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02-25-2017, 07:16 AM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
2016 27' Flying Cloud
Hartsburg
, Missouri
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 464
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solar panel configuration
I have two stock airstream 53 W panels on my trailer and I am considering replacing them with four 100 W panels on my roof. I am currently considering putting two of the new panels in series on each side of the trailer then connecting these in parallel to increase voltage and minimize voltage drop with the stock 10 gauge wiring, as suggested in other posts on the forum. Will be using a Victron 100/50 mppt controller. My question is if I wanted to use the two removed 53 watt panels as portable panels on the ground how would I connect them? I'm guessing I can't just join the wires from the roof top panels with the portable panels at the controller because of different voltages or watts? I guess one option is to keep the original pmw controller with the now portable panels and connect it directly to the battery? --Frank
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Frank & Fran
2016 27' FC FB with 600 W solar
2016 Ford F150 EcoBoost
Equalizer Hitch
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02-25-2017, 07:22 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,120
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Yes, to the battery. You can rig a connector to plug into the 7-way and keep it clean and easy. GoPower markets a pre-assembled connector for that.
Larry
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04-29-2017, 05:29 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
2017 27' International
Orland Park
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 81
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Rerouting the portable plug in wiring
I would like to add a 160W of portable panels to the 160W on the roof. My understanding is that there is a prewire plug for portable plug in unit on the frame that is run directly to the batteries.
I think I would prefer to reroute the wiring from the batteries to a combiner near the existing controller and tie the existing roof array to the new portable array connecting them together using the existing controller, creating potential for 320W.
Am I right in thinking that having a separate controller on a portable unit would just fight with the onboard controller? Or limit the available charging to 160W based on whichever is seen first?
Anyone?
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04-29-2017, 09:10 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
Pleasanton
, California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 745
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Multiple controllers do work together and shouldn't compete. Each one sees the voltage of your battery system, so if your batteries are depleted, each controller is going to try and charge.
Most portable panel systems come with PWM chargers already built onto the back of the panels, so I would recommend staying with the pre-wire plug as is and purchasing a complete portable system.
Since you're keen on adding to your solar system, perhaps you should consider a battery monitor. These devices tell you the state of charge of your battery system which is really important to make sure you are caring for your battery system. You can also see the instantaneous current in and out of the battery, so it's a nice diagnostic tool as well.
__________________
Al, K6IV
2015 30' Classic, "Chez Nu"
2014 RAM 2500 w/Cummins Diesel
ProPride Hitch, 400 W Solar
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05-01-2017, 09:17 AM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
2017 27' International
Orland Park
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 81
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Thanks for the info, I thought that having two controllers would set up a fight where they would take turns shutting each other off. Giving some thought to the monitor now.
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Mark
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07-25-2017, 06:29 PM
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#6
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2 Rivet Member
2017 27' International
Orland Park
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alano
Multiple controllers do work together and shouldn't compete. Each one sees the voltage of your battery system, so if your batteries are depleted, each controller is going to try and charge.
Most portable panel systems come with PWM chargers already built onto the back of the panels, so I would recommend staying with the pre-wire plug as is and purchasing a complete portable system.
Since you're keen on adding to your solar system, perhaps you should consider a battery monitor. These devices tell you the state of charge of your battery system which is really important to make sure you are caring for your battery system. You can also see the instantaneous current in and out of the battery, so it's a nice diagnostic tool as well.
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Okay I picked up a monitor Victron 700, now I am puzzled as to which is the correct negative cable to move from the battery to attach to the shunt.
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Mark
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07-25-2017, 06:40 PM
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#7
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalMrT
Okay I picked up a monitor Victron 700, now I am puzzled as to which is the correct negative cable to move from the battery to attach to the shunt.
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Hi
You keep the wire that connects one negative post to the other negative post. All other wires come off the batteries negative side. The shunt goes between the battery post and the "other" wires that used to go to the negative side of the batteries.
Bob
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07-25-2017, 06:49 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
2017 27' International
Orland Park
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 81
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Thanks. That whole a bunch of wires. Is there an adapter of some sort to convert the automotive post type cable connection?
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Mark
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07-25-2017, 07:03 PM
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#9
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalMrT
Thanks. That whole a bunch of wires. Is there an adapter of some sort to convert the automotive post type cable connection?
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Hi
Yup it's a bunch of wires. The "easy" way is to move them over to a bus bar used as a ground.
Bob
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07-25-2017, 08:04 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
Pleasanton
, California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalMrT
Is there an adapter of some sort to convert the automotive post type cable connection?
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I just cut off the automotive post connection and soldered on a lug style terminal.
__________________
Al, K6IV
2015 30' Classic, "Chez Nu"
2014 RAM 2500 w/Cummins Diesel
ProPride Hitch, 400 W Solar
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07-25-2017, 08:07 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
2017 27' International
Orland Park
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 81
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solar panel configuration
Would it be okay to move everything else now and then move the automotive one over the weekend after I can grab a new end?
__________________
Mark
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07-25-2017, 08:30 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2015 30' Classic
Pleasanton
, California
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalMrT
Would it be okay to move everything else now and then move the automotive one over the weekend after I can grab a new end?
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Sure, you won't hurt anything, just don't expect the info obtained by the battery monitor to make any sense.
__________________
Al, K6IV
2015 30' Classic, "Chez Nu"
2014 RAM 2500 w/Cummins Diesel
ProPride Hitch, 400 W Solar
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07-25-2017, 08:33 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
2017 27' International
Orland Park
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 81
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Thank you guys for the help.
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Mark
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07-26-2017, 04:11 AM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
2017 27' International
Orland Park
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 81
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Well one more question. Should all the positive leads be put on the opposing battery?
__________________
Mark
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07-26-2017, 07:18 AM
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#15
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Half a Rivet Short
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 15,674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalMrT
Well one more question. Should all the positive leads be put on the opposing battery?
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Hi
If you put the positive all on the other battery, it will improve your performance by approximately 0.1% at normal AS load levels. If you are putting a 10KW inverter into the AS then that's different ...
Bob
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07-26-2017, 10:00 AM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
2017 27' International
Orland Park
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 81
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Well not 10k. So less work for me. Thanks
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Mark
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