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Old 11-29-2014, 08:00 AM   #15
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The generator has perhaps 1000 hours. The synthetic oil situation is a good one, I will try it first.
As far as I can tell the new generators are identical to the old ones so it is strictly a question of dollars and sense.
Perhaps it is an oil pressure switch as once it gets going, it has enough power. Thank you for the good advice.
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Old 11-29-2014, 09:09 AM   #16
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Handn,

I got out my Shop Manual and would offer this...after some questions.
Oil consumption can be an issue of age as well as hours. How old is the unit?
Does it consume oil during operation, or just puff at startup? How much does it consume?

I agree with the above...the oil level sensor sticking and giving a false level shutdown is relatively common with age.

The output indicator will give you a rough idea of hours. Upon startup, it will blink.
Steady light = <100 hours
1 Blink = 100 <200 hours
2 blinks = 200<300 hours
3 blinks = 300 <400 hours
4 blinks = 400 < 500 yours
50 blinks = >500 hours....after that, you're on your own (I installed hour meters on both of mine when new)

"In case of insufficient engine oil level, the red LED oil alert indicator comes ON and ignition will be cut to stop the engine. Also, when engine oil is insufficient, it will prevent the engine from starting."

If it just puffs at startup and doesn't consume a significant amount of oil during operation, I would suspect valve seals. They can deteriorate with time, regardless of hours of operation. Worn guides can cause this as well, but usually will cause relatively higher consumption during operation, over just worn/hardened seals.

If the rings are sticking or worn, you would not necessarily see a puff at startup (unless seals and guides are also worn) but would see pretty high operational consumption.

At 1000 hours, I would not expect to see significant wear to cylinders, rings or guides, provided quality oil has been used and changed regularly. But if it is old, I would expect and suspect valve seals.

If I were in your situation and was considering replacement or complete teardown, I would try these steps.

1) analyse the oil consumption and smoking behavior in a more detailed and documented fashion. If it doesn't use much oil, I'd replace the valve seals. (This can be done without complete disassembly.

2) I would remove the oil and fill the crankcase with Seafoam (do not run motor!) This may free up the sticking oil level sensor.

3) Remove the spark plug and put about 3 tablespoons of Seafoam in the cylinder to potentially free up the rings. Let soak for several days (if oil consumption analysis indicates a high consumption rate).

4) Drain the crankcase and cylinder and fill with fresh oil. Operate the engine and bring to full operating temperature. (it will be hard to start and smoke like a banshee for awhile. When it warms up and quits smoking. Drain and refill with fresh oil again and replace the spark plug.

5) Monitor and document you starting and oil consumption performance again.

If after this you have startup puff, but no significant consumption, replace the valve seals.

If you still have a high consumption rate, a full teardown is in order.

Also, I am assuming that the air filter is clean and not over-oiled. Over-oiling can certainly cause hard starting and smoking.

If the filter is restricted, you could also be pulling oil from the crankcase through the breather hose. Examine the inside of the hose for excessive oil. This could also be an indicator of excessive ring blow by. Clean both the filter and the hose before the above consumption tests for another diagnostic aid.

Of course the basic compression test should be run before and after the above procedures.

I don't know if the old guidelines for auto engines would apply, but in my world 1 hour of operational time = 33 hours. So, I would not expect a 1000 hour engine (translated to 33,000 miles) to have a lot of hard part wear, if maintained properly. However, low hour/high sitting time will easily cause sticking rings and/or hard, brittle valve seals.

I'm sure I have forgotten something, and maybe Honda Robert will chime in, but that's where I'd start. If you're going to tear down and rebuild or replace, what do you have to lose?
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Old 11-29-2014, 09:39 AM   #17
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Good advice from Rich. I just want to point out that synthetic oil doesn't stop oil consumption, it just doesn't cause smoke in the exhaust. It is a modern used car salesman's trick.
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Old 11-29-2014, 05:44 PM   #18
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That good advice should get me started. I will monitor further and quantify oil comsumption.
I had unit serviced by a Honda service center last year. They said compression was 25 lbs, low for the unit.
I have changed the oil every year with the recommended 10W30 and had unit serviced every other year by a professional.
Mobile One is 5W30. The lower viscosity should help the unit stay running in sub freezing temps.
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Old 11-29-2014, 08:10 PM   #19
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I don't know which oil sensor is on your generator, however the one on my construction generator can be bypassed by simply disconnecting the wire. In cold weather we would quite often have problems with it cutting the engine off. After checking to make sure there was sufficient oil in it we would pull the wire until the the engine had gotten warmed up, then we would hook it back up.

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Old 11-29-2014, 08:39 PM   #20
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If you are doing the work yourself, you may be able to do it reasonably; however, the rate for repair on the generators, according to the information I looked at just to clean a carb, or service them is quite pricey.

If you go new, I strongly recommend in that size range, a Yamaha 2400isHC.
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Old 11-29-2014, 09:12 PM   #21
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I think that generator has a GX100 engine. You should be able to get a long block reasonable.
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Old 12-05-2014, 02:12 PM   #22
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Replacement parts for the EU2000i are readily available from Honda. Any Honda dealer can get you parts; here's a link to find a dealer in your area:

Find A Honda Dealer

A shop manual is really helpful if you wish to DIY; Honda sells paper copies (127 pages!) on Amazon and eBay.

Honda does not sell a "long block" for the EU2000i. At some point, Honda may offer a complete replacement engine, but none are available right now.

FYI, the engine in a EU2000i is a little different; it has a diagonal split-block design and an internal timing belt. There is no separate cylinder head as you may know from other small gas engines:

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Old 12-05-2014, 02:35 PM   #23
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Send it to me. I will dispose of it for you.

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Old 12-05-2014, 03:28 PM   #24
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Robert@Honda, a few questions:

• Do you have a ballpark figure for troubleshooting and/or rebuilding the engine?

• Is this easily done at a local Honda-authorized small engine repair or equipment rental shop?

• Does Honda have a warranty repair/factory rebuild facility in the USA where generators can be returned for major overhauls?
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Old 12-08-2014, 01:55 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix View Post
Robert@Honda, a few questions:
Do you have a ballpark figure for troubleshooting and/or rebuilding the engine?
Depends on what exactly is needed. The most important step is to make an accurate diagnosis and precise measurements. What is worn is what gets replaced. A good shop / tech will is essential. Figure about 3 hours of shop labor time

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix View Post
Is this easily done at a local Honda-authorized small engine repair or equipment rental shop?
Easy if you've done a few before. A real struggle if lacking the tools or shop manual. I would shop around and find a dealer with a shop tech who has done the job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix View Post
Does Honda have a warranty repair/factory rebuild facility in the USA where generators can be returned for major overhauls?
No, afraid not.

Finally, a new EU2 is about $1000 and will come with a 3-year warranty.
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Old 12-08-2014, 02:39 PM   #26
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If serviced properly these gens run 10,000 hours or more.Sound to me like you have some carbon buildup on the valves.I would run some Seafoam and fresh fuel thru this gen.
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:41 PM   #27
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If everything else works well, drain out the dino oil, and replace it with Mobil 1. It will no longer smoke, and may well run better.
This is what I did. I filled with Mobil 1 O w 40 viscosity made for high end German cars. No improvement. I thought I had the same problem as my generator would shut off repeatedly in the cold but I read the owners manual.
It showed the full oil pressure was when the oil was completely topped off and filled to the top of the filler hole with the generator level. I had been filling it only to the point that it read full on the dipstick.
Problem solved. I has been getting into the 20's at night and the generator starts like a champ and keeps running.
Hope this helps someone who has a similar problem.
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Old 11-11-2017, 12:31 PM   #28
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I'm in the middle of such a semi overhaul and have discovered a few things. My gen was blowing tons of smoke. Discovered extreme piston slap, rings worn out. I ordered parts and apparently there are 20 versions of this little eu2000i. Parts were priced ok but hard to get the right part. Use the #s on the engine not the outside panel. After getting the parts it was determined the crankshaft was scored and needed a undersize rod and mill of the crankshaft to match, or trying to get a new right crankshaft again. I went down to my small engine repair and they say from HONDA they order all the similar parts get the right one that fits and sent the remainder back. It's been a challenge. For me not worth the wait for parts, resend and return, leaving the generator apart in a box for so long. Its been a long project. Wish me luck. GOOD LUCK..
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