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Old 08-02-2006, 07:52 PM   #1
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Question for you generator gurus

I've read the threads and I have a theory. Let me know if I'm right or wrong.

Theory;
I have a Honda 3000eu. My theory is that it will start and run my A/C if I don't run any other appliances. So if I switch the fridge to gas I can run the A/C and any lights I want without problem. True or false.
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:18 PM   #2
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hi goin camping

the eu3000 is rated for 25 amps peak and 23.3? continuous...approx

you have a 11,000 or 13,500 btu duo therm right?

these require somthing just under 20 amps at start up and less while running..12-14 or so?

so yes the honda 3k will work fine...and as i recall 6-9 amps left over....

cheers
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:20 PM   #3
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With a newer 19' trailer with energy efficient appliances I would think a eu 3000 would run almost everything. I use one on my 34. Mine is much older with energy robbing appliances so it barely runs the AC and very little else.
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goin camping
I've read the threads and I have a theory. Let me know if I'm right or wrong.

Theory;
I have a Honda 3000eu. My theory is that it will start and run my A/C if I don't run any other appliances. So if I switch the fridge to gas I can run the A/C and any lights I want without problem. True or false.
GC,

3000 watts should be WAY more than you need to start and run your 11K BTU unit. Check in your manual or the Dometic web site for the 'Full Load Amps' of your unit and then multiply that # by 120 (volts). That will give you the watts that it needs to run. Anything left over is free, and you might be surprised at how much is left.....
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:30 PM   #5
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well in watts the 11/13.5s need approx 1800-2000 watts continuous....peaks 10% more...

that's why a eu2000 is a tad too little
they are rated at 1600 continuous...
with peak output just a tad too little for a/c startup....

cheers
2air'

here is a good thread started by vajeep, on this issue...
posts 7,8,15,19...but it's all good...
http://www.airforums.com/forum...t=honda+eu3000
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:52 PM   #6
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Your theory is correct.

You probably know but; don't try to start or shut down the gen set with the AC in the on position.

Garry
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:27 PM   #7
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My A/C is 13.5. When the A/C and the fridge are going the little yellow light on the genset flickers. Thus my theory. Thanks all.
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:39 PM   #8
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Yamaha 2800

I have this Yamaha generator,it runs the air 13500 and the fridge,I do turn the fridge off for start up. I choose this generator because it was the single smallest generator to run an RV air. Not quite as quite as the honda but pretty close plus it weighs only 64 lbs. about 20lbs. more than the honda 2000 and much less than the 3000. Darrell
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:48 PM   #9
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Darrell Root, Are you going to the Nor Cal Rally in Paso Robles?
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goin camping
the little yellow light on the genset flickers. Thus my theory. Thanks all.
i don't own the eu3000 but isn't the overload light red?
mine is green=good, red=overload or short. low oil is the other bulb...

how long since service? spark plug, air filter?
be sure to use the proper grade gas...low octane will cause the gen set to struggle.

cheers
2air'

it's a slow night....
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:51 PM   #11
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So how cool is cool?

the problem: 13,500 BTU air conditioner.

2 ea honda 2000 = 999 + 999 = 2000
and you gotta set em both up and run em together.

1 ea honda 3000 = 1999
runs great and little set up, just don't try to move it by yourself.


So what about?

1 ea honda 2000 and a new airconditioner in the 8000 BTU range?
999 + 499 = 1498
easy to move, set up and run, and cheaper.
So how cool do you want to be?
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
i don't own the eu3000 but isn't the overload light red?
mine is green=good, red=overload or short. low oil is the other bulb...

how long since service? spark plug, air filter?
be sure to use the proper grade gas...low octane will cause the gen set to struggle.

cheers
2air'

it's a slow night....
Genset has 3 lights. Looks just like a traffic light a flickering yellow is a heads up. Unit is on its service cycle and not due for a few months.
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Old 08-02-2006, 10:06 PM   #13
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8000btu

Do they make an 8000 btu a/c, and I don't think it would be to cool unless you were in an 16' bambi. Darrell
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Old 11-22-2006, 02:15 PM   #14
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Ready to buy EF2800

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darrell Root
I have this Yamaha generator,it runs the air 13500 and the fridge,I do turn the fridge off for start up. I choose this generator because it was the single smallest generator to run an RV air. Not quite as quite as the honda but pretty close plus it weighs only 64 lbs. about 20lbs. more than the honda 2000 and much less than the 3000. Darrell
Well, I'm [almost] done himing & hawing over which generator to buy. The "no brainer" part was that I needed an inverter type since I'll A) want to run electronics like a computer, B) It's considerably more portable (weight & size) and C) much quiter for a given wattage.

While there may be others out there I'm pretty sure I'll be best off sticking with the major players Yamaha or Honda. I'd really hoped to "get away with" the Honda EU2000 but it's just a tad too small to be able to comfortably handle the home fridge during power outages and I'm afraid would be a real stretch for the TT A/C on hot days up in the Cascade mountains. Unfortunately Honda seems to jump from their 2,000W model up to their 3,000W job which is out of the league which I consider portable. A dual EU2000 setup would let me buy one now and one later but; that's expensive, would be a real hassle with cables and hoses when running on propane, and really takes up a ton of space.

So, I'm "stuck" with the Yamaha. The EF2400 is sexy but it too is marginal for home backup and the TT A/C. It's quite but I suspect a lot of that is because of the sound insulation which adds weight, bulk and $$$. It's also a bit of spec engineering since they rate the 2400 at 1/4 load instead of 1/2 load like all the others. Again their 3000W model is beyond what I'm able to carry.

Fortunately Yamaha has the ER2800 which appears to be "just right". Can someone tell me how to determine what model of A/C I have on my '78 Argosy 24? I'm guessing it's 13,000BTU tops, maybe less. It runs (i.e. does't trip the breaker) on a 15A house circuit even over a long 12GA extension cord. The EF2800 spec's out a tad on the loud side when compared to a Honda but a sound deadening "dog house" would likely solve that if it turns out to be a problem. At only 64# that's a huge plus. I also like that it has the 30A receptacle for plugging in the TT cord directly. The lack of addition shrouding might also be advantagous with regards to propane conversion.

So, looking at links other folks have posted I'd hoped to buy directly from US Carb. Unfortunately they seem to be ~$500 more than Speedway or Wiseguy Sales. So even adding on the ~$200 for the adapter kit they're considerably more expensive. Now the big question, should I go with the "Bi-Fuel" (propane/natural gas) or the "Tri-Fuel" (propane/natural gas/gasoline)? I don't expect to ever run on gasoline. But then, in an emergency it might be handy to have that option. The other selling points for the Tri-fuel is that it doesn't require drilling the carb (important since I'll likely be doing it myself and might botch it) and B) if for some reason I don't like the set-up the resale would be better. If I read the info right on the US Carb website it would be trivial at some point in the future to rejet and convert to propane only. I guess the only downside might be a slight performance hit going with the inlet adapter vs rejetting which if I read it right only really effects peak output.

Any other choices when it comes to adapters for propane? I'm confident the US Carb conversion works well enough but it's not the cleanest install and buying locally would be a big plus in terms of hand holding when it comes to the conversion.

-Bernie
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