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Old 06-27-2017, 06:27 PM   #15
Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
Pleasanton , California
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Personally I would replace the bad one with a new one from the same manufacturer and see how it goes. Batteries in parallel don't need to have exactly the same capacity. If the "good" one seems to work but doesn't have as much capacity as a brand new one, who cares. If the sum of the capacities of both batteries meets your needs then Bob's your Uncle.

Don't leave your single-stage converter connected for extended periods.

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2015 30' Classic, "Chez Nu"
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Old 06-27-2017, 06:32 PM   #16
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2007 28' International CCD
Springfield , Missouri
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1 of 2 batteries is very hot!

Optima batteries are great as long as they are maintained with a 10 amp charger any more and they are toast prematurely....

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Old 06-28-2017, 09:03 AM   #17
Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Originally Posted by Al and Missy View Post
You left out the part about "1 amp current limit". The stock converter doesn't limit current. It can't because it hss to power the 12V loads.


Which is a limitation of any converter that does not do full battery isolation. The typically touted 2,3,4 stage converters have exactly the same problem. Once you get to float, there isn't going to be any current into the batteries.

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Old 06-28-2017, 09:55 AM   #18
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Fenton , Missouri
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Not surprised that both tested bad. The fact remains that with a single stage charger you stayed connected for 30 days. As noted by the manufacturer of those batteries, 6-12 hours is what it takes to reach full charge. I think you really need to look at how you use your trailer and then determine what kind of replacement battery makes the most sense.

For me we always camp at sites with electrical power and we also carry a propane powered generator for power backup. Our only real use of the battery might be for operation of the hitch jack on departure and arrival and the maintaining of the fridge electronics when we are traveling and are running on gas. In that mode spending $600-$700 dollars on a pair of AGM batteries really isn't cost affective and lead acid with a cost of $100 each is perfectly acceptable.

Now if you rely a lot upon batteries, then AGM may be a great solution, the key then is treating those batteries to proper charging methods. If you can't manually adhere to minimizing the charge times, then it would make good monetary sense to change your charging system in your Airstream to a multi-stage charger.

I'm sure there are lot of folks here on the forum who can give you good recommendations of multi-stage chargers that will work with your Classic.

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Old 06-28-2017, 09:56 AM   #19
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Greenwood , Mississippi
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...or upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics "smart" 3- or 4-stage converter/charger...
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:26 PM   #20
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South of the river , Minnesota
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Originally Posted by rickybobby View Post
Update...both batteries tested bad at one store. That store did not carry optima batteries so I went to a store that specializes in batteries and they retested. The batteries then tested good.

With that I cleaned all their terminals and made sure all connections were correct and hooked them back up and plugged into 110. HOWEVER, I switched the position of the batteries. It only took about 4 hours and the original battery that was hot, got hot again! So I think that is truly a bad battery...thoughts?

At this point I think I will be buying batteries after all. If anyone has any future ideas I would still like to hear them.

You have a shorted cell on the bad battery. It's not unusual.

Just replace the bad one and leave the other one in service. Despite the conventional wisdom to the contrary, it will work fine.
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:21 AM   #21
Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
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Your batteries have *charger disease* it has absolutely nothing at all to do with the batteries or your actions. It is entirely caused by your infected charger. This little known fact of life is only known to the few.

Since you didn't know about this disease, the problem with your batteries is now *not your fault*. Doesn't that feel much better? You can now pass this knowledge on to others so they will know it's *not their fault*.

This disease can be fixed by discarding your infected batteries and using the BOB CHARGER. It uses a secret set of charge algorithms to prevent *charger disease*. It is a 397 stage charger. It has been *proven* by the Charger Disease Institute to cure the problem. Testing at the institute has demonstrated a 9,000% typical increase in battery capacity. The institute's methods are of course kept secret to prevent the spread of *charger disease* ....


Batteries die, they always have died. People look for a magic cure. "Blame the charger" has been an advertising ploy for at least 80 years. It works to some degree because defective batteries occur randomly. It fails when people's actions actually cause the failure and they continue to repeat those actions. People rarely admit what happened in that case. Battery charging is actually pretty simple stuff. Damaging a lead acid battery by running it flat is relatively easy. Like dropping a glass on concrete, it will not later repair it's self. It may not be destroyed by the event, but the "cracks" are there ....

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Old 06-29-2017, 08:00 AM   #22
Rivet Master
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
. . .
. . . but the "cracks" are there ....

Not sure if the OP newcomer with 4 posts will "get" your sarcasm and humor, as well-intentioned as it might have been IMO.

I would advise replacing the batteries and the charger/converter. In the larger scheme of matters Airstream, the cost will be a small part of the overall value of the investment, and will provide great peace of mind for many years to come.


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