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Old 02-02-2012, 05:06 PM   #15
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I am wondering what would happen to the AC if it is underpowered. Would the start capacitor go bad? Or would the entire AC get fried?


Gary
It will usually result in heating the motor, which can eventually damage insulation, windings, bearings, etc.

I think the difference of opinion about whether the 2400i is suitable comes from how people look at things. The 2400 works if you do everything right and manage your power usage, but there's less margin for error. A pair of 2000s in a parallel setup will offer lots of margin for error, so if you run the microwave while the AC is on and the batteries are charging and the refrigerator is on 120v you'll get away with it more often.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:45 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Castaway View Post
I am wondering what would happen to the AC if it is underpowered. Would the start capacitor go bad? Or would the entire AC get fried?


Gary
Hi, I don't think the operation of an RV air conditioner is much different than a house type, portable, or window air conditioner; But when we had a brown out at our house, with only 88 volts from my wall socket, my air conditioners would not cycle back on. The fan stayed on, but the compressor wouldn't kick on. At that point, it was useless to run them so I turned them off. No damage was done to them. I still use them when it gets hot here, which isn't that often. [my experience]
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:07 PM   #17
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The demo at the RV show that sold me on this unit showed it boosting up to 4400 watts (22 x 200 watt bulbs) for a full 10 seconds.
That doesn't prove anything. My EF1000 will run my 15a heat gun just fine, but if you measure the amps and voltage it is putting out 10a at 100w; in line with it's 1000w maximum. Your AC might not survive something like that. (on the house power it measures 13.5a at 120v)
The EF1000 will start my refrigerator that normally requires 1700w to start; I bet it is not real good for the refrigerator though, and I don't intend on doing it again.
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:11 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Castaway View Post
I am wondering what would happen to the AC if it is underpowered. Would the start capacitor go bad? Or would the entire AC get fried?


Gary
The motor will overheat and hopefully it will trip out until it is cool to prevent damage. If it doesn't, you will melt the windings.
My drum sander trips out all the time if I try to sand off too much; don't know if I want to try it with something not really designed for it.
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:49 PM   #19
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That doesn't prove anything. My EF1000 will run my 15a heat gun just fine, but if you measure the amps and voltage it is putting out 10a at 100w; in line with it's 1000w maximum. Your AC might not survive something like that. (on the house power it measures 13.5a at 120v)
The EF1000 will start my refrigerator that normally requires 1700w to start; I bet it is not real good for the refrigerator though, and I don't intend on doing it again.
If you meant to say your EF1000 puts out 10a at 100 volts, then I believe that (seconds before it tripped?). It's rated for 8.3 amps/120 volts. The EF2400ISHC has no problem putting out 16.7 - 20amps at 120amps and boosting up to 4400 watts. I've ran the 15k/btu a/c for many hot days. volts/amp/watts all verified with Fluke and Extech meters.
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:50 AM   #20
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If you meant to say your EF1000 puts out 10a at 100 volts, then I believe that (seconds before it tripped?). It's rated for 8.3 amps/120 volts. The EF2400ISHC has no problem putting out 16.7 - 20amps at 120amps and boosting up to 4400 watts. I've ran the 15k/btu a/c for many hot days. volts/amp/watts all verified with Fluke and Extech meters.
I believe it did 20a at 120v; that is what it claims it maximum is. But 4400w would be 37a at 120v if it actually light them. Did you confirm this with your meters? If not, I suspect it was actually putting out 25a at 96v, the same as my EU1000 put out a measured 10a at 100v when running the 1500w device. If you actually measured 4440w, then Yamaha should change their ratings.

I don't know what it takes to start your A/C, but it is takes more than 2400w, it started it the same way my EU1000 started my refrigerator that requires 1920w to start; dangerously. (welll, it only dangerous if the device isn't designed to trip out on low voltage; which it hopefully is.)
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Old 10-27-2012, 07:41 PM   #21
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Although I cannot confirm a 13K BTU AC operation, I can tell you that I load tested my new 2400isHC this week. I ran it on propane while testing and loading so I could set the load block to as close to maximum as possible. Here is what I found:

Idle speed RPM 2600-2610 tuned in.

AC on 11K BTU running
All lights on (all LED)
2- fantastic vents on full setting 3
Microwave 25 seconds (with only ac running)

I ran the settings test to see how the generator responded to an overload as well. My AC unit draws 1415 watts (by the spec) when stabilized, the lights about 29 watts, the fans about 72 watts and the reading lights about 9 watts. The microwave is 700 watts.

I was able to run everything except the microwave when running the ac without any issues or red overload light. When I turned everything off but the AC and tried the microwave (2100 total watts) the overload light dimly lit up and faded out then came back on during the 25 second run of the microwave; however, the generator showed no other sign of overload - sounded great, no stalling, etc. My AC unit is a Dometic 600312.321 Penguin II. Rated at 9.5 amps compressor/3.1 amps fan (1415 watts). The startup is no issue for the 2400ishc. The 13.5K Dometic 600315.321/326 is rated 15.5 amps@115v = 1783 watts. I can say that by my testing, the 2400isHC can run that AC. The only difference is that you may not be able to run everything else as I was able to do in my tests with a unit requiring about 400 watts less power. Oh and remember I ran the tests using propane, not gasoline. Some say that propane produces less power?!
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:19 PM   #22
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I found a website that was a gold mine of information on generators - regarding operation, selection, usage, etc.

Propane and propane generators
Note this suggestion for any brand per se (principles)

Picking a generator by engine----It takes 2 HP to create 1000watts of power
Anything less is using gearing, pulleys, etc to "cheat" power from a smaller engine thus working it harder taking a toll on engine life. So, check out engine size and output to rated generator output. (PS. Honda gens have belts)

To compare fuel usage use BTU as comparison unit.

Each horsepower consumes 10K BTU per hour
Propane = 92KBTU/Gallon and weighs 4.2lbs/gallon
Gasoline (E10) 111K BTU/Gallon
Natural Gas= 84K BTU/Gallon

How long would a 5000 Watt Generator with a 10 HP engine at 50% load run on a 20# propane cylinder?

10hp at 50% load would be using 5 horse power to generate 2500 watts of energy.

5hp x 10,000 btu would consume 50,000 btu per hour.

Using a 20# cylinder that produces 441,600 total btu, the engine consuming 50,000 btu per hour would run for about 8.8 hour

From looking at the above info of general info for any generator, the 2400isHC is one heck of a generator for someone who just crosses the 2000 watt threshold but does not need 3000 watts on a regular basis. It has a large 5.5 horsepower engine that would technically be able to handle a 2750 watt load without any special gearing, etc. Plus the unit has a backup capacitor to boost output on heavier loads. Someone on the Internet in an article tested the 2400isHC with a load bank and reported that it held 30 amps (around 3400 watts) for around 10 seconds. So, that would mean that anyone should be able to start and run a 13.5K AC with one.

On fuel usage - there is a test by an RV magazine I read that compared Honda, Yamaha and some other brand. The models were similar. Honda 2000, if I remember correctly did better consumption-wise on lighter loads/idle but on 1/2 loads or more, it was working harder (see engine size) and consumed more than the Yammy. There was, I believe, an overall difference of a tenth of a gallon of gasoline consumption between the Honda 2000 and the Yamaha 2400. In this I gave the advantage to the Yamaha with the added backup power.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:59 PM   #23
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oh, forgot the calculations for ya on consumption cost (comparative)

Let's say I want to run my AC for 8 hours on the generator - gas versus propane

I need 240,000 BTUs of power (3 hp to create 1500 watts or so) to run eight hours.

propane@240,000 = 2.6 gallons and at $3.80/gal = $9.88 more but cleaner burning and --

------no carb residue. ( I paid $27 for a 30# tank fill or $3.80/gal 7.1 gallons)

gasoline@240,000 = 2.16 gallons at $3.65/gal = $7.88

Gasoline $2 cheaper to run this time.
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