|
|
01-15-2017, 09:33 AM
|
#1
|
4 Rivet Member
2016 27' Flying Cloud
Hartsburg
, Missouri
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 464
|
Which solar controller?
I am moving toward finalizing my plan for my DIY solar, inverter/charger, and lithium battery upgrade. Plan is to install 300-400 AH of lithium batteries but still undecided between Victron or Elite Power Solutions for batteries and BMS. I am leaning toward Victron Mutiplus inverter/charger model 12/2000 or 12/3000. I am planning on adding three 100 W panels to my two 50 W factory panels in a series/parallel arrangement to minimize loss with the factory wiring by raising the voltage. My question is whats a good solar controller for this arrangement? Is the Victron MPPT 100/30 a good choice? Will I also need a VE.Direct remote on/off cable to connect with the BMS? --Frank
__________________
Frank & Fran
2016 27' FC FB with 600 W solar
2016 Ford F150 EcoBoost
Equalizer Hitch
|
|
|
01-15-2017, 11:48 AM
|
#2
|
Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
|
I just recently installed all Victron equipment including the 12/3000 inverter/charger, a solar controller, BMV battery monitor, Lithium batteries. I put Bluetooth dongles on the solar controller and the battery monitor. Your phone then can do anything with those. There is nothing to set in the BMS. You will need a MkII USB interface to connect your I/C to a laptop to update firmware and settings. The settings can be done with dip switches if you prefer. I am very pleased with all of the equipment, its user interfaces, and its ease of operation.
Larry
|
|
|
01-15-2017, 12:17 PM
|
#3
|
4 Rivet Member
2016 27' Flying Cloud
Hartsburg
, Missouri
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 464
|
Thanks Larry, that's reassuring. Which Victron solar controller did you use? And it sounds like you are saying other than the input form the panels, and output to the batteries, there's no other connection needed from the solar controller to then BMS? And I appreciate your reply to my earlier post about wiring the inverter-- Frank
__________________
Frank & Fran
2016 27' FC FB with 600 W solar
2016 Ford F150 EcoBoost
Equalizer Hitch
|
|
|
01-15-2017, 12:44 PM
|
#4
|
Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
|
I have the 100/15 because I only have 200w of solar connected. The output of the solar controller will go to whatever connection your configuration requires relative to the BMS. If you are using AM Solar they have drawings on their website as to where your solar controller output will go. The connection is with copper wire and a crimped on ring, nothing special.
Larry
|
|
|
01-15-2017, 08:55 PM
|
#5
|
Rivet Master
2017 23' Flying Cloud
Parker
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,772
|
I'm also using the Victron setup, similar to Larry. I used am Solar as well, very happy with everything so far, but not installed. Need warmer weather.
My system will handle 500W on top and 200W portable, max. If I can fit all 500w on my 23D. I'm using the 100/50, because of the max watts and amps I may use.
The only frustrating part is waiting for lithium batteries as they are on back order. Ordered before Christmas, due feb/march.
Thx
Troutboy
__________________
Thanks,
Troutboy
|
|
|
01-16-2017, 08:29 PM
|
#6
|
2 Rivet Member
2016 23' Flying Cloud
Goodyear
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 55
|
First of all I would suggest sticking with Victron brand for your charge controller. The Bluetooth dongle works great for monitoring your controller and making settings. I've been trialing the 100/50 model. I've been extremely happy with the Victron Multiplus hybrid inverter charger. For 400 W of solar, in a 12 volt system, a 100/30 should be fine. There will not be much room for expansion. The ALT-e store on line has videos that shows the results of mixing different size panels.
Btw I have a 23 d also and have been able to mount 600 watts.
|
|
|
01-16-2017, 09:14 PM
|
#7
|
Rivet Master
2017 23' Flying Cloud
Parker
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,772
|
Docinabox,
What year is your trailer. I am asking to see if it is one of the later year models that has the ducted AC. The roof is raised and I don't think has as much white space on it because of the raised roof to make room for the ducted AC.
Do you have any pictures you could share that shows how you laid out the panels?
Also, how did you get the wires into the AS from the roof to the charge controller?
Any info to help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thx
Troutboy
__________________
Thanks,
Troutboy
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 05:52 AM
|
#8
|
2 Rivet Member
2016 23' Flying Cloud
Goodyear
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 55
|
My 23 d is a 2016 model and has a ducted air conditioning system. Because of the step off between the ducted portion of the roof and the caps there is a bit less wiggle room. Part of the strategy is to have the most efficient panels. I used renogy eclipse which have the same reported electrical properties as the AM solar 100 watt panel (SP100).
I used the prewire found at the rear fantastic fan. Drilled a hole in the roof and ran an electrical conduit from my combiner box. getting past drilling the first hole in the airstream was a big mental hurdle! I know there has been a lot of debate on using this 10 AWG for solar, but is quite sufficient for certain strategies and my calculated line loss is less than 2% and I am nowhere near the capacity of the wire.
Once you hook up to the solar prewire in the back, you can find the other end marked with "solar prewire" label in the front of the coach under the street side dinette by the bus bars and fuse box. Here will be a yellow and green wire as well as a cat5 cable(blue) the other end of the cat 5 you can find behind the wall over the stove. I was able to find mine behind the remote inverter control.
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 06:09 AM
|
#9
|
2 Rivet Member
2016 23' Flying Cloud
Goodyear
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 55
|
Here are curb side and street side pics. You can see that I'm experimenting with ways to clear the a/c and minimize shading.
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 07:52 AM
|
#10
|
Full time Airstreamer
2014 30' FB FC Bunk
Anywhere
, USA Living.Somewhere.Yonder
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,359
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Docinabox
I used renogy eclipse which have the same reported electrical properties as the AM solar 100 watt panel (SP100).
|
Are you using AM Solar mounts with the Renogy panels? Looks like it.
__________________
@living.somewhere.yonder | Instagram
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 08:06 AM
|
#11
|
Rivet Master
Lakes Region
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 815
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbrodsky
I just recently installed all Victron equipment including the 12/3000 inverter/charger, a solar controller, BMV battery monitor, Lithium batteries. I put Bluetooth dongles on the solar controller and the battery monitor. Your phone then can do anything with those. There is nothing to set in the BMS. You will need a MkII USB interface to connect your I/C to a laptop to update firmware and settings. The settings can be done with dip switches if you prefer. I am very pleased with all of the equipment, its user interfaces, and its ease of operation.
Larry
|
Larry, did you do all the work yourself? Would you be able to give an idea as to time involved and approx. cost of all the Victron components? Did you get one of the kit systems or individually source it all? Thanks
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 08:26 AM
|
#12
|
2020 Classic 33
Box Elder
, South Dakota
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,731
|
I went the Elite Power Solutions route with BlueSky controller. AmSolar for the panels. The EPS products work well, seem to always be in stock, they will ship to you from Phoenix. Recently I heard that they are only selling through distributors/installers rather than direct. But that shouldn't be much of an issue. Marvin Braun at PrecisionRV can help you there.
I used the Magnum Hybrid MSH inverter/charger. Magnum does have a wireless monitoring kit available, the MagWeb monitoring kit.
__________________
Gary
2020 Classic 33 Twin, 2019 Ram 3500 Longhorn, ProPride
NØVPN
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 08:43 AM
|
#13
|
Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
|
Time/cost
RandyNH,
Yes, I did all of the work myself. I bought the kits from AM Solar, but modified them a bit, before purchase, so that I used 4/0 for battery parallels and 2/0 for the other cables, plenty big for my application and much easier in the tight spaces. Their kits are well thought out. Their stuff was about $5500. I spent maybe $200 more for some tools and stuff purchased locally or on Amazon.
I spent a lot of time planning the project, doing scale drawings, etc, maybe a week total. The total project took me 2.5 days, full 8 hour days. I had some help moving and reinstalling the bed, but other than that, there is really only room for one person.
I haven't been camping with the mods yet..waiting for March.
Larry
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 09:10 AM
|
#14
|
Rivet Master
2017 23' Flying Cloud
Parker
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,772
|
I just bought all the parts for my system from an solar. All non battery system components and solar panels cost about $4600. I also spent another couple hundred on tools and posts. The battery bank of lithium at 320 amp hours is another 4K.
This is not an inexpensive project.
And was for a system of 500W solar on top expandable to 200W portable.
__________________
Thanks,
Troutboy
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 10:09 AM
|
#15
|
2 Rivet Member
2016 23' Flying Cloud
Goodyear
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 55
|
Yes AM solar mounts. For the curved roof, the best I could find.
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 10:53 AM
|
#16
|
2 Rivet Member
2017 23' International
Danville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 27
|
At risk of committing a forum faux pas by barging into the conversation and inappropriately steering a slightly different direction, can anyone give me some thoughts on adding portable solar to a factory system? My 23 International has an 80W ZAMP system with a plug-in port, I believe for an additional portable panel. Is it a simple matter of just plugging in an additional portable suitcase panel? Do I have to stay with ZAMP brand? Is my factory wired 80W system adequate to add another 80W or 120W? And will the existing solar controller support this? I reached out to ZAMP, but got some vague answers, maybe because my questions were inexact.
Thanks for any help.
Frank
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 11:11 AM
|
#17
|
Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
|
I cannot give you exact answers, maybe only raising more questions. The ZAMP connection may not be the same plug as other brands of panels; you need to determine. You can always change the plug on the panel. You need to know whether the Zamp connection connects to your solar controller or not and if so, what the rating is for your solar controller, in terms of total watts. My portable panel has its own controller, which could be a problem if the two controllers fight each other and one turns off prematurely. Mine seem to get along fine.
Larry
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 12:37 PM
|
#18
|
Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
Pleasanton
, California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 745
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbastian
At risk of committing a forum faux pas by barging into the conversation and inappropriately steering a slightly different direction, can anyone give me some thoughts on adding portable solar to a factory system? My 23 International has an 80W ZAMP system with a plug-in port, I believe for an additional portable panel. Is it a simple matter of just plugging in an additional portable suitcase panel? Do I have to stay with ZAMP brand? Is my factory wired 80W system adequate to add another 80W or 120W? And will the existing solar controller support this? I reached out to ZAMP, but got some vague answers, maybe because my questions were inexact.
Thanks for any help.
Frank
|
Your solar port connects directly to your batteries. You can plug in a Zamp Solar Ready RV kit or another brand, as long as the portable panel system includes a solar controller. You may have to change the connector of the portable system to be compatible with the Zamp socket. There shouldn't be any contention with your factory system when you plug in a portable system, so adding an additional 120W of portable solar would be fine.
__________________
Al, K6IV
2015 30' Classic, "Chez Nu"
2014 RAM 2500 w/Cummins Diesel
ProPride Hitch, 400 W Solar
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 02:16 PM
|
#19
|
Rivet Master
2017 23' Flying Cloud
Parker
, Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 1,772
|
On the newer AS models there is a three way roof top zamp box port. Picture below. These wires go to the front of the dinette with no charger. They are for expansion as described above. I don't know where they connect if you get the AS factory solar install.
There is also zamp solar port in the battery box that connect directly to the battery and would need a solar charger.
__________________
Thanks,
Troutboy
|
|
|
01-17-2017, 02:36 PM
|
#20
|
3 Rivet Member
2016 16' Sport
Port Angeles
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 195
|
Dolcinabox how did you figure your loss using the 10 ga wire? I have the Victron 100/30 and I have the prewire shown my Troutboy which is 10 ga. I want to run 2 100 AM panels and would love not to rewire!! Been convinced to this point to go 6 ga due to the length of wire run when you calculate with out and back. 2016 22fb Sport the Zamp combiner box is at the rear and my Victron up front.
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|