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Old 01-17-2016, 12:59 PM   #15
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At the battery
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:17 PM   #16
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The shunt should be as close to the battery negative as possible. It's best if the negative battery goes straight to the shunt on one side, and all load and everything else is on the other side of the shunt.

I don't have a Trimetric but I did a clean install in the overhead bin over the kitchen counter.
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:19 PM   #17
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What shunt is everyone using? 500a or 100a?

Kelvin
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Old 01-17-2016, 04:29 PM   #18
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I am using a 500a shunt like used in dznf0g's photos above.
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Old 01-17-2016, 11:27 PM   #19
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I use a 100 amp shunt as the current will never exceed that for any equipment I have, including the 1000 watt inverter at full output. I have measured about 90 amps with the microwave running, and 85 with the toaster on.

The 100 amp shunt also gives you a higher accuracy.
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Old 01-18-2016, 07:06 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba View Post
I use a 100 amp shunt as the current will never exceed that for any equipment I have, including the 1000 watt inverter at full output. I have measured about 90 amps with the microwave running, and 85 with the toaster on.

The 100 amp shunt also gives you a higher accuracy.
These statements are both true, but there was a reason why Randy at bestconverter.com recommended 500 amp. I just can't remember the technical reason!
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
These statements are both true, but there was a reason why Randy at bestconverter.com recommended 500 amp. I just can't remember the technical reason!

Here is a nice PDF on the question from Bogart: http://www.bogartengineering.com/sit...SHUNTInfo2.pdf

Note this

Quote:
There is a choice of two different shunts, depending on the size of
your system. As mentioned below, the more common, larger one is required if your system has more than 70
amps charging or discharging.
The TriMetric is designed to use either the larger 500 Amp/50 millivolt (0.1
milliohm) or smaller 100 Amp/100 millivolt (1.0 milliohm) shunt. The latter shunt delivers 10 times the voltage
for a given current flow through the shunt, so the meter can show an extra digit of current resolution (down to
0.01 amp) compared with the 500 Amp/50 millivolt shunt, which displays a minimum current of 0.1 amp. To
make the TriMetric read "amps" and "amp-hours" correctly, you must tell the TriMetric which shunt is being used.
This is done by programming either an "L" (low) or "H" (high) in one of the program modes. ("L" for the
100A/100 mV shunt, and "H" for the 500 A/50 mV shunt.) There is provision both in TriMetrics and PentaMetric
for selecting this..
Also, this is just a stab in the dark, but the 500 might be more compatible with other measuring systems. My IPN Pro for my solar and the BMS for the lithiums both use the same 500 A shunt, but neither gave me the ability to choose another. If you're installing other things that make use of the shunt, you might want to check to see if they give the option or require one or the other.
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Old 01-18-2016, 09:39 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
These statements are both true, but there was a reason why Randy at bestconverter.com recommended 500 amp. I just can't remember the technical reason!
You don't have to re set the Tri Metric for the 500 amp shunt, it is the default one.

For my loads, well under 70 amps normally, the 100 amp shunt works fine. The rated load of 100 amps is still sufficient for the occasional load I have of my 1000 watt inverter for a few minutes now and then.

I like the additional accuracy of the 100 amp shunt.
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Old 01-18-2016, 11:52 AM   #23
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Please tell me why you bought the Trimetric, what does it do for you?

Thanks.

I am installing PD4655 this month and wonder if I should do this at the same time.....

Or is this a "Solar Thing"?

Mucho Gracias folks
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:07 PM   #24
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The Tri Metric in essence tells you anytime or all the time the state of charge of your batteries.

When the batteries are new and fully charged you set their Amp hour capacity in the programing step.

After that, as the batteries discharge the Tri Metric counts down the amp hours removed and you can set it to either read the amp hours down, or the % of charge. I generally leave mine on % of charge.

When any source puts a charge back into the batteries (tow vehicle, solar, or converter/charger) the Tri Metric counts UP that charge until it reaches 100% at which point it re sets itself to fully charged. If it does not fully charge, it keeps track of amp hours removed and added, so you virtually always know the state of charge of your batteries.

It also can read Amps being added or removed at any point in time, and also exact voltage at the batteries.

It is very handy to know where your battery state of charge is at all times.
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Old 01-18-2016, 12:08 PM   #25
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My avatar shows the displays for the SeeLevel 714 tank system, the Magnum ARC-50 and the TriStar 60 MPPT control head plus a real windup ship's clock all mounted above the television over the dinette on our Classic They were all mounted on Hickory panels.

We used a smaller Hickory panel just below the television on our 23D as shown in the photo and the battery clock above the television.
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Old 01-18-2016, 01:35 PM   #26
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How do you handle if a single battery is replaced?
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Old 01-18-2016, 04:45 PM   #27
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In general it is not recommended to replace only one battery in a set, but if you did for some reason, you would either need to guess at the Amp Hour capacity in the remaining one, or have a capacity test done on it to give you a feeling for what is remaining in the older battery.

You can always guess low to give you hidden reserve capacity.
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Old 01-28-2016, 10:12 PM   #28
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shunt placement

Do you have pics, or a good explanation of what/how you did it. I need to install mine now. thanks! sorry, of install at the battery.
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