What are these wires for??

[ski0boy]

I am trying to decide how I am going to install a go power flexible solar kit with 2 100w panels and came across these wires inside the ac unit and inside the wardrobe. Have no idea what they are for. Could it be for a ac control panel? The wires are not connected on either end.

I did locate the solar wires near the front vent running to the wardrobe and then to the front left dinette.

Thanks

[Sphere Guy]

Looks like 10ga 12 volt DC wires.

I found many unconnected pairs here and there in our Classic.

[billrector]

Originally Posted by ski0boy

I am trying to decide how I am going to install a go power flexible solar kit with 2 100w panels and came across these wires inside the ac unit and inside the wardrobe. Have no idea what they are for. Could it be for a ac control panel? The wires are not connected on either end.

I did locate the solar wires near the front vent running to the wardrobe and then to the front left dinette.

Thanks

Can you either post your model in here or update your avatar?

[GMFL]

They are tagged. What does that say. One of them is a phone/data wire used for heat strips if installed

[ski0boy]

They all say AC Electric

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by ski0boy

They all say AC Electric

Then don't hook them up to DC solar panels.
I'm pretty sure the prewire for the solar panels is under the street side dinette bench, at the front corner. It should be two wires with yellow butt splice connectors.

[lewster]

Howdy!

There should be a green and yellow wire taped together under your right front dinette bench which are your solar wires. If they are not located there (don't know exactly when Airstream started to place their solar connectors in that space), they could be in the fridge compartment.

Again, have fun looking for the wires!

[NY24]

White is typically used as a Neutral. Black/Red/Blue are typically used to provide power. Use a Non-Contact Voltage Tester to confirm which wires are energized. If the Black and Blue wires DO provide power (are energized), perhaps one feeds the AC and the other feeds a Heat Pump/Strip?

[carl2591]

exactly as we have a green and yellow 10 ga wires just hanging out under the front sofa on the left were the 12 v elec stuff and convertor sit. I understand they go to rear fan unit or in the area between outer and inner roof at the fan trim.. I have not looked myself.

that is only good for one 100 watt panel at best. not really a good prewire but i guess AS only figures 2-50 watt panels up there accord to elec. schematics i have seen.

I also see it run behind the refrigerator and under the sink area with a bunch of other wires as well..

Originally Posted by lewster

Howdy!

There should be a green and yellow wire taped together under your right front dinette bench which are your solar wires. If they are not located there (don't know exactly when Airstream started to place their solar connectors in that space), they could be in the fridge compartment.

Again, have fun looking for the wires!

[ski0boy]

I found the solar prewire.
Behind front vent going to the wardrobe where my water and battery panel is and from there to the front dinette. Batteries are located Just outside on the v shaped frame.
The wires are 10g 600v and I have two 100w panels from go solar to install.
Should I drill a access hole from the side of the fantastic fan vent or make a access point through the aluminum skin roof next to the fan vent?

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by ski0boy

I found the solar prewire.
Behind front vent going to the wardrobe where my water and battery panel is and from there to the front dinette. Batteries are located Just outside on the v shaped frame.
The wires are 10g 600v and I have two 100w panels from go solar to install.
Should I drill a access hole from the side of the fantastic fan vent or make a access point through the aluminum skin roof next to the fan vent?

If you screw up when you drill a hole into the Fantastic fan base, you buy another base for less than a hundred bucks. If you screw up when drilling through the roof...
Also, if you drill into a side of the fan base, it will be more difficult for water to enter via the hole.

[rmkrum]

I used a combiner box and packing glands from AMSolar. Don't screw up the holes...measure three times, start small, and carefully make bigger...

Please note that IMHO, the Airstream factory pre-wire is an inadequate gauge wire, badly located, and a sick joke for any serious solar installation. I used a kit from AMSolar plus a few extra bits and pieces for improved safety and convenience. Lewster would love this...

The combiner box has an open slot on the bottom of one end and multiple well-placed mounting screw holes in the bottom. I (gasp!) cut a matching slot in the roof over the streetside closet to get the wires into the interior. I lined this slot with rubber chafe protection to keep from cutting the #6 red/black wire cable to my solar controller

The box is sealed to the roof in a nice thick bed of silkaflex (sp.) or whatever is currently good for permanently sealing the bottom of the box to the roof. The box has multiple threaded knock-outs into which you can thread the 1/2" cable packing glands for the external wiring, and a set of buss bars with screws inside to parallel the solar panels. I also run several Ham radio antenna and control cables into the interior using this box. Very handy...once you get past the trauma of punching a rather large hole in a pristine aluminum roof...

The lid is held on with six or eight (CRS disease) recessed stainless steel screws, and I put a little blob of what electricians call "Monkey S#it" pressed into the screw recesses to keep water out. A slight mound on the top keeps water running off. "Monkey S#it" is a non-hardening fairly stiff putty-like goop that is used to seal up cable stuffing tubes and conduit to keep water and gasoline vapors out. It's available in a "lump" from big box stores in the electrical aisle, one block is good for at least a few hundred uses...it's easily dug out with a small screwdriver if you need to get into the box again. It is easy to apply if it is fairly warm outside. Just warm it in your hands like modeling clay to make it soft.

I check the sealant condition and screws regularly (yearly roof inspection) for integrity.

Right after the solar panel combiner cable comes through the roof, I installed a Blue Sea systems DC SOLAR disconnect switch high up in the closet to save my butt if I have to work on the input side of the MPPT controller in daylight. Sparks and Arcs are no fun inside an aluminum can... The battery side output of the MPPT controller goes through another clearly labeled DC BATTERY disconnect switch mounted high up in the closet to the battery buss bars under the front bed. The MPPT controller panel is mounted in a hole cut in the face of the overhead storage bin closet end (where Airstream chose to block off about 10 inches of each end to mount electronics with a nice screwed-in panel. The stereo is mounted in the other end in my AS.

There is a third Blue Sea disconnect switch mounted on the outside of the battery box to totally disconnect the batteries from the rest of the systems, and an 80-amp fuse right on the battery terminal for last resort safety...

(No, I'm not super paranoid about the high-current capacity Golf Cart batteries lurking just outside where I sleep. Why do you ask?)

[JMB11]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

I used a combiner box and packing glands from AMSolar. Don't screw up the holes...measure three times, start small, and carefully make bigger...

Please note that IMHO, the Airstream factory pre-wire is an inadequate gauge wire, badly located, and a sick joke for any serious solar installation. I used a kit from AMSolar plus a few extra bits and pieces for improved safety and convenience. Lewster would love this...

The combiner box has an open slot on the bottom of one end and multiple well-placed mounting screw holes in the bottom. I (gasp!) cut a matching slot in the roof over the streetside closet to get the wires into the interior. I lined this slot with rubber chafe protection to keep from cutting the #6 red/black wire cable to my solar controller

The box is sealed to the roof in a nice thick bed of silkaflex (sp.) or whatever is currently good for permanently sealing the bottom of the box to the roof. The box has multiple threaded knock-outs into which you can thread the 1/2" cable packing glands for the external wiring, and a set of buss bars with screws inside to parallel the solar panels. I also run several Ham radio antenna and control cables into the interior using this box. Very handy...once you get past the trauma of punching a rather large hole in a pristine aluminum roof...

The lid is held on with six or eight (CRS disease) recessed stainless steel screws, and I put a little blob of what electricians call "Monkey S#it" pressed into the screw recesses to keep water out. A slight mound on the top keeps water running off. "Monkey S#it" is a non-hardening fairly stiff putty-like goop that is used to seal up cable stuffing tubes and conduit to keep water and gasoline vapors out. It's available in a "lump" from big box stores in the electrical aisle, one block is good for at least a few hundred uses...it's easily dug out with a small screwdriver if you need to get into the box again. It is easy to apply if it is fairly warm outside. Just warm it in your hands like modeling clay to make it soft.

I check the sealant condition and screws regularly (yearly roof inspection) for integrity.

Right after the solar panel combiner cable comes through the roof, I installed a Blue Sea systems DC SOLAR disconnect switch high up in the closet to save my butt if I have to work on the input side of the MPPT controller in daylight. Sparks and Arcs are no fun inside an aluminum can... The battery side output of the MPPT controller goes through another clearly labeled DC BATTERY disconnect switch mounted high up in the closet to the battery buss bars under the front bed. The MPPT controller panel is mounted in a hole cut in the face of the overhead storage bin closet end (where Airstream chose to block off about 10 inches of each end to mount electronics with a nice screwed-in panel. The stereo is mounted in the other end in my AS.

There is a third Blue Sea disconnect switch mounted on the outside of the battery box to totally disconnect the batteries from the rest of the systems, and an 80-amp fuse right on the battery terminal for last resort safety...

(No, I'm not super paranoid about the high-current capacity Golf Cart batteries lurking just outside where I sleep. Why do you ask?)

Rmkrum,
I'm about to start a similar solar installation on a 2004 25' safari sleep six. Do you have any photos of your installation that you would be willing to share ? I know what to do on the roof but looking for ideas of where to place charge controller and monitor.
Thanks

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by overlander63

If you screw up when you drill a hole into the Fantastic fan base, you buy another base for less than a hundred bucks. If you screw up when drilling through the roof...
Also, if you drill into a side of the fan base, it will be more difficult for water to enter via the hole.

Here is how I did mine. Drilled through the side of the fan curb.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by JMB11

Rmkrum,
I'm about to start a similar solar installation on a 2004 25' safari sleep six. Do you have any photos of your installation that you would be willing to share ? I know what to do on the roof but looking for ideas of where to place charge controller and monitor.
Thanks

Don’t have photos handy at the moment.
I have a 2007 22’ International CCD. There is an empty spot on the right hand end of the upper kitchen cabinet. The left end houses the radio. I carefully marked out an opening for the MPPT controller on the right side and cut the laminate face and plywood with a RotoZip tool. The controller I have was designed for mounting in a flat panel. 4 wood screws hold it in. The wiring is run through a hole drilled into the adjacent wardrobe closet. The combiner box is also above the closet. All the wiring is protected by corrugated split loom to make it look tidy and protect it from damage. There is a removable panel screwed in on the inside of the cabinet from the factory that further protects the controller and wiring from cabinet contents.