I just finished mounting 2 Honda EU2000 on my 2001 Bambi 19'. I thought others might like to see how I did it. The total cost was probably in the $100 range and it probably took 6 hours. I did no welding, but a lot of drilling (not on the Bambi) and bolting. Of course, to maintain the "Silver" look I will leave the Honda covers on. By the way, the Honda cover made for the EU3000 fits the EU2000 with the Gen-Tran installed.
I just finished mounting 2 Honda EU2000 on my 2001 Bambi 19'. I thought others might like to see how I did it. The total cost was probably in the $100 range and it probably took 6 hours. I did no welding, but a lot of drilling (not on the Bambi) and bolting. Of course, to maintain the "Silver" look I will leave the Honda covers on. By the way, the Honda cover made for the EU3000 fits the EU2000 with the Gen-Tran installed.
Thanks, for the Post, Grizzly.
That's a slick application you have worked out. Are they wired in series or is one for the AZ sun and A/C and the other for all other appliances? Also, how easy would it be to remove the mounting bracket if you needed to?
Super boondocker, and IMHO you didn't trash the look of the A/S. Thanks, for the post.
I have a question. I've been looking into the 2000 myself, and I was wondering how noisey those things especially where you have them located on your coach.
Is the noise level noticable inside the AS, with doors and windows closed? Is the level of sound as loud or louder than, say, if the water pump was running continuously. (Those water pumps can be a racket!)
Thanks.
Jonathan
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I'm out of my mind right now, but will be returning shortly......
It wasn't a kit. I just started with 3, 6 foot long pieces of 2 inch angle iron from Home Depot. Two of the 6 foot lengths were mounted on top of the Bambi frame and the other 6 foot piece I used to build the cross-pieces (two in each side. I made a floor for each of the boxes (each side) with expanded metal mesh. I figured this would be sturdy but still allow water and debris to fall through. To clamp the angle iron to the Bambi frame I used mounting bars from the electrical dept of Home Depot. The are heavy and have two holes drilled already. I did have to drill one hole in the top of the Bambi Frame as I could not use the clamp method where the anti-sway bar attaches to the frame. Finally, I used a piece of flat aluminum bolted across the bottom of the generator (between the rubber feet and the generator frame) and bent in roughly an L shape on the end to make a way to lock the generator to the frame. I will also use rubber straps to secure the generator to the frame when traveling.
The Gen-Tran allows the two generators to be wired in parallel which means you can run anything, including the A/C if you want to. All I have to do is pull the cord around and plug in. I know the Gen-Tran is more expensive than it should be but it mounts right to the Honda generator and makes it pretty nmice for my application.
I hope this helps explain what I did. I would be happy to send more photos if they are needed. The only tools I needed were a hacksaw, a drill, and wrenches to tighten the bolts. I have to admit that I used a reciprocal saw and a roto-sip with a cut-off saw attached to make the job easier.
I forgot to mention that I haven't actually heard the Honda Generators run. In fact I haven't even added oil yet. I purchased them based on all the information from others in this forum who have used them. I got them from Wise Equipment http://www.wisesales.com/HondaGeneratorsMain.html . They had the best price I could find and they have been great to work with.
Each generator weighs 43lbs. The steel may be another 30-40lbs. About another 15-20lbs for fluids so somewhere around 100lbs added to the tongue weight.
I don't understand how you will operate your WD hook-up brackets... From your photos it appears that you won't be able to "load" your spring bars very easily.
I'm sure you've thought it out, just curious. Thanks for the pics, BTW, very helpful.
I have a question. I've been looking into the 2000 myself, and I was wondering how noisey those things especially where you have them located on your coach.
Is the noise level noticable inside the AS, with doors and windows closed? Is the level of sound as loud or louder than, say, if the water pump was running continuously. (Those water pumps can be a racket!)
Thanks.
Jonathan
Jonathan,
My EU2000i runs very quiet. Not stealthy type quiet, but liveable.
I put it under the rear bumper, and face the exhaust away from the trailer.
It is quiet enough that it is no bother when you're inside the trailer. It is not quiet enough to run when you're sitting outside, about 10ft from it. ou can move it around easily, like by the streetside wheels, and then the noise level is low enough to live with, even on quiet camp sites.
Did this installation (which looks good) affect your turning radius?
The #1 thing I miss from our MH is the generator; I am afraid that I will change for the worse my sway.....was thinking of the back bumper area and having a generator attached on a platform....
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Kistler
Brenda
Misty (Maltese)
Maxwell (grey tabby)
2002 Classic 25'
2003 Expedition EB 5.4L, AWD, AdvanceTrac Class IV hitch pkg. Reese dual cam/Prodigy
When we were dry camping a few weeks ago at Many Glacier in GNP, a fellow Airstreamer from Pennsylvania rescued us from our dead batteries with the help of his Honda 2000 generator. Worked slick as could be and we were amazed at the sound, so much less noise than we had anticipated from reading posts about these. We are shopping for one now-I would really wish for two like shown here so that we could always run AC as needed! Spoiled? Indeed
__________________ maxandgeorgia 1995 Airstream Classic Limited 30' ~ Gypsy Chev Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison, 4X4, Crew Cab WBCCI #5013 AIR #2908 WDCU Go, Mizzou...Tigers on the prowl!
The carrier I added for the generators does complicate hitching and unhitching slightly, but only slightly. There are a few extra things I have to do that I didn't before I added the carrier:
1. unlock the generator padlock and move the generator about a few inches over on the edge of the carrier.
2. use a pry bar (prying against the top of the angle iron next to the WD Bracket) to raise the Weight Distribution bracket (with the chain attached) up a couple of inches. Use the normal piece of pipe to raise the WD bracket the rest of the way into position.
3. move the generator back and lock it up.
It adds two or three minutes to the hitch/unhitch process but it was a compromise I was willing to live with. We travel with our pets and live in the Southwest (Arizona). If we want to stop anywhere while driving or go anywhere when are camping without hookups we need to be able to run the AC. This lets us do just that without worrying about having our generators stolen. Plus we don't have to carry the generators inside the vehicle taking up space and unload them when we want to use them.
I hope this answers the questions. If anyone needs it I can post pictures of the process.