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Old 01-17-2017, 10:52 AM   #21
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Why the suitcase?

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Originally Posted by gator.bigfoot View Post
Forget the suitcase just get a couple of the flexible panels. There just 5 lbs. And they don't break and are flat enough to store anywhere.
I can not argue with the cost savings you can get by a "do it yourself" solar set up. My neighbor has one he purchased at Harbor Freight along with controller, cables, etc. After camping with us a few times, he switched to a Go Power larger model (120W) with the "suitcase", for the convenience and ease of set up. The nice thing about this configuration is the built in spring handle, built in hinges, folding legs, cables, battery selector, controller, and quick disconnect/or clamp on power cables come already to go. Set up takes <3 min. Not married to Go Power, but works for us.
https://www.amazon.com/Go-Power-GP-P...go+power+solar
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Old 01-20-2017, 10:02 AM   #22
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Gator,
What kind of stands do you use to prop up your flex panels? Is there a margin at the edge where you can attach hardware, drill holes? Is wind a problem blowing the panels over? 5 pounds sounds attractive.
Russ
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:33 AM   #23
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I don't have anything at the moment. I just lean the panel against a log or whatever is around. A piece of string and a tent peg keeps it there. I was thinking of using an old tent and canabolizing the poles. Or just buy some poles to make a custom frame. Again tent pegs can keep them there. Either way it will be a lot lighter and easier to store than a big heavy suitcase type of panel. Also these flex panels come in 100 watt sizes for a fraction of the cost of the the suitcase. So in my mind I'm always ahead.

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Old 01-23-2017, 08:38 PM   #24
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Just received a 20% off on Zamp solar products today. I have used a portable Zamp panel when I had a teardrop trailer.

Check it out.

http://www.solardealz.com/Portable-RV-Solar-s/1817...

Dave
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Old 01-23-2017, 09:41 PM   #25
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Gator,
What kind of stands do you use to prop up your flex panels? Is there a margin at the edge where you can attach hardware, drill holes? Is wind a problem blowing the panels over? 5 pounds sounds attractive.
Russ
I made a stand out of 3/4" PVC. Very easy and I can tilt it toward the sun angle or move it in the sun direction, if I'm around to mess with it. I have a 100 watt Renogy.
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Old 01-23-2017, 10:35 PM   #26
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...The roof panels are ... virtually theft proof though, and can charge while in motion or storage....
I don't follow that logic well. If one is "in motion"...meaning driving ... then the TV will re-charge the coach batteries much faster/more efficient than roof mounted solar, IMO. In fact, for the OP, if you don't plan to boondock in one location for more than a day or so you may not need any addt'l charging capacity at all.
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:45 AM   #27
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then the TV will re-charge the coach batteries much faster/more efficient than roof mounted solar, IMO. .
I don't know about your TV, but mine does not have a large AWG going to my trailer plug. Even if it did, I wouldn't trust that amount of power going through it. It would melt the plug. I've got 4 gauge coming from the roof and my panels are well above 18V charging my batteries which will charge batteries faster than my alternator at 14V running through 12 gauge (at best) through a poor quality plug 25+ feet in length. I would think that most peoples setup is similar and that the roof panels would charge a whole lot faster than the TV.
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Old 01-24-2017, 09:15 AM   #28
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My TV is capable of providing roughly 14 Amps to the AS, as reported by the TriMetric panel. So actual delivery to the AS is somewhere north of that, as the TriMetric reports net amps replenishing the batts. In addition, the TV is providing for the items which are "on" in the trailer. Gross input to the AS is somewhere around 17 to 18 Amps with batts in need of a bulk stage charge.
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Old 01-24-2017, 09:40 AM   #29
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I think if you need more power, make your own ground panels. I've been highly disappointed with the cost of pre-fabricated units. Typically you could put together a 100 W panel with a small PWM controller for under $200. These kits are readily available on Amazon. And it is true that they are much more effective at providing power Than fixed panels because you can direct them at the sun during the day. Personally I've been very disappointed with the charging capacity through towing. In the original factory condition, the converter is horrible. the batteries that were provided with the trailer were always under charged and provided little power. In fact, they were permanently damaged. With the solar panel unit, and a charger that has a typical three stage algorithm, you will be able to treat lead acid batteries much more appropriately.
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Old 01-24-2017, 09:47 AM   #30
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I think if you need more power, make your own ground panels. I've been highly disappointed with the cost of pre-fabricated units. Typically you could put together a 100 W panel with a small PWM controller for under $200. These kits are readily available on Amazon. And it is true that they are much more effective at providing power Than fixed panels because you can direct them at the sun during the day. Personally I've been very disappointed with the charging capacity through towing. In the original factory condition, the converter is horrible. the batteries that were provided with the trailer were always under charged and provided little power. In fact, they were permanently damaged. With the solar panel unit, and a charger that has a typical three stage algorithm, you will be able to treat lead acid batteries much more appropriately.
I'm confused in your reply. The converter isn't doing anything while driving down the road. The TV's alternator is charging the batteries directly. If I have been dry camping and the batteries are at 50%, 8 hours of driving might...and might only get them back to full. But they would be very close to full.
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Old 01-24-2017, 11:06 AM   #31
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Yes. I can see why there is confusion. I was merely listing reasons why a solar charge controller and solar based panels is effective at charging and maintaining your batteries in a healthy state. I use my trailer in a way where I do more camping than driving so I never found driving as a significant contributor to maintaining my batteries. Could it sustain the batteries on a long distance dash? Sure. In addition when I've been on hook ups, I've never seen an absorption phase on my charger when I observe the voltage meter. It may be a hole in my knowledge base but I didn't think alternators took batteries through an absorption phase.
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Old 01-24-2017, 12:02 PM   #32
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Yes. I can see why there is confusion. I was merely listing reasons why a solar charge controller and solar based panels is effective at charging and maintaining your batteries in a healthy state. I use my trailer in a way where I do more camping than driving so I never found driving as a significant contributor to maintaining my batteries. Could it sustain the batteries on a long distance dash? Sure. In addition when I've been on hook ups, I've never seen an absorption phase on my charger when I observe the voltage meter. It may be a hole in my knowledge base but I didn't think alternators took batteries through an absorption phase.
Yes, the latest generation of computer controlled charging systems have routines similar to the 4 stage converters. At GM it was phased in, but primarily since at least 2014.
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Old 01-24-2017, 02:08 PM   #33
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A modern TV alternator puts out more than FOURTEEN TIMES the charge rate that a 100 watt solar panel does. A 100 watt panel (IF it could operate at 100%) puts out about 8 Amps.
A pickup truck these days puts out between 100 Amps and 180 Amps, although it delivers thru the umbilical about 20-30 Amps...in other words up to THREE TIMES the solar panel.
Unless the drive time between campsites is less than 3-4 hours, the TV will easily outstrip that solar panel, and unless the OP's family is more wasteful with electricity than my family is, Dual Group 24 batteries should recharge handily in 2-3 hours via the TV.

Even so, while sitting in the campsite, while hooked up to the TV, the batts can be recharged, and in-fact, the coach can be completely run off the TV.
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Old 01-24-2017, 03:26 PM   #34
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very interesting. thanks for bringing those points out. it's good to hear about different strategies. So what do you think the role of solar is? How do manage power when dry camping for more than 2 days?
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Old 01-24-2017, 04:01 PM   #35
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Will it be raining those 2 days? (The TV will still recharge the coach batts.)

I consider solar useful for long-term dry-camping when the TV is unavailable, perhaps because we are too far from civilization that gasoline is inconvenient.

In other words, I cannot find a use for solar that my TV or a portable generator cannot take care of much more efficiently, with the exception of long-term storage without available shore-power.
Since my long term storage is at the end of my ranch-house inside a metal bldg.... I don't find solar fits my usage patterns. When I dry-camp, I recharge with the TV or a generator every 3 or 4 days. Takes about 2 hours.
(In fairness, we don't use CPAPs or television/radio unless it's to check weather for short periods and we have LED lighting.)
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Old 01-24-2017, 07:20 PM   #36
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For my style of camping which is usually within 100 miles from home, solar is the clear winner. When I first got the trailer I did some desert camping trips relying on a Honda 2000i to recharge the battery. It took about 4 hours of gen time in the morning to put the battery back up to full. Alternately I tried using the tugs alternator to recharge. The tugs battery charging ability was a little faster than the Honda, but way too inefficient to my reasoning. I just can't justify running a vehicle engine, nor a generator just to top off a RV battery. I soon put together a portable solar panel charging system to do the job. 2 Renogy 100 watt panels with home made kickstands feeding a trailer mounted MPPT controller. The thing just works so good it should be illegal. Quiet, no smell, will outlast any gas engine, and makes me smile. Only if I have a really dark gray day would I have to resort to the Honda for charging. Living in San Diego pretty much eliminates that though. I did run 8 gauge wire from the tug battery to the 7 way for those long driving days charging duty, but have yet to use it. We are sure lucky to have access to all this cool technology.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:40 PM   #37
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interesting reading everybody posts on subject. I will be dry camping next weekend in parking lot at Osceola Heritage Park for Run away music fest. I plan to use 2800 watt Yamaha generator in morning for coffee or using Microwave and then using Renogy 100 watt suitcase to maintain the batteries the rest of day. I plan use Zamp port on side to hook up Renogy solar suitcase, using Sae quick disconnect adapter. Based on responses on forum, we should be good shape maintaining our factory batteries
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:28 PM   #38
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be sure to put a titling bracket on the solar panel to maximize solar input to the panels .
early/late season and northern camping will minimize solar energy. titling helps
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