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Old 03-28-2017, 09:02 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by MarkJUrban View Post
Do you mean the cable? I used the the cable which was used on the interstates. There was a black and red cable that tied them together. I only needed 1. The connectors on the cables were the correct size. I will post a pic when I get home.
The Interstates have 2 "jumper" cables that run + to +, and - to - that are only 6 AWG. The Lifelines need one series cable that run + to -, but should be a much bigger cable - Lewster was recommending a 2/0 cable for the GPL-4CT batteries. That is the cable I was asking about.
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Old 03-29-2017, 06:45 AM   #30
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The Interstates have 2 "jumper" cables that run + to +, and - to - that are only 6 AWG. The Lifelines need one series cable that run + to -, but should be a much bigger cable - Lewster was recommending a 2/0 cable for the GPL-4CT batteries. That is the cable I was asking about.
Remember that in a series battery connection, the cable between the #1 positive terminal and the #2 negative terminal is essentially an extension of the internal bus bars connecting the plates. It must be able to safely carry the entire battery load rating.

It also depends on which battery capacity rating you will be using. A Lifeline GPL-4CT is rated at 220 amp/hours of capacity, but is also rated for 1095 CCA at 68F (yes, you CAN use deep cycle batteries for starting use). I will use nothing less than 2/0 for battery sizes up to the 200 amp range, and 4/0 above that. This includes for all series AND parallel connections.
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Old 03-29-2017, 09:39 AM   #31
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Thank you! The solar package being installed has a controller to prevent over charging. This should avoid the deep discharge during boondocking weekends. The circuit diagrams I have from Airstream on the solar wiring do not show the converter. The wiring from the solar controller is directly to the battery bus bar and the ground bus. I'll have to keep my eye on the charging cycle. I'll note for future reference the information you have provided on the converter.
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Old 03-29-2017, 05:00 PM   #32
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Ahh... I see, I need a bigger cable. Thanks again!

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Old 03-30-2017, 03:32 AM   #33
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What's the point of just increasing the jumper cable size when all other cables from the batts are 4 and 6 AWG? Weak links are these. Since my new 2000W inverter required 2/0, I ripped EVERYTHING out and put in 2/0, hence my recommending Amazon for welding cable for the longer lengths I needed. Now I'm running 400Watts of solar into 4- 6V AGM's all tied together with the new cable. Very Yummy!
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Old 03-30-2017, 06:57 AM   #34
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What's the point of just increasing the jumper cable size when all other cables from the batts are 4 and 6 AWG? Weak links are these. Since my new 2000W inverter required 2/0, I ripped EVERYTHING out and put in 2/0, hence my recommending Amazon for welding cable for the longer lengths I needed. Now I'm running 400Watts of solar into 4- 6V AGM's all tied together with the new cable. Very Yummy!
Read post #30 above.

Airstream has a habit of minimal cable sizing for their inverter cables as well as their battery interconnects. They regularly use 4AWG as their inverter cable for the WFCO 1000 watt units that they install on the trailers that they typically use for runs over 10 feet. I would use nothing less than 2AWG for this purpose and more likely 1/0AWG, as they put in the Interstate Sprinter conversion vans.

While the 6AWG main battery feeds are 'OK' as they terminate into a 50 amp auto-reset DC breaker, I would still use 4AWG for that run.

Nothing wrong with using 2/0AWG main feeds and branching from that as required by the loads.
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Old 04-06-2017, 07:07 AM   #35
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what solar charge controller did you use and did you get a battery meter like the bogart TM2030? They make a good Charge controller that hooks up with the meter for best of both worlds on smaller, less than 600W 12v panels, systems.

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Mark, my wife and I recently purchased a 2017 and upgraded to two 6v deep cycle flooded batteries w 200 watts of solar (very nice for dry camping). In addition I ordered a progressive dynamics PD4655v on line. This converter is multistage and will automatically reduce the charge as the batteries reach their maximum charge. While I am not an electrician, I was able to install install it without any problems. Very straight forward.

-Overthehills
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Old 04-11-2017, 05:27 PM   #36
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Ahh... I see, I need a bigger cable. Thanks again!

Attachment 282346
I was able to order a custom 12inch 2/0 cable with installed lugs and heat shrink from batteryguys.com for $15. Seemed like a reasonable price.
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Old 04-11-2017, 09:21 PM   #37
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I was able to order a custom 12inch 2/0 cable with installed lugs and heat shrink from batteryguys.com for $15. Seemed like a reasonable price.

You always pay a premium for custom lengths preassembled but it's not a terrible price imo.

For my project, which used some 2/0, it worked out at $2.90 a foot for cable plus $1 per lug. Add good shrink wrap and you are close to $6 for pure parts for you length. I purchased 20 feet of cable and 15 lugs.

Of course you will need a lug crimp tool, $20, so if you just need 1-2 short cables then you are better off buying preassembled.
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:28 PM   #38
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Thanks for posting....how is the 6 volt configuration performing?
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Old 04-28-2017, 02:41 PM   #39
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For anyone who has the GP1-4CT, do they fit completely in the tray in the battery box?

So far I can't get them to go down, they are sort of cocked to one side. I can close the battery box door, so no issues there. Just wondering if I am missing something.
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Old 04-28-2017, 06:51 PM   #40
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For anyone who has the GP1-4CT, do they fit completely in the tray in the battery box?

So far I can't get them to go down, they are sort of cocked to one side. I can close the battery box door, so no issues there. Just wondering if I am missing something.
I almost always remove the lower tray when installing Lifeline GPL series golf cart batteries. There really is no need for the tray if you properly secure the batteries with the screw rod.

I also use a larger aluminum plate between the screw knob and the batteries for more contact area.
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Old 04-28-2017, 07:46 PM   #41
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Got it. thanks, Lewster!!



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I almost always remove the lower tray when installing Lifeline GPL series golf cart batteries. There really is no need for the tray if you properly secure the batteries with the screw rod.

I also use a larger aluminum plate between the screw knob and the batteries for more contact area.
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Old 05-29-2017, 10:01 AM   #42
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Ok, 4 months later... I haven't touched the airstream since this project was completed. My wife is expecting and we are in lockdown this spring.

Anyway... batteries are now dead (store mode). Which I expected. In hindsight I should have unhooked the terminals. However, I'm glad they are dead. I can now test out the new charger...

But when I plug in shore power(120)... nothing, not even direct power. When I flip to (use mode) no orange ight And, it didn't charge the batteries. I'm glad I didn't go anywhere without testing.

So now I am in trouble shooting mode. Any thoughts on where to begin?
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