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Old 02-11-2017, 11:41 AM   #1
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Romex Splice Kits- what do you think

So, I need to splice a 12-3 romex line as I do my solar upgrade. I used this approach instead of like in home construction where you tie into another junction box.

I don't want to make this a debate on solid or stranded wire. I know stranded is better, but I am not going to tear down my new AS to replace all the solid conductor wire.

After research, I decided to use the following splice kit:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Elec...T-UF/202204319

Here is a photo of what my finished splice looks like.

Click image for larger version

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It's seems very strong and I will support it with cable ties and mounts.

Has anyone used this approach, or am I missing something major that will cause a safety issues?

I will still have time to remove this and replace with a s different kind of splice. This kit is rated for underground burial, and I figured it would work for AS use as well.

Thanks!
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:06 PM   #2
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Looks pretty clean to me. I THINK that kit is approved by the NEC for in wall splices, at least in certain situations (mobile homes for one IIRC) so it should be solid enough for your situation.
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:07 PM   #3
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Nothing the matter with what you did. I use crimp connectors with piece of heat shrink tubing over, very strong and waterproof as this looks like same as you pur. in kit form. There are also heat shrink crimp on connectors, but I prefer indv. connectors and tubing instead of shrink connectors. There are also epoxy kits for underground use, such as semper seal and others but not needed for normal work.
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:10 PM   #4
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If you are using it for 120VAC, look at the answer to the third question. My remodeling contractor recently told me that splices must be done in a box, by code. They accidentally cut a wire and had to splice it. they added a box to do so.

Also, it says it is for UF cable, which is direct bury. I may be wrong, but I don't think the cable in the picture is UF.

IDK about in RVs, but if you have a place for a box, I would think that is the preferred solution.

If you are using it for solar low voltage, it may be OK.

Edit:
Curiosity got the better of me. I find nothing in the NEC that requires the use of a box. It specifically mentions splices, even soldering, as acceptable. The RV sections mentions splices and refers to the general paragraph 110.14.





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Old 02-11-2017, 01:07 PM   #5
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Hmmmmm. I was in such a hurry I missed the UF. I wonder if this one would be better, it says it is approved in walls and replaces junction boxes.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Elec...77-2/202204326

Maybe I should just use the junction box.....
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Old 02-11-2017, 03:34 PM   #6
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It meets NEC, I'd go for it.

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Old 02-11-2017, 03:57 PM   #7
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Spoke to a friend that is in training to be an electrician. He said the connection with the UF connector as shown should be fine as long as I have access to it and do not place behind a wall.

Still not sure of the best way, likely rip it out and just do a junction box....
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Old 02-11-2017, 03:59 PM   #8
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Don't worry about being uf or not. Uf is for general out doors use and burial. Also I have never seen uf yellow color and I have used 1,000s of feet of both kinds, and only uf romex I have used is gray in color , also you can tell when stripping, it is dif. construction and plastics used. Some munsi. and countys don't approve of romex, want conduit for various reasons, as far as box req. for splice afraid to cut into splice, but recommended. Low voltage another story. romex can be cut any where. My county lets use romex but if run in walls has to have wall board or some thing to prevent damage. This also a trades union push, as a lot of bldg. codes are. I have been union all my working days so no prob. with unions.
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Old 02-11-2017, 07:43 PM   #9
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The cable above is residential romex 12-3. Same as used in rat of the AS, a 2017.

If the connector is rated for UF, does that mean it can't be used for non-UF?
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Old 02-12-2017, 09:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutboy View Post
The cable above is residential romex 12-3. Same as used in rat of the AS, a 2017.

If the connector is rated for UF, does that mean it can't be used for non-UF?
Yes can be used for both uf and reg. romex. A question stated 12-3 is there 2 black and one white and 1 bare copper 1 black and 1 white and 1 bare copper? 2 blacks mean 2 live such as 220 volt, white is neutral. Neutral not req. for 220 but bare is ground that is req. for any elct. and you can run 2 hot 120 volt circuits with 12-3 pick up both neutrals with one white. IMO don't have to put in box as this is not connection done with twist on connectors that can come loose then come off and cause shorts plus even if taped with twist on can lose connectivity of elect. if wires are not tightly twisted together. If you can pull strongly on joint does not come apart I wouldn't worry about box. Box protects twist on connectors but pics. show dif. type of connection also looks like heat shrink.
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Old 02-12-2017, 12:29 PM   #11
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Okay. Yes it's probably 12-2. It has three total wires, black, white, copper.

The splice kit has 4 slots for possible connectors, I used three, one for each wire mentioned above.

Put wire in connector, screw down to secure each side. Wrap with mastic tape. Use heat gun to shrink protector heat shrink on top.

It is a bomber connection, no way it's coming lose or undone, even with vibration of driving.

I was worried that it wasn't rated for use inside and had to be buried etc.

If I had to undo it it would be a pain, but I have easy access to it.
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Old 02-12-2017, 12:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutboy View Post
Okay. Yes it's probably 12-2. It has three total wires, black, white, copper.

The splice kit has 4 slots for possible connectors, I used three, one for each wire mentioned above.

Put wire in connector, screw down to secure each side. Wrap with mastic tape. Use heat gun to shrink protector heat shrink on top.

It is a bomber connection, no way it's coming lose or undone, even with vibration of driving.

I was worried that it wasn't rated for use inside and had to be buried etc.

If I had to undo it it would be a pain, but I have easy access to it.
I would leave it alone and not worry about it.
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Old 02-12-2017, 01:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutboy View Post
Okay. Yes it's probably 12-2. It has three total wires, black, white, copper.

The splice kit has 4 slots for possible connectors, I used three, one for each wire mentioned above.

Put wire in connector, screw down to secure each side. Wrap with mastic tape. Use heat gun to shrink protector heat shrink on top.

It is a bomber connection, no way it's coming lose or undone, even with vibration of driving.

I was worried that it wasn't rated for use inside and had to be buried etc.

If I had to undo it it would be a pain, but I have easy access to it.
I would add: 'pot' the connector, using silicone grease, or RTV before applying the heat shrink. Makes it really waterproof.
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Old 02-12-2017, 02:05 PM   #14
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Nicely done, looks great.

I believe it will suffice in your AS and last a long time. Secure it and enjoy.
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Old 02-12-2017, 08:59 PM   #15
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I can't tell from the picture, but I think inline splices are best if done with staggered cuts far enough apart to prevent them from overlapping and possibly rubbing on themselves and maybe eventually causing a bare spot and shorting out. I always use shrink connectors and shrink tubing and plenty of it.
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Old 03-14-2017, 09:17 AM   #16
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What about splicing a 10awg cable? I was just faced with rerouting shore power cable from an internal surge suppressor I had previously installed. To do so I had cut the cable and placed the SS in line. When I pulled it out I then had a shortened input cable and thought I may have to splice. Didn't want to use the yellow twist connectors, thought it might not be good to have up to 30A coming thru them. Didn't know about these splices, however I don't see splices for 10awg wire. Bottom line was that there was enough slack in cable that I didn't have to splice.
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