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Old 03-16-2014, 08:19 PM   #15
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ok. Thank you....

so now here is the question...

What energy star fridge should i get. I am not...I repeat NOT...doing the propane fridges. I have heard some absolutely horrible stories about them, and they kind of defeat my purpose with the life i am living.

I want a solar unit. So i am looking at energy star fridges, this one in particular...

http://hhgregg.scene7.com/is/content...gg/HNDE03VSpdf

it is very low amp usage, and will be enough room in my remodel.

Remember i am going to be running 300w panels with 1000w inverter.
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Old 03-16-2014, 08:21 PM   #16
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or

Daewoo 3.1 CuFt Energy Star Compact Refrigerator with Separate Top Freezer
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:35 PM   #17
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I don't know if you have look at Vitrifrigo products. They have AC/DC refrigeration units with various configurations. This is what I am putting under the counter in my total remodel. Good luck.
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:56 PM   #18
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http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/yago102.html

Here's a start. I googled [off grid refrigerator]

If you find a 12 volt unit, you'll save the inverter losses.
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:48 PM   #19
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What drboyd said.

You want a Danfoss compressor fridge if you don't want to deal with an ammonia-absorption fridge. If you really want to go super-efficient and you're moving things around, you might look into the top-loading units, since they take less of a hit when you open the lid than a front-loading unit takes when you open the door.

I'm planning to use a Danfoss fridge in the trailer I'm renovating because they cost about the same as an ammonia absorption fridge but work better in hot weather, and nice new propane fridges still use 12v power for the controls. If I had an old-school dumb propane fridge with no 12v control board to die and/or eat battery (like the one in my 24' Argosy) I'd probably keep it. It's marginal in really hot weather, but I've learned not to camp in weather like that.

Yes, the Danfoss fridges cost more than the crappy 120v dorm fridges. TANSTAAFL.
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:40 AM   #20
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Sold!
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:42 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX View Post
What drboyd said.

You want a Danfoss compressor fridge if you don't want to deal with an ammonia-absorption fridge. If you really want to go super-efficient and you're moving things around, you might look into the top-loading units, since they take less of a hit when you open the lid than a front-loading unit takes when you open the door.

I'm planning to use a Danfoss fridge in the trailer I'm renovating because they cost about the same as an ammonia absorption fridge but work better in hot weather, and nice new propane fridges still use 12v power for the controls. If I had an old-school dumb propane fridge with no 12v control board to die and/or eat battery (like the one in my 24' Argosy) I'd probably keep it. It's marginal in really hot weather, but I've learned not to camp in weather like that.

Yes, the Danfoss fridges cost more than the crappy 120v dorm fridges. TANSTAAFL.

Also look at the Isotherm units from Indel Webasto Marine. They are at iwmarineusa.com. Great units that I have had great used reviews.
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:23 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by tallredboned View Post
ok. Thank you....

so now here is the question...

What energy star fridge should i get. I am not...I repeat NOT...doing the propane fridges. I have heard some absolutely horrible stories about them, and they kind of defeat my purpose with the life i am living.

I want a solar unit. So i am looking at energy star fridges, this one in particular...

http://hhgregg.scene7.com/is/content...gg/HNDE03VSpdf

it is very low amp usage, and will be enough room in my remodel.

Remember i am going to be running 300w panels with 1000w inverter.
That one uses a very high amount of energy, 420 kWh a year. The one in your second post uses far less, 270 kWh a year. There is a lot of difference between them, the 270 one being much better.

Also remember that most of the small refrigerators use the sides and top for heat dissipation, and must be free standing units, not built into a cabinet with no clearance on the sides. You need a refrigerator with coils on the back. If you don't see them you cannot build the refrigerator into a cabinet.
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:27 AM   #23
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<snip>
Also remember that most of the small refrigerators use the sides and top for heat dissipation, and must be free standing units, not built into a cabinet with no clearance on the sides. You need a refrigerator with coils on the back. If you don't see them you cannot build the refrigerator into a cabinet.
You also can't block air flow past the coils on the back. The air has to have a clear path in at the bottom, up along the coils (as hot air rises) and out at the top of the coils.
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:35 PM   #24
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OK I am almost done with my decisions...research and reading everything i can find while i restore this airstream;

I have decided on this system from Canada:

Solar Panel Kit Panneau Solaire 300W 300 w Watt 3 100 w MPPT Poly 12V RV | eBay

I spoke to everyone i could and got some really good advice...and some really bad advice also.

That part is scary.

I am still a little confused as to why i need an inverter if the trailer already has outlets?

do you plug everything into the inverter?

that makes no sense.

I am now on to the final questions...

Battery size.

I am looking a 2 12v batteries on ebay...

Power Sonic 12V 35Ah U1 Deep Cycle AGM Solar Battery Also Replaces 33ah 34AH 3 | eBay

I was told i need 2 6v batteries, so i do not understand what the difference would be with 18v panels...so i am going with the larger battery.

Yes that may sound rhetorical but it is a question.
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:25 PM   #25
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re: the inverter: All of the 120v outlets in your '76 Tradewind (at least in original configuration) are supplied only by power coming in from the "shore power" cord. The battery (one in the original configuration) only powers the lights, vent fan, furnace, water pump and the 12v "cigarette lighter" style outlets. Without an inverter, you wouldn't have any 120v AC available unless you're plugged in.

In the simplest application of an inverter, you could just plug in 120v loads directly to the inverter as needed. You can in theory plug the shore-power cord into the inverter *IF* you are careful to disconnect the converter-charger and assure that the refrigerator and water heater are using propane only. The next option would be to add an outlet or two dedicated to the inverter, which is how new Airstreams are configured.

re: recommendations about battery options: The 2 6v batteries in series offer long life and good storage capacity compared to a pair of 12v batteries of similar exterior dimensions using similar technology. The panel voltage has nothing to do directly with the battery voltage, the charge controller manages that for you, charging the batteries at appropriate voltages even as the panels' output voltage varies somewhat in different conditions.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:17 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by tallredboned View Post
Battery size.

I am looking a 2 12v batteries on ebay...

Power Sonic 12V 35Ah U1 Deep Cycle AGM Solar Battery Also Replaces 33ah 34AH 3 | eBay

I was told i need 2 6v batteries, so i do not understand what the difference would be with 18v panels...so i am going with the larger battery.

Yes that may sound rhetorical but it is a question.
The 35 Amp hour batteries you show are way too small. Even one group 24 battery has about the same capacity as two of those small ones. And most current Airstreams come with two group 24 batteries as standard equipment, and I consider them as marginal.

Two 6 volt golf cart batteries in series (to produce 12 volts) have a total capacity of about 220 Amp hours, which is 3 times the capacity of the two little 35 amp hour ones you have mentioned. Golf cart batteries at Costco or Sam's club are in the range of $90 each.
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:55 PM   #27
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aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!!

So dedicated 120 inverted powered wall sockets is the next question. I want to run a TV on occasions...so i need to plug that into the inverter?

Second i am going with the Girard instant hot heater and the fridge is already 12v.

So how i am looking at those plugs as wired directly to the inverter...or did i miss something?
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:01 AM   #28
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aaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh!!!!

So dedicated 120 inverted powered wall sockets is the next question. I want to run a TV on occasions...so i need to plug that into the inverter?

Second i am going with the Girard instant hot heater and the fridge is already 12v.

So how i am looking at those plugs as wired directly to the inverter...or did i miss something?
There's some hit and miss designing going on. Whoever is designing your solar system ought to have knowledge of RV electrical requirements, and that solar will be your only power source.

Certainly no expert whatsoever, but I would be surprised if this is practical or even possible without propane for heating requirements. Am I underestimating RV solar?
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