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Old 11-08-2018, 02:31 PM   #21
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2007 27' International CCD FB
San Diego , California
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There's several of us that have put the generator on the tongue. As another example, I've recently done this mod as well, albeit for 1 Honda eu2200i. It has proven to work well. A single eu2200i is able to run my A/C with margin. I also have run my generator in place as I'm fully able to pull start it without taking it off. There is minimal noise and vibration transferred into the rest of the trailer as I sandwiched layers of attenuating material in the base. It's about as loud as a fantastic fan on low, but less intrusive as it sounds farther away.

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More information about mine in this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...ue-187346.html
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:10 PM   #22
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All are interesting points. Great minds think alike! I’ve already ordered “security nuts” that require a special socket for securing both the rack to the frame and the access panel to the battery compartment that also serves as the base to the Jerry-can mounting plate. They just haven’t arrived yet. It’s similar in design to mag wheel locks, but while the nuts themselves are relatively cheap, the sockets to match are really expensive. I’m hoping vibration won’t be an issue as the generators are actually still resting on the rubber feet that comes stock with them. We simply used longer bolts to go through the feet and aluminum security plate and into the the generator frame. I will have to see if they vibration might cause “rattling” between that security plate and the the points at which it contacts the shelf. I do have some rubber padding I’ve used to keep the puck locks from rattling in their mounts that I could employ at the contact points if that becomes a problem. Thank you for the thoughts about turning radius. I’ll have to try some really tight turns in the parking lot and see how close I come to the rack. I’ve seen a few similar designs using steel and expanded metal and haven’t heard of any turning problems, so hopefully that isn’t a hidden issue. If I built it again, there is enough room to move the generators inward slightly and the rack ends don’t need to be squared off, you can see from the earlier pictures they could be trimmed to be angled on the ends and perhaps provide a few more inches of clearance in turns if that’s necessary. I don’t have a schematic but the metal shop that built it is “House of Metal LLC” in Clearwater Florida (houseofmetalllc.com). The owner who did the work is Doug Calibey. We originally considered stainless steel covers to match the propane tanks cover but the space is pretty tight, it would have added weight, and I would need to route the exhaust through a metal cover somehow. On a related note, because the front of the airstream leans outward as it rises from the frame, we had some clearance issues with the generators (and of course any metal covers we hoped to design). We overcame that by drilling new mount holes in the propane bottle mounting plate an inch back from the stock position which allowed us to move them about an inch forward towards the motorized jack. It did not require any holes in the frame (I wasn’t willing to drill into the Airstream frame out of concerns about potentially weakening it).
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:18 PM   #23
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Oh and I don’t plan to store the generators on the unit when we’re not camping. I’ll keep them in the garage when we’re not traveling so they’re out of the weather and out of sight from anyone tempted to liberate them. I just unlock the puck lock and the security plate slides out of the rack and stays on the generator for transport.
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:20 PM   #24
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Nice work!
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:29 PM   #25
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Nice job!

I hope you will weigh the tongue ASAP, with the jerry can and propane tanks full, and your water tank and black/grey holding tanks empty [worst-case scenario, granted].

This setup could change the handling of your rig quite a bit IMO. Obviously the weight-distribution fore and aft will be affected. But also the sway characteristics while underway could change, especially if this new weight is far away from the TV rear axle.

I guess your tow vehicle's hitch rating can handle the increased load OK?

Thanks for the clear photos.

Peter
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Old 11-08-2018, 03:47 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mwgautreau View Post
All are interesting points. Great minds think alike! I’ve already ordered “security nuts” that require a special socket for securing both the rack to the frame and the access panel to the battery compartment that also serves as the base to the Jerry-can mounting plate. They just haven’t arrived yet. It’s similar in design to mag wheel locks, but while the nuts themselves are relatively cheap, the sockets to match are really expensive. I’m hoping vibration won’t be an issue as the generators are actually still resting on the rubber feet that comes stock with them. We simply used longer bolts to go through the feet and aluminum security plate and into the the generator frame. I will have to see if they vibration might cause “rattling” between that security plate and the the points at which it contacts the shelf. I do have some rubber padding I’ve used to keep the puck locks from rattling in their mounts that I could employ at the contact points if that becomes a problem. Thank you for the thoughts about turning radius. I’ll have to try some really tight turns in the parking lot and see how close I come to the rack. I’ve seen a few similar designs using steel and expanded metal and haven’t heard of any turning problems, so hopefully that isn’t a hidden issue. If I built it again, there is enough room to move the generators inward slightly and the rack ends don’t need to be squared off, you can see from the earlier pictures they could be trimmed to be angled on the ends and perhaps provide a few more inches of clearance in turns if that’s necessary. I don’t have a schematic but the metal shop that built it is “House of Metal LLC” in Clearwater Florida (houseofmetalllc.com). The owner who did the work is Doug Calibey. We originally considered stainless steel covers to match the propane tanks cover but the space is pretty tight, it would have added weight, and I would need to route the exhaust through a metal cover somehow. On a related note, because the front of the airstream leans outward as it rises from the frame, we had some clearance issues with the generators (and of course any metal covers we hoped to design). We overcame that by drilling new mount holes in the propane bottle mounting plate an inch back from the stock position which allowed us to move them about an inch forward towards the motorized jack. It did not require any holes in the frame (I wasn’t willing to drill into the Airstream frame out of concerns about potentially weakening it).



Great idea! Just curious what the price tag was?
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:05 AM   #27
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Bravo indeed. I only know one person who has a built-in generator in their trailer. It was a custom order at Northland, on an Arctic Fox and was around $6K! Onan. Regardless, when is someone in Ohio going to figure out that they can at least make a place for a portable generator to store, with OUTSIDE access. Reminds me of the big 3 refusing to use retractable windshield wipers until the turn of the century while foreign manufacturers installed them in the 1960’s.
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:18 AM   #28
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Supposedly, many "toy hauler" SOB trailers with a "fuel station" for gasoline-powered toys also come with a generator installed. Not enough of an inducement for us.
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:59 AM   #29
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Think about setting them up to run on propane? Not very far to go and I see you have a quick connect at the tongue.
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Old 12-30-2018, 09:57 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mwgautreau View Post
After seeing several different strategies for carrying small Honda generators on an airstream, I worked with a local metal fabricator to build an aluminum rack to bolt over the battery box. It uses the “puck lock and plate” configuration on either end to secure the generators (also made of aluminum) and we put a mount in the middle to secure a crush proof Jerry-can to carry fuel. The center plate on the rack is removable so you can access the batter department without removing the rack. However, removing the batteries would likely require unbolting the rack. I can still use the anti-sway hitch and can still access the spare tire rack underneath the trailer.

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Hi! I’m new to the site and new bambi owner also. I am very interested in obtaining the exact plans used to build this. I’m willing to pay your fabricator for the plans if possible.

Many thanks.
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Old 12-30-2018, 11:11 AM   #31
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Hi. I am looking for this same thing. I am willing to pay you or the fabricator for the plans so I can have one built here inPhoenix. Thanks!!!
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Old 12-30-2018, 12:11 PM   #32
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Mwgautreau,
I've just run across this thread and it looks to be well executed to me. I really like your generator installation!

A couple of years ago, I did something similar with my 1991 34' Limited. You can see the construction, etc. in this thread.
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Old 01-03-2019, 03:54 PM   #33
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Great thread, thanks. I'll offer up our solution as well. If interested, it's included in page 2 our our rebuild thread at https://www.airforums.com/forums/f36...er-155180.html


Good luck,


Roy and Marie
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:19 PM   #34
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Is this your setup in Post #19 of that thread? What was the net added weight, after taking the second propane tank off? Thanks


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Old 06-01-2019, 03:26 PM   #35
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I built a similar rack using cellular pvc. It holds the two generators on a removable platform with storage below for the battery and 2 gallon gas can. Pretty easy to make with no metal fabricator.
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Old 06-02-2019, 06:33 AM   #36
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OTRA,


Sorry for the delayed response, re, the net weight gain for the replacement of the 40# tank with the gen and box. The increase in weight was about 27 lbs. I tried to keep the generator size as low as I could and still run the Coleman Power Saver Air conditioner. The 2200 Ryobi handles the air conditioner with just a little extra capacity. It weighs about 50#.


I typically travel with just a small amount of water in the fresh water tank (mounted under the sofa against the front wall) to partially compensate for the added weight on the tongue.


Thanks for the question,
Roy and Marie
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:18 PM   #37
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In my setup (in post #22), the weight gain is likewise negligible.

The aluminum generator plate I added is all of maybe 3 lbs? Honda eu2200i is 47lbs, probably 2/3 of which winds up as tongue weight. So call it 35lbs.

Getting ready for some summer camping and glad I have a genny to run my new high powered Blizzard NXT A/C.
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:22 PM   #38
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Thanks Roy and Marie.

Peter
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Old 07-25-2020, 06:10 PM   #39
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redding , California
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I would love to have specs and any info on this setup. Best solution I have seen yet. Airstrream should have this as an option! I know they monitor these forums???
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Old 08-15-2020, 06:41 AM   #40
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Albeit a somewhat dated, the above is a Great Post started by Mwgautreau & the accompanying threads as a topic I was seeking to learn about in the form of sharing by others here in the forum. Thanks Gents!

Here today, I am seeking further advice, recommendations and of course opinions on a similar plan I am assembling for the fixed installation of dual Honda EU2200i(s) on my Airstream Classic M30 RQB.

DUAL HONDA EU2200I Generator Installation Planning
To begin with, I have a 2018 Classic M30 of which has a full Solar installation that included elimination of the batteries up front inside the A-frame battery box (as I now have dual Litiums installed under the interior dining booth). That stated, I just ordered a pair of Honda EU2201i's (yesterday) and as well, purchased Tri-Fuel conversion kits (from Hutch Mountain). Hence, I plan run the gens off of propane.

MOUNTING PLAN
After reading through the above OP and threads, I am now considering to use the
original battery box to house the required propane demand regulators for each generator and then mount both generators on individual platforms to be fabricated and mounted on the top sides of the A-frame similar to the design used by Mwgautreau, only I need to study the idea in more detail due to my having a Propride 3P AS/WD hitch setup which uses vertical WD jacks mounted to the A-frame members just behind the propane tank cover. Pending further and detailed measurements, I am presently certain I'll have enough room to mount each generator given their width of 11.4" and considering each be centered over the respective sides of the A-Frame.

WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
In terms of overall weight; a quick calculation tells me the combined weight of the dual EU2201i gensets will be somewhere in the area of 93 lbs + the weight of the 2 demand regulators, hoses and bracetry together with aluminum base mounting platforms I'll end up very close to the combined weight of the original dual Interstate type SRM27 batteries (i.e. 50 lbs each) + their cabling -- so weight should not be an issue.

NOISE & VIBRATION
I am concerned about noise (more so than vibration) penetrating the front cabin area of the Airstream which host the LR/sofa seating area as our M30's RQB is located in the rear and will likely need to perform some "trial and error" testing by mounting both generators temporarily using a 2 x 12 piece of wood clamped to the top of the A-frame and running them to determine such (noise penetration). Hopefully, the noise (beyond initial start-up and loading) will be tolerable from inside the trailer and such that I can proceed with the installation in such form.

Attached is a somewhat detailed 'sketch' or "mock up" of the layout I am contemplating. "Click on image to expand it".

Again, asking for (and will most certainly appreciate) any feedback or comments including opinions.

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