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Old 11-18-2010, 01:06 PM   #29
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Thanks for the info Randy, that clarified a lot.

This is a paraphrase of what I read on one of the solar power sites.

Desulfation employing the method of raising the voltage is effective for recent sulfate deposits, but not very effective for removing older sulfate deposits. Desulfation using ultrasonic pulses (commonly 88KHz) to break up crystalline sulfate deposits is very effective in remover olde deposits and restoring old batteries. The most effective pulsed desulphaters sweep the frequency of the ultrasonic pulses through the resonant frequencies of the various types of crystallized sulfates.

This makes sense to me because the sulfates will initially form a soft deposit that will take some (I haven't research how much)time to crystallize.

So it only seems logical to me to have both systems active to fully extend the life a battery in a system such as a travel trailer where the use/charge cycle fluctuates greatly over time.

Regards,

Ken

Ken,

My reasoning for the purchase exactly! Thanks
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:27 PM   #30
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Randy , thanks for adding the additional information , it helps the understanding .
Refering to the Iota quote , it says "..dissolving any sulfate layer...", not helps prevent sulfate . Perhaps Iota needs to revise their literature.
Here is a quote I stole from a battery site on the web - Battery Tutorial

"The Lead Acid battery is made up of plates, lead, and lead oxide (various other elements are used to change density, hardness, porosity, etc.) with a 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water solution. This solution is called electrolyte, which causes a chemical reaction that produce electrons. When you test a battery with a hydrometer, you are measuring the amount of sulfuric acid in the electrolyte. If your reading is low, that means the chemistry that makes electrons is lacking. So where did the sulfur go? It is resting on the battery plates and when you recharge the battery, the sulfur returns to the electrolyte."

Sulfation is a normal and necessary process in a lead acid battery.

The problem occurs when the sulfates are allowed to reside on the plates to the point that they can crystallize, This makes the sulfur much harder to recover and, thus the battery is much harder to charge. This happens when a fully or partially discharged battery is not fully recharged in a timely matter.

If Sulfation was "prevented", the battery would not operate.
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Old 11-18-2010, 02:44 PM   #31
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As usual, it seems that terminologies even within the"expert" ranks seem to lack clarity.
ie: in the chart in my above post from Interstate, they refer to the equalization charge and the absorbtion charge to be one and the same....others refer to the absorbtion charge as the middle of the 3 phases of a 3 stage charger with the equalization charge as an additional, occasional high voltage charge at a predetermined low amperage rating. Still, others differ from either of these definitions.

In my readings, collectively taken, I think that most consider a "sulfated" battery, not as one which is healthy and just low on charge level (no crystals), but rather one which has accumulated hardened sulfates which will not return to solution when charged. They refer to the material in this CONDITION as "sulfation" (a noun), or the battery is "sulfated".

In deed, the normal process of the transfer of sulfur from electrolyte to plate as a PROCESS is also refered to as sulfation (a verb).

Just one of the many confused issues when discussing batteries.

The CONDITION were are taliking about here is hardened sulfates which can be prevented and remedied (if we are to believe claims) so the PROCESS of sulfation can proceed efficiently over a (hopefully) longer time.
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Old 03-26-2013, 01:30 AM   #32
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So the batteryminder is permanently installed as opposed to plugging it in when using shore power? If so I assume that it is turned on when you are driving down the road or plugged into shore power. I think I am asking the question correctly.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:55 PM   #33
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So the batteryminder is permanently installed as opposed to plugging it in when using shore power? If so I assume that it is turned on when you are driving down the road or plugged into shore power. I think I am asking the question correctly.
Yes, it is a non-powered version of just the desulfater portion of the traditional BatteryMinder charger/maintainers. It turns on anytime a charge voltage is present. ie, while driving and on shore power or solar charging. I'll see if I can find the model on their site for you.
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Old 03-26-2013, 03:59 PM   #34
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Here it is:

Battery Tester, Battery Tester Desulfator, Battery Tester Mainteiner
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:39 PM   #35
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Rich,
I have a 2012 classic with the Parallax converter. I replaced with a new plug and play converter. I also bought new batteries and a Trimetric battery monitor. I have looked at your install on the new converter and Trimetric. I have dual batteries like yours. I am confused about what to do with the negative battery cables that connect to the shunt.My electric box is like yours before you made any improvements. I do not have solar . Can you advise
me ? I printed your before and after pics,
Robert
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:49 PM   #36
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First disregard the red insulation. I had two marine battery cables laying around so I used them. You can see they are labeled "neg" . That said, remove both negative battery cables from the negative buss in your electrical center and attach them to the proper side of the shunt. Procure two lengths of cable of the same gauge (8 ga, iirc) and attach them to the other side of the shunt and insert them into the same lugs in the negative buss from which the originals were taken.
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