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Old 05-19-2011, 03:05 PM   #15
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Time to update this issue, as its a common leak area, and others need a solution too.

The problem is that the Oil Pipe has a T piece in the system, which houses the Oil Drain plug. Because of the tight confines, the T piece flange fouls the Engine mount, so you cannot unscrew it!


I even sawed off the pipe so that I could get a pipe wrench on it... still no go..


I am working on a fix...
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Old 07-30-2011, 03:13 PM   #16
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Moving forward soon with the fix, so getting ready.

Service items for the 7000w Kohler Genset..
Fram Air Filter #CA6605 $9.99
Fram Oil filter #PH3600 $3.99
Got both from the local Autozone, although they had to get the airfilter from the warehouse. Total cost was
FYI, the Filters removed from the unit were both NAPA filters:
NAPA GOLD Air Filter #2265
NAPA GOLD Oil Filter #1516

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Old 09-06-2011, 08:20 AM   #17
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Here is my fix for the common leak from the Kohler 7CM21 oil pipe...

The problem is that the Oil Fill/Drain pipe comes loose where it is screwed into the Engine Crank case.
You cannot tighten or unscrew the pipe as it fouls on everything.

I cut off the end already here, and the T flange, and you can see it STILL fouls the engine mounting.


Here is the repair:
1/ Drain the oil.

2/ Remove fuel pump, engine cover, and oil filter.

3/ Using a Sawzall with a long blade, cut through the pipe at the T piece oil drain union..


4/ Unscrew remains of pipe from Crank case:


5/ Leaving you this view:
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:44 AM   #18
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6/ Clean up mess, and remove all metal filings. Clean thread.

7/ Obtain the following 3/4" Iron pipe fittings: 1X 4" sraight. 1X 90deg male/female. 1X T piece. 2 X short thread joints. Plumbers PTFE tape. 1 Coupling like this:


8/ Wrap both ends of straight pipe with Pipe tape, thread smaller end of coupling onto one end, tighten firmly, then screw assembly tightly into engine.


9/ Wrap threads with tape, and screw 90deg onto other piece of coupling, then add the 2 short threads to the T piece, and the original dipstick assemblyto that. Make sure the T piece faces outward,. Add original 1/2 square drain plug to T piece.

10/ Screw whole assbly onto first part.
Pictures explain it better!




You will need to add a longer bolt and spacer to the Dipstick support bracket.
Oil changes are now done by taking of the lower side panel, and unscrewing the plug.
By tipping the Motorhome at an angle with the Levelers, you can speed the draining
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:55 AM   #19
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Still had to pull the unit out a little, so I can clean it and the compartment up..



Put it on 500lb slides for future work...


Next is a complete rework and update of the Soundproofing.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:41 AM   #20
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Almost done...
Bolting the Angle to the floor...


Here we are, still more to do, but its now sliding in and out on its rails!


I am now planning to remount the Fuel Pump to its correct place next to the Carb, and continue the degrease, and clean up ready for the soundproofing rework.

While I am here, anyone know where this rubber pipe on the side of the carb, under the linkage, center of pic should go or be connected to?
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:59 PM   #21
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Digging about on my computer and I found this short video that clearly shows the issue and why the pipe was leaking!!!

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Old 12-06-2012, 01:54 PM   #22
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Steve,

Did you look at the possibility of adding a Street Elbow in place of the plug so the drain point would be pointing down? Or is it too close to the outer shell to do so?

Also, how did you manage to tighten the section of pipe that connects directly to the block? Is there room to turn a wrench in there?

I do like the idea of using the leveling jacks to assist in draining the oil

Brad
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:17 PM   #23
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While I am here, anyone know where this rubber pipe on the side of the carb, under the linkage, center of pic should go or be connected to?

Steve,

Just noticed your question. It reminds me of an overflow hose but I'm not sure. When I get home this evening I'll look at mine and see if it has the same hose and if it does I'll see where it goes.

Brad
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:24 PM   #24
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Its possible that you would have space...
I planned to put a long funnel in a drain can, and tuck the edge under the drain...

Just remember that the whole thing is sprung to isolate the genset running vibration, and it might hit something... mostly when starting and stopping.
I have since spotted my genset hits the front fan shroud on the drawer slide sometimes, so will have to add a spacer somewhere...
You can almost see it here...
Will have to space the genset tray up, or the slide out away from it... again, it only hits when starting/stopping.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:27 PM   #25
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That pipe...
I pulled it off... to look... and guess what... it is attached to the throttle butterfly shaft... stupid I thought.... what is the point of that!
But wait....
What if the throttle shaft is worn and leaking air at that point....
Maybe a knowledgable tech knows that putting a bit of rubber pipe over, acts as a seal...
Oh boy...
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:40 PM   #26
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Its possible that you would have space...
I planned to put a long funnel in a drain can, and tuck the edge under the drain...

Just remember that the whole thing is sprung to isolate the genset running vibration, and it might hit something... mostly when starting and stopping.
I have since spotted my genset hits the front fan shroud on the drawer slide sometimes, so will have to add a spacer somewhere...
You can almost see it here...
Will have to space the genset tray up, or the slide out away from it... again, it only hits when starting/stopping.
I don't have the clearance issue. My generator is set slightly inside the drawer slides so there is no interference. However you have a good point about the generator rocking when it starts and stops. I believe I'll just do what you did and use a pipe plug. No sense complicating matters any more than they need to be

Brad
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:41 PM   #27
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That pipe...
I pulled it off... to look... and guess what... it is attached to the throttle butterfly shaft... stupid I thought.... what is the point of that!
But wait....
What if the throttle shaft is worn and leaking air at that point....
Maybe a knowledgable tech knows that putting a bit of rubber pipe over, acts as a seal...
Oh boy...
Interesting. I'll have to keep that in mind for my Triumph SU carburetors
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:48 PM   #28
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Oh, on tightening the first pipe section...
1/ Be carefull... the starter solenoid is right there, and if you are stupid enough to forget to disconnect or isolate the chassis battery, you can get a nice healthy spark....

2/ get a nice wind of PTFE pipe tape on both ends of the first pipe length and screw it in the crank case by hand.
Then assemble this part...


Like this...
and screw it on as an assembly... this will tighten both onto the pipe..


Then disassemble the outer part... there was just enough space to ge a adjustable wrench on the large hex...
Then assemble the rest of the pieces as an assembly and that split piece allowes you to put it all back as one..
Then just tighten the large hex and its good to go!

I have to add a spacer between the dipstick tube support bracket and genset body yet as its spaced to the right a little more than originally...
You can see the gap here...
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