when I only need 1 12" cable for the series connection...

Originally Posted by DaveP

I got my cable from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Gauge-Premium...+welding+cable.

I happen to know the guys at EWCS and they make good products. The (welding) cable is very flexible and easy to use. I used Ancor galvanized lugs (also from Amazon).

BTW, depending on the length of the cable runs, you may need to go to 3/0 or 4/0 cable.

Lew Farber said that 2/0 is good for the Lifeline GPL-4CT and 4/0 for the GPL-6CT, so I was planning on the 2/0, again only need maybe 12".

Originally Posted by DaveP

Looks like Hammer Marine Supply in Decatur could make them for you. https://hammermarine.com/product-category/wiring-looms/

Dang, right in my backyard! Need to drop by that place.

[DaveP]

It is hard to find companies selling a foot of cable (I just meant that EWCS is a good company with good products). This was a a deal for me (on Amazon) since I was doing a bigger install. Since you have a local company in Decatur that can do the build, that is a better option for you (no tools/no minimum material buys/no installation training for you). You still need to look at your whole set-up. I would replace the existing cables. Look closely at the cable lengths and cable size tables. If you have the old car battery style terminations, get rid of them and use Ancor lug terminals. Just my advice. YMMV.

[Kay0]

What was your newby mistake that fried your Interstate batteries? I have a 19' on order and will be adding a 200W solar package, the battery upgrade is not included. I just want to avoid problems.

[MarkJUrban]

Update.

The 2 Lifeline 6v AGM batteries fit in the existing battery box with no modifications. I was able to utilize the existing cables by cutting off the ends and crimping new terminals. I borrowed a hand hydraulic crimper from a local auto service shop.

I ended up going with the boondocker (4 stage converter) from bestconverters.com. Took about two hours to install.

As far as my rookie mistakes. I often ran my batteries below safe levels. On many three day weekends, toward the end, the furnace would end up going out due to low power at night. I used a 2000 Honda generator to charge the batteries for several hours during the day, but with the original charger it would charge too slow, and never fully recharge. From my understanding the 4 stage converter will charge the batteries faster. How long will a full charge take? No idea yet...

Also, I would leave the trailer plugged in to power for several weeks at a time. Which would overcharge the battery. From my understanding the 4 stage will prevent overcharging.

I should now have a good setup for my boondocking three day weekends.

[HD Pilot]

Hey Mark, thanks for the update! What did you use for the series battery connector?

[MarkJUrban]

Do you mean the cable? I used the the cable which was used on the interstates. There was a black and red cable that tied them together. I only needed 1. The connectors on the cables were the correct size. I will post a pic when I get home.

[HD Pilot]

Originally Posted by MarkJUrban

Do you mean the cable? I used the the cable which was used on the interstates. There was a black and red cable that tied them together. I only needed 1. The connectors on the cables were the correct size. I will post a pic when I get home.

The Interstates have 2 "jumper" cables that run + to +, and - to - that are only 6 AWG. The Lifelines need one series cable that run + to -, but should be a much bigger cable - Lewster was recommending a 2/0 cable for the GPL-4CT batteries. That is the cable I was asking about.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by HD Pilot

The Interstates have 2 "jumper" cables that run + to +, and - to - that are only 6 AWG. The Lifelines need one series cable that run + to -, but should be a much bigger cable - Lewster was recommending a 2/0 cable for the GPL-4CT batteries. That is the cable I was asking about.

Remember that in a series battery connection, the cable between the #1 positive terminal and the #2 negative terminal is essentially an extension of the internal bus bars connecting the plates. It must be able to safely carry the entire battery load rating.

It also depends on which battery capacity rating you will be using. A Lifeline GPL-4CT is rated at 220 amp/hours of capacity, but is also rated for 1095 CCA at 68ºF (yes, you CAN use deep cycle batteries for starting use). I will use nothing less than 2/0 for battery sizes up to the 200 amp range, and 4/0 above that. This includes for all series AND parallel connections.

[Kay0]

Thank you! The solar package being installed has a controller to prevent over charging. This should avoid the deep discharge during boondocking weekends. The circuit diagrams I have from Airstream on the solar wiring do not show the converter. The wiring from the solar controller is directly to the battery bus bar and the ground bus. I'll have to keep my eye on the charging cycle. I'll note for future reference the information you have provided on the converter.

[MarkJUrban]

Ahh... I see, I need a bigger cable. Thanks again!

[openroad118]

What's the point of just increasing the jumper cable size when all other cables from the batts are 4 and 6 AWG? Weak links are these. Since my new 2000W inverter required 2/0, I ripped EVERYTHING out and put in 2/0, hence my recommending Amazon for welding cable for the longer lengths I needed. Now I'm running 400Watts of solar into 4- 6V AGM's all tied together with the new cable. Very Yummy!

[lewster]

Originally Posted by openroad118

What's the point of just increasing the jumper cable size when all other cables from the batts are 4 and 6 AWG? Weak links are these. Since my new 2000W inverter required 2/0, I ripped EVERYTHING out and put in 2/0, hence my recommending Amazon for welding cable for the longer lengths I needed. Now I'm running 400Watts of solar into 4- 6V AGM's all tied together with the new cable. Very Yummy!

Read post #30 above.

Airstream has a habit of minimal cable sizing for their inverter cables as well as their battery interconnects. They regularly use 4AWG as their inverter cable for the WFCO 1000 watt units that they install on the trailers that they typically use for runs over 10 feet. I would use nothing less than 2AWG for this purpose and more likely 1/0AWG, as they put in the Interstate Sprinter conversion vans.

While the 6AWG main battery feeds are 'OK' as they terminate into a 50 amp auto-reset DC breaker, I would still use 4AWG for that run.

Nothing wrong with using 2/0AWG main feeds and branching from that as required by the loads.

[carl2591]

what solar charge controller did you use and did you get a battery meter like the bogart TM2030? They make a good Charge controller that hooks up with the meter for best of both worlds on smaller, less than 600W 12v panels, systems.

Originally Posted by OvertheHills

Mark, my wife and I recently purchased a 2017 and upgraded to two 6v deep cycle flooded batteries w 200 watts of solar (very nice for dry camping). In addition I ordered a progressive dynamics PD4655v on line. This converter is multistage and will automatically reduce the charge as the batteries reach their maximum charge. While I am not an electrician, I was able to install install it without any problems. Very straight forward.

-Overthehills

[Eonicks]

Originally Posted by MarkJUrban

Ahh... I see, I need a bigger cable. Thanks again!

Attachment 282346

I was able to order a custom 12inch 2/0 cable with installed lugs and heat shrink from batteryguys.com for $15. Seemed like a reasonable price.

[Snowy]

Originally Posted by Eonicks

I was able to order a custom 12inch 2/0 cable with installed lugs and heat shrink from batteryguys.com for $15. Seemed like a reasonable price.

You always pay a premium for custom lengths preassembled but it's not a terrible price imo.

For my project, which used some 2/0, it worked out at $2.90 a foot for cable plus $1 per lug. Add good shrink wrap and you are close to $6 for pure parts for you length. I purchased 20 feet of cable and 15 lugs.

Of course you will need a lug crimp tool, $20, so if you just need 1-2 short cables then you are better off buying preassembled.

[Wanna EB]

Thanks for posting....how is the 6 volt configuration performing?

[ATownTX]

For anyone who has the GP1-4CT, do they fit completely in the tray in the battery box?

So far I can't get them to go down, they are sort of cocked to one side. I can close the battery box door, so no issues there. Just wondering if I am missing something.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by ATownTX

For anyone who has the GP1-4CT, do they fit completely in the tray in the battery box?

So far I can't get them to go down, they are sort of cocked to one side. I can close the battery box door, so no issues there. Just wondering if I am missing something.

I almost always remove the lower tray when installing Lifeline GPL series golf cart batteries. There really is no need for the tray if you properly secure the batteries with the screw rod.

I also use a larger aluminum plate between the screw knob and the batteries for more contact area.