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Old 01-14-2016, 09:40 AM   #1
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Solar panel installation next step???

OK! What is the next step?

I have a 2015 Airstream International 30 feet. I installed 3 Pannels solars on the roof and the junction box. I found the pre instal solar 10 AWG wire ( I decide to keep this wire). Now I have to drill a hole in the roof and connect the wire in the junction box.

Now that's done, what do i do afterwards?
1- Where the 10 AWG is going?
2- Do I have to connect the Bus Bar?
3- Where do I install the controller?
4- What wire should go to the controller?
5- The panel installation in parallèle or series?

So if some one whit exp. tell me the next step.

Ps. sorry for my english....

Thanks.
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Old 01-14-2016, 09:42 AM   #2
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Where in the ceiling did you find the panel end of the (green and Yellow??) wires? Did you find the other ends of those 2 wires? (Near the electrical center??????)
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Old 01-14-2016, 11:21 AM   #3
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Tino,

When you have three panels, you're only solution is to install them in parallel. You can install four panels in a series/parallel arrangement. However with three parallel panels you will exceed 3% losses if you use the solar pre-wiring, so the recommendation is for you to run your own wires, #8 or #6, down to your solar controller.

Did you already install the three panels or are you planning to install the three panels? You haven't said what type of panels or what type of controller you're intending to use.

Also, if you can get a four panel on the roof like I did then you can re-use the existing solar pre-wiring and keep your losses at less than 3%.
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Old 01-14-2016, 02:10 PM   #4
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Alano,

I don't want to change the wire. So i will buy a fouth panel and do the same set up you have. I am waiting for the controler. Is the same like you. My problem is all the wirering! Where the 10 AWG wire ends. Where I plug it and what do i plug in the controler....
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Old 01-14-2016, 02:50 PM   #5
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Ok, four panels will work well in a series/parallel arrangement. I'll draw up a schematic for you in a later post.

I mounted my solar controller in back of the couch next to the battery disconnect relay. I first prepared a plywood board to mount to the skin of the AS at the back of the couch and then mounted the controller and disconnect switch on the plywood. The controller sat perhaps 6 to 12" above the floor. It was necessary to remount the couch away from the front wall 1 to 2" to make sure there was some room in front on the controller for good air circulation.

You'll need to get a 50A rotary switch that you'll wire in series with the positive connection from the panels to the controller. This switch allows you to disconnect solar power if you need to do maintenance on the controller. You'll also need to buy a 40A fuse that connects from the solar controller directly to the batteries. I bought both the switch and fuse at my local auto parts store.

Have you read through the installation manual for the Blue Sky 3024 manual? Did you also purchase the IPN pro remote and shunt?
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Old 01-14-2016, 03:05 PM   #6
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Al, let me ask a question.....I've read several times about the switch thing....why is it "needed"? If you have to disconnect the solar for some reason, why not just remove the solar connectors from the controller...if they're readily accessible. I ask, because I am half way through my install, but weather delayed. I don't plan on a cutoff switch, but my controller is easily accessible.
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Old 01-14-2016, 03:35 PM   #7
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I have four panels on the roof and the MC4 connectors are not readily accessible, so I decided to add the switch. Since I also have a series/parallel arrangement, my open-circuit voltage is near 50 V so I was confortable connecting my controller with the panels disconnected.
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Old 01-14-2016, 04:25 PM   #8
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Ok, I see.
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:03 PM   #9
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Drawings1.pdf

Tino,

Here's some drawings to help you get started. You should probably read over them and then ask questions.
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Old 01-15-2016, 08:47 AM   #10
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Thanks Alano

I am waiting for my 4 panel. The drawing will help me very much... I give some news went everything is set....Thanks
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:22 AM   #11
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We have a 50 amp solar panel isolation switch in the refrigerator area where the wires come down from the roof on both the 23D and the Classic. This allows one to work on the solar charge controller without input power interfering. There is also a similar switch in the wiring coming out of the solar charge controller to the battery array so the controller can be totally isolated.
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
We have a 50 amp solar panel isolation switch in the refrigerator area where the wires come down from the roof on both the 23D and the Classic. This allows one to work on the solar charge controller without input power interfering. There is also a similar switch in the wiring coming out of the solar charge controller to the battery array so the controller can be totally isolated.
Any chance you could post some pictures of your setup? Or, if you have in the past, point us toward the appropriate thread? Thanks much.
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Old 01-15-2016, 10:01 AM   #13
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My setup is different and I used a 7.5 amp aircraft circuit breaker for each of my panels. That way if one shorts, the breaker should pop allowing the remainder to function. It also allows me to individually see how much each panel is putting out.
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Old 01-15-2016, 10:58 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
My setup is different and I used a 7.5 amp aircraft circuit breaker for each of my panels. That way if one shorts, the breaker should pop allowing the remainder to function. It also allows me to individually see how much each panel is putting out.
I looked into fusing each leg and found that most all panels (quality) have diodes in them that prevent back-feeding to a shorted panel...so I was told that fusing the legs was unnecessary. I believe it was Lewster who said AM solar does no fusing between the controller and the panels. Lew, jump in and school me, if I misunderstood.
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