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Old 08-21-2015, 12:29 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Gsmblue View Post
Yeah, it is really pissing me off! I have the flap part, but I have NO idea what the connector I need to go with it... grrrr.

I have the Zamp solar port too... But it looks tacky..
I had a frustrating time dealing with Furrion today...trying to get information on their Solar Port. Evidently, it only works with their ECO Solar setup. Something about liability. Ha. I told them their little 95w solar array wasn't good for much of anything, other that topping off the batteries. They agreed, but didn't really appreciate my sense of humor. Anyway, even though I have Furrion 30a shore power, generator and cable inputs, I won't be buying their very limited use Solar Port. Instead, I found a waterproof Go Power Inlet that accepts MC4 connectors. I'm going to mount it above the 7 pin behind the LPG tanks and route it directly to a Viewstar 30a PWM Controller (all of my electronics and batteries have been moved to the front of my Trade Wind during the remodel). That will give me the shortest path to the batteries. This solar port is available through Go Power dealers, or I found it on Amazon. No cheap, but sleek.
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Old 09-04-2015, 03:16 PM   #16
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I bought the Zamp connector and mounted it on my battery box. The problem is the gauge is not heavy enough so I quit using it and clamp directly to the batteries. I hope to get an Anderson plug.


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Old 09-04-2015, 03:19 PM   #17
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I used Andersons with a pigtail that comes out the battery door on the front.
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:57 PM   #18
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I have the Renogy 100W "suitcase" panel. I purchased 30' of 10/2 cord and made my own cable using Anderson connectors from my local Interstate dealer. They even crimped the connectors for me. I created a pigtail on my battery box and another on the solar controller. The rest of the cable is my "extension" which lets me place the panel in the best location. It is simple, quick to connect and has worked really well.
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:34 PM   #19
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I made some progress here. I pulled the solar port apart and found out the connector is a YP-20 by CNLinko

YP-20 Power Connector | Cnlinko

I just can't find anywhere to buy one. Furrion are useless... I gave up on them..

I also found out that if you unscrew the female connector from the "Furrion Solar port" that you can pretty much drop in the Zamp connector into the same hole.

Now, as I previously discovered:
1. the Furrion inserts are interchangeable, this was learnt when I upgraded the TV/cable port to the stainless steel and I could only get the TV/phone version.

2. So I put the Zamp connector in the Solar port plate as I mentioned above, nice snug fit, the flap closes.

3. I put the "solar port insert" into a into a stainless steel receptacle (actually it is labeled "30Amp 125V" so i need to take care of that!..

As you can see in the pic, it still needs sealing and screwing in... blah, blah...
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:49 PM   #20
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What's the amp rating of the connector package?
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:16 PM   #21
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The Furrion solar port uses 12 gauge wire, well that's what it states on the wire, it is not copper. The Zamp looks to be the same gauge, but the wires are unmarked.

If you want pics, let me know.
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:27 PM   #22
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The 2-way SAE flange connector (as used by Zamp) is available up to 8 gauge (not from Zamp).
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Old 09-04-2015, 10:37 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by richinny View Post
how about using the umbilical cord?
That was my first thought also.
There's a (+) and a (-) charging wire there already. It would be easy and cheap to do, but I'm not sure if the wires are large enough gauge to handle the electrical output from the solar panels.
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Old 09-05-2015, 01:48 AM   #24
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Nice work on the Furrion conversion Gsmblue. I almost went that route to match my other inputs. The YP-20 connector looks cool and sexy. Hope you can find a source for it. I guess you could always apply to be a CNLinko rep. In the end, I went with the Go Power inlet. I installed it upside down to help shed any water that might get at it, although the connections are water tight. And since it is behind the LPG tanks, it's outta sight / outta mind.
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:05 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
That was my first thought also.
There's a (+) and a (-) charging wire there already. It would be easy and cheap to do, but I'm not sure if the wires are large enough gauge to handle the electrical output from the solar panels.
that would depend on the panel output and the length of the run.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:30 AM   #26
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Arktos- that looks great! Did you have to deal with splicing wires? If so how?
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:20 AM   #27
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Anderson DC plugs

I installed a set other these on my trailer and tow vehicle also I have a long cable I can tie TV battery's to AS . And a set of jumper cables that plug into TV , just lIke what tow trucks have you don't have to lift the hood to give a jump . I don't tie AS to TV anymore after installing a solar system. But they make these plugs in different sizes .But you can use these too connect solar panels for quick connection.
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:23 AM   #28
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Anderson DC plugs

Quote:
Originally Posted by rnelson View Post
I have the Renogy 100W "suitcase" panel. I purchased 30' of 10/2 cord and made my own cable using Anderson connectors from my local Interstate dealer. They even crimped the connectors for me. I created a pigtail on my battery box and another on the solar controller. The rest of the cable is my "extension" which lets me place the panel in the best location. It is simple, quick to connect and has worked really well.
Did not see this good choice.
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