I don't think I can help you, but I'll try. Most of our interior lights are flourescent, except for the reading lights in the overhead cabinets over the couch and bed, the wall sconces just inside the door and on each side of the bed, and the chandelier over the dinette.
All our flourescents have switches on them. There are two double tube flourescents fixtures in the living room next to the Fantastic Vent. The one closest to the vent gets its power from a wall switch on the back of the dinette as you come in the door. The idea is to leave the switch on that flourescent on all the time, and switch it at the door. If it accidentally gets switched off at the light, the switch by the door is useless. The one next to that one is just wired hot like most of the others in the trailer and is turned on and off at the light.
We also have two double tube flourescents over the bathroom vanity mirror. Both, as well as an incandescent light in the shower, get their power from one wall switch next to the sink. Both also have switches on the fixture and you can turn the left one (or the right one) off at the fixture, for example, to conserve power when boondocking.
We also have a double tube flourescent over the bed that gets its power from a wall switch. It too must be left in the on position for the wall switch to function.
Other than that, the four double-tubes in the kitchen (two in the ceiling, one over the appliance garage and one over the sink), the two in the dressing area, and the one in the couch overhead cabinet, must be turned on and off at the light fixture, as is the case with the tungsten reading lights and sconces. The chandelier over the dinette is on an electronic dimmer switch on the back of the dinette by the door.
Thanks for all the good information, I guess I'll just get one panel so it keeps the batteries charged while in the storage lot. Let me know if I am looking at this wrong but I think that with one panel it should keep the battries charged instead of having them go dead and then charging them up before we go RV'ing.
Melvin, I'm a fan of solar and have just the 5 watt Solargizer maintaining my 2 Delco Voyager grp. 27 batteries when boondocking. I am a powermizer just like femuse and I have never had a problem. I have thought about two 50 watt panels, maybe two 75 watt panels or one single 120 watt panel. The more I think about what I want to do, (and the more I read from Maurice) I think a 75 watt panel supplemented with a generator should cover all my boondocking situations. You can't go wrong with a solar panel that keeps the batteries charged especially if you are dealing with phantom loads. I guess I get away with just the 5 watt because I do not use more than one or two lights at a time and not for long periods of time. I also do not use the water pump but for a short period of time during a 2-4 day period. This will probably change within the next year. Also, the batteries have 3-4 days to fully charge while I am away before the next hunting weekend.
Femuse, my wall switch controls the circuit over the sink. I have a single bulb fixture mounted overhead between the stove and sink. I have a double bulb fixture mounted overhead just to the right of the sink. Powermizer that I am, only the single unit over the Nutone unit by the stove is turned on when the switch is on. If I need additional light, the others are turned on while at the sink. This way, when I enter the trailer at night, a single bulb is turned on and that gives me plenty of light to do what I need to do. The lights by the fan come on only when I need additional light to look at maps or maybe a card game with the guys (gotta keep your eyes open when playing with them).
__________________ Craig
AIR #0078
'01 2500hd ext. cab, 8.1 litre gas, 5 sp. Allison auto
3.73 rear end
Mag-Hytec rear diff cover
Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
265 watt AM Solar, Inc. system
What I learned is: somewhere between 1990 & 2001 they made some big changes in the electrical system. The only thing I recognise is the wall light by the door.
We were stunned by the amount of light they use in a 1990 vs a 1974. It's a good thing we didn't go for a later model.
What we find very ennoying is the book is about only 50% acurate on most everything described.
To know how a specific model/year is set up help track down malfunctions or modifications.
Thanks for the info, I am sure it will help somebody in this never ending quest: "where in the world is the.......in my trailer?"
Well it looks like I can get the Safari in a covered area of the storage facility so there goes my theory about having solar to keep everything charged while waiting for the next trip.
I take it that the master switch does not turn off the propane detector and there are some other small draws on the Battery. Do you suggest completely disconnecting the batteries while stored? The new Safari has 2 batteries FYI.
Also, it seems like 2 Honda U2000's are the way to go because they are easier to move around for us old guys. Used to have a strong back and a weak mind, oh for the good old days.
Personally, if I were going to leave the trailer in storage for weeks or even months at a time, I'd remove the batteries and take them home with me so I could keep them on Battery Tenders.
Can you use one Battery Tender for both batteries or do you need one for each. Also, do you recommend the brand name Battery Tender or one of the other brands?
I use one Battery Tender on two motorcycles. It's okay as long as you remember to switch them. I like that brand name and all the info on their website http://www.batterytender.com
In this month's Mother Earth News magazine, a person wrote in and stated that you can expect to pay around $9 a watt for a COMPLETE solar system for a home. He stated a typical home solar system is around 5000 watts, so expect to pay $45,000 for such a system. The point of his letter, is that California is offering tax credits and incentives for residential solar systems. Now if you live in CA and fulltime in your RV there....................
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CP 9 miles off Exit 399, I75.
2003 GMC 2500HD 4X4 D/A Ext. Cab
Propane Powered Honda EU2000i
Lots of Hot Sauce! Air # 283
We have been using a separate battery for our fridge control panel for 2 years, always have it plugged on the Sears "Fully automatic Battery Charger/Minder".
We found them on sale half price in a Sears Hardware Store in Upstate NY last summer, so we bought a 2nd one as a spare.
I just picked up a 30XHS, which is the same as the 31XHS. Trojans battery specs say it is 15/16" wider than a 31XHS but that is due, I think to the extra plastic for the rope handle. The base is 13". I have 13.5" available in the battery tray. I may have to saw off the studs, but I have 10" of height in the battery compartment, so I may not have to. Man, that sucker is heavy at 65 lbs They charged me $89.95 plus tax. Battery store keeps them in stock, because they are used in industrial floor sweepers, that many of their customers have.
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CP 9 miles off Exit 399, I75.
2003 GMC 2500HD 4X4 D/A Ext. Cab
Propane Powered Honda EU2000i
Lots of Hot Sauce! Air # 283
I've pretty much decided to get a small generator just to charge the batteries when dry camping more than a couple of days, and maybe to run a small TV/VCR combo. I thought the 1000 watt Honda EU1000i fit the bill, but then I found this Yamaha EF1000IS which compares pretty favorably in a feature comparison chart on the following site: http://www.yamahagenerators.com/yama...04933520747006
But before I buy, I thought I'd check to see if anyone has any experience with this product.
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They charged me $89.95 plus tax. Battery store keeps them in stock, because they are used in industrial floor sweepers, that many of their customers have.
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