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Old 05-11-2010, 09:54 AM   #1
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Kohler 7000 oil leak

The Kohler 7000 on my 1984 345 M/H is leaking oil...
In poking around I see that the Oil filler/dipstick tube is kinda loose, but as it is loose down under the engine I cant see what the deal is...
Anyone have any knowledge?
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Old 05-11-2010, 10:53 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
The Kohler 7000 on my 1984 345 M/H is leaking oil...
In poking around I see that the Oil filler/dipstick tube is kinda loose, but as it is loose down under the engine I cant see what the deal is...
Anyone have any knowledge?
I can't say specifically whats causing your leak but if the fill tube is loose you're going to have some sort of leak there. Take a look at the following thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159...ide-33447.html

You can see on our Kohler 7000 where the oil filler tube goes. Kinda sucks if you ask me. To fix properly you're probably going to have to pull the generator out of the compartment. One of the reasons I installed drawer slides for the generator.

Keep us posted as to what you find.

Brad
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:31 AM   #3
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Awesome job!
Yep, as your photo shows, the filler tube goes down and under, with only a hole cut in the undertray for the drain. Mine seems looseas a whole assembly to whatever it connects to, I assume the crankcase.
So, to drop the genset, there is a set of bolts?
Did you cut the outer skin?
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Old 05-11-2010, 11:46 AM   #4
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Thanks!

I think mine actually has a slightly leak in that area as well. Next time I decide to pull the genset I'll look into what needs to be done.

The only modifications I had to make to the original installation was 4 new holes in the pan that holds the genset for the two angle iron sections that hold the sliders. I also had to drill 4 holes on the genset pan itself for the sliders to bolt to. The genset itself includes its own mounting pan. I just raised it up 1/2" and mounted it on sliders.

I can have the generator slid out in about 10 minutes anytime. The hardest part is disconnecting the two exhaust pipes from the genset and dropping them down to clear the bottom of the genset pan. Then just slide it out to work on it. Oh yeah, you have to unbolt the outer door and remove it which I think is a total of 6 sheet metal screws.

It made an amazing difference in being able to work on the genset. Well worth the effort it took to install.

Brad
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Old 05-11-2010, 12:28 PM   #5
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Great info.
My inner exhaust downpipe to muffler connection came loose on my maiden trip while we were driving and running the genset for the microwave... freaked me out!
I will take a good look at it when I get over to the storage later today.
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Old 05-13-2010, 12:40 PM   #6
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Now I went and looked at mine your thread makes more sense!
For now I will take tools over and take off the outer skin lower panel and see if i can get at the pipe better.
I will have more questions later about your drawer slide mod... its gotta be done!
I see the thread is older.. how did the insulation hold up? I was thinking a layer od FATMAT, then something softer with a heat sheild that is wipe clean on top... plus a layer of fatmat on the door..
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Old 05-13-2010, 02:01 PM   #7
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Now I went and looked at mine your thread makes more sense!
For now I will take tools over and take off the outer skin lower panel and see if i can get at the pipe better.
I will have more questions later about your drawer slide mod... its gotta be done!
As far as generator servicing goes installing it on a sliding tray made a huge difference. I've had to remove it twice since I put the tray in and it made things SO much easier.

Quote:
I see the thread is older.. how did the insulation hold up? I was thinking a layer od FATMAT, then something softer with a heat sheild that is wipe clean on top... plus a layer of fatmat on the door..
Insulation looks as good as it did the day I put it in. I was afraid it would deteriorate but it's held up very well. I don't think I'll have to touch it again for a long time. Plus it was cheap. It's just a piece of the silver backed 1/2" foam insulation used in house construction.

Brad
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:49 AM   #8
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Its raining in California...
Can you remember what length the drawer slides were so i can get some ordered... did you get the locking version?
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Old 06-07-2010, 03:33 PM   #9
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Finally found time to pull off the side cover...
Confirming that the drain/fill/dipstick tub is loose and leaking oil where it meets the engine case, Hoping it is not stripped.
Space is really tight, and I need to drain the oil, and pull apart the drain pipe to see whats going on really. I hope its just adding some PTFE tape to the threads and tightening...
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:47 PM   #10
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Its raining in California...
Can you remember what length the drawer slides were so i can get some ordered... did you get the locking version?
Sure don't remember off the top of my head, but I can try and get a measurement sometime this week.

I did not get locking slides. I just fabricated a positive lock so the tray can't move when its slid into place.

Brd
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Finally found time to pull off the side cover...
Confirming that the drain/fill/dipstick tub is loose and leaking oil where it meets the engine case, Hoping it is not stripped.
Space is really tight, and I need to drain the oil, and pull apart the drain pipe to see whats going on really. I hope its just adding some PTFE tape to the threads and tightening...
I'm hoping you come up with a solution as ours is leaking in the same spot. Keep us posted

Brad
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Old 06-19-2010, 01:22 PM   #12
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Well, yesterday I drained the oil... and was planning to fix it.

I can now confirm that its leaking bad, and its not as easy as I hoped.

I started by removing the vertical dipstick tube with a pipe wrench. It was crazy tight and the pipe wrench dug in hard, gouging the pipe, and stripping the paint off..
After that it got worse... The horizontal pipe was so tight I could not move it...
I got creative, and sawed thru the next elbow at 45deg,knowing that it is a cheap off the shelf iron pipe fitting that I could replace... I was hoping that it would just unscrew then...
Nope, the oil drain plug fitting(a T piece) fouls the engine mount bracket, and wont turn!
I gave up then, as I will need to unbolt the Engine from its mounts, and lift it high enough to get at it.
At this stage, I think I am gonna pull it out and do the whole drawer slide conversion at the same time!
Kinda frustrated!
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Old 06-19-2010, 02:14 PM   #13
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I've had problems with thin steel tubes leaking where they enter the block w/ Onans as well... The right answer would have been an O-ring, or a dimpled ring in the tube coated w/ RTV , but that was too high tech at the time, apparently.

Once the tube is out and cleaned, you may wish to try Permatex Hi-Tack sealer on reassembly. I'd not follow the directions exactly and instead assemble while still wet. Another approach is to try a penetrating grade thread locker such as Permatex Green thread locker or Loctite 290; the latter choices might work w/o disassembly depending on the cleanliness of the joint. Certainly using brake cleaner on the gap wouldn't hurt.

- Bart
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Old 06-19-2010, 02:51 PM   #14
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Yes, good call.
From what I can see, the tube is long and heavy, and the clamp that holds it in place allows movement, and so it starts to rock.
I was concerned about putting to much force on the length of pipe in case I cracked the crankcase or stripped the threads.. need to finess it a bit..
Not sure how I am gonna fix it yet, needed more tools than I had, so will tackle it maybe tomorrow, and get a better shot
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