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Old 07-07-2016, 11:50 AM   #43
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There always is the question as to whether the regulator is sized properly to handle the volume necessary to serve the furnace, water heater, and generator dependent upon watt needs.

For my part coming off the high pressure side keeps the connection out of the weather and allows the T to stay out of the road debris area.

Jack
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:27 PM   #44
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Just as a follow up I am finishing up the natural gas side of the hookup at home so I can run the generator on that fuel if we experience a power outage. I already had a 3/8" quick connect outlet on my rear deck that I use for my BBQ grill. I went over to Lowes and bought a BBQ quick connect hose to use with the generator. So if I need power I just remove the hose for the BBQ and pop in the generator hose.

On the generator itself I have a 3/8" flared fitting that fits into the generator diaphragm. The good side is that the propane hose supplied by US Carburetor fits that fitting on the generator. The new hose for natural gas also fits that same fitting. So if I need to put the generator into home service, all I have to do is use a wrench to tighten the flared fitting to the generator. If I am out with the Classic, it's just a matter of connecting the flared fitting from the propane hose.

Here a few pictures. The first being the generator with the flared fitting on the regulator. The next two are the hoses. The natural gas hose is light grey while the propane hose is black. You will see the propane hose fitting screws into a tank. The NG hose has the quick disconnect fitting on one end. The box is from the NG hose.

All fittings and hoses support a 3/8" diameter which is fine for the Yamaha 2000iSv2. I'm feeding the quick disconnect with a 1/2" gas line. 3/8" is sufficient to power this generator at full load.

I'm now kicking around adding a transfer switch or an isolation switch at home. The isolation switch has the advantage of allowing me to protect any circuit in the house dependent upon the watt draw. The isolation switch however must be specific for the type of breaker box in my home. Then it's just a matter of running a new line from the outside connector into a new 20 amp breaker in the existing box. If I need the gen all I do is turn off the main breaker in the box, turn on the breaker that connects the line to the generator. I would also turn off all the individual breakers and only turn on those that I want on that stay within the wattage limitations of the generator. There is a plate that moves that prevents the main and breaker for the generator from being active at the same time. The transfer switch would be a little less work on activation, but more work for installation since it would involve removing the existing breakers on the circuits I want to protect and connecting those circuits to the transfer switch box which controls the power source for those circuits.

Jack
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Old 08-10-2016, 07:30 PM   #45
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They make manual transfer switches that allow you to select the loads you want to put on the generator. More controllable and a lot cheaper than the automatic ones. Look on the web for them.


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Old 08-10-2016, 08:01 PM   #46
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They make manual transfer switches that allow you to select the loads you want to put on the generator. More controllable and a lot cheaper than the automatic ones. Look on the web for them.


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The one I am looking at comes from http://www.genconnexdirect.net/gener...r_switches.htm

It allows 8 circuits to be powered and you can chose what are "critical" (4) and what are comfort (4) circuits. What's nice about these is the fact that the transfer switch will automatically change from utility to generator upon the unit detecting loss of utility power and presence of generator power. Technically if you are away, a neighbor could plug in the generator and once the switch detects generator power, the switch throws. It will not however, transfer back to utility unless utility is present and the generator power is removed. No one has to enter your home. About $350 or so without labor to do the installation. Transfer switch also has a delay to allow the power to reach 60 cycles.
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Old 08-10-2016, 10:07 PM   #47
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Sounds decent!


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Old 09-06-2016, 05:21 PM   #48
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Jumper cable

For those who own the Yamaha 2000 watt generator you know that the power outlets are 20 amps. Obviously to plug your trailer 30 amp plug into that generator you need a plug converter or pigtail adapter cable. What's hard to find however is a true 20 amp male end. Most everyone builds a 30 amp female side and a 15 amp side. I've melted down some of those cheap 15 amp plug converters or they become very warm. I have found a company that makes a pigtail that truly provides a 20 amp connect with the proper 20 amp plug. I just got mine today and am very impressed.

Here is a link to the site and the plug. Register for their email and you get a 10% discount. Prices include shipping. http://furrion.com/product/pigtail-a...adapter-black/

Jack
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Old 09-14-2016, 07:33 PM   #49
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Thanks, Jack. Ordered one today!
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:23 PM   #50
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Jack, have you changed the oil yet? I did recently and was surprised at the medium dark grey color. Does propane react differently than gasoline and cause this, as opposed to a browner color like car oil?

I also got a setup to run our 1k unit off a BBQ propane tank, just in time for Matthew if it comes this far North.

Did your natural gas installation work out OK?

Thanks,

Peter

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. . .
I went with the 2k unit . . .
. . .
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Old 10-05-2016, 04:29 PM   #51
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I only have 6.9 hours on the generator at this point, the bulk of it coming from a 4 hour emergency run about 6 weeks ago when we lost power about 6 hours into my wife's dialysis treatment. I ran off a 7 lb. BBQ tank. It was interesting was that I had issues getting it to start on propane. Last time I had tried propane, the engine was still warm from a gasoline run. I finally tried about half choke and it fired right up. So lesson learned when the engine is cold, I need to prime and use a little choke.

I bought a natural gas hose but have yet to try this fuel source out. I will try probably next week. Right now we are on our final outing of the year. Generator is with me just in case. I'll post once I try natural gas. Probably will be later on next week.

As far as the oil color goes, I would expect the oil to be lighter color than a gas only situation. Probably because of the carbon content of gasoline which turns the oil darker. Also note that we broke the engine in on gasoline which might make the oil a little darker than if we had run straight propane for the first 20 hours.

Jack
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Old 10-06-2016, 01:18 AM   #52
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Thanks Jack. Our 1k unit has its own instructions for a cold start -- to use only the primer button and not the choke. For the long 12' extension hose I made up to reach the back of the trailer, I got an extra male quick-connect fitting, which I insert, and then open up the (low pressure) propane line and run the gas until it displaces the air in the hose. The 2-3' hose attached to the gen still has air in it, so I imagine the first few pulls on the starting cord are mainly getting clean propane to the point of ignition. Once warm and charged with pure propane in the line, one pull does it.

Look forward to your reports on natural gas and oil change.

Peter
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