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Old 05-02-2011, 01:50 PM   #1
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Honda EU2000i

Hi there-

Been reading and researching these honda generators for a couple years and finally pulled the trigger on the EU2000i. We recently got clobbered with tornados here in AL and our power was out for 4 days so I decided to go ahead and pick it up. Man, this thing worked AWESOME! Cranked the first time and kept our fridge going, fan, couple lights, charged cell phones, etc. Can't say enough about it other than it was everything we thought it would be and more. My neighbor dropped by and was checking it out and thinking about getting one himself for these kinds of situations. So, I was wondering how I should store this thing now and what what steps I should follow to keep it in good working order for the next time. I hear some folks drain the fuel while others put fuel conditioner in there and run it every couple months or so. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 05-02-2011, 02:44 PM   #2
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When the power goes out, it is nice just to pull the rope and get power. In that context, I'd recommend using sta-bil all the time just so the gas is already in it and it will keep the gas from fouling your carb.

Be sure you evaluate your storage area, though. For example, if you have a gas water heater or your furnace in the garage, then I would not want to store the genny anywhere nearby.

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Old 05-02-2011, 03:36 PM   #3
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I find that fuel stabilizers are pretty good. I've gotten spoiled enough to the stabilizer that I never got around to draining the fuel from my mower at the end of the growing season last year... about 3.5 months later, it started on the second pull (usually it starts on the first.) If you follow the "start monthly" exercise recommendation and let it run for a while, I think it'll do well with fuel stabilizer.
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:54 PM   #4
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I have used StaBil In my fuel supply,that being 2 /5 gallon plastic containers. I treat 5 gallons of gas with 2 oz of StaBil. I have chainsaws that have not been used for several yrs but I am satified if I go an crank on them they will start. I own a small engine shop and clean and rebuild carbs all the time. Most are gummed up from leaving untreated fuel in them when storing. I,myself have not cleaned or overhauled a carb for myself in 25 yrs of using StaBIL. I know I sound like a STABIL Commerical but the stuff works. MIX it only in the supply,DO NOT TRY to ADD it to the fuel tank. GOOD LUCK
Roger
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Old 05-02-2011, 03:54 PM   #5
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When I know I won't be using mine for a while, I just drain the tank then run the gas out. However, I'm not sure this is good enough. On my big 3500 watt (loud) generator I have at the house for hurricanes, I have to drain the pot under the carburetor to really get the gas out. Learned that the hard way from congealed fuel.

On the Honda 2000, READ YOUR MAINTENANCE MANUAL. They call for an oil change every 30 hours. You'll be surprised how fast you can rack up 30 hours while boondocking for a couple of weeks (if that includes TV in the evenings, and lots of computer time.)

Failure to change the oil results in the red oil light coming on, and when you drain it, you find sludge!

But, you're right... great generator!
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Old 05-02-2011, 04:35 PM   #6
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Thanks for the recommendations, yall. I just talked with a Honda dealer in town and he recommended to NOT drain the existing gas out of the unit. He did say stabil is a great product to use but in the end he said to use the generator frequently to keep the fuel lines clear.
The only thing that kinda bugs me about the unit is the inconvenient oil changing drain. I think I'm going to have to come up with some kind of pvc jack leg setup to drain the oil out. I think they could of come up with something a little more innovative than a angled slide. Really? A slide. That is my only complaint and I'll get over it.
I also want to get some information on running it on propane. That is my ultimate goal and then we're gonna be in boodocking heaven!!! Can you sense my enthusiasm?
Thanks again forum friends!
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Old 05-02-2011, 04:52 PM   #7
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I intend to convert mine to propane. A Tri-fuel conversion is also an possible (gasoline, natural gas, and LP).
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Old 05-02-2011, 05:13 PM   #8
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STABIL, and start it up a run for ten minutes every month or so.
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Old 05-02-2011, 05:43 PM   #9
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On the Honda 2000, READ YOUR MAINTENANCE MANUAL. They call for an oil change every 30 hours.
Reading the EU2000i Owner's manual, maintenance schedule on page 42, it says to change after the first 20 hours, then every 6 months or 100 hours thereafter.
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:10 PM   #10
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We've used our e2000 for years when camping...

1. after initial break in period, I have used synthetic oil with great success - non of those 'sludge' issues...

2. when returning home and storing the unit, I 'now' always drain the fuel from the carb bowl, using the small screw operated valve and drain line that's provided...I didn't always do this, resulting in the evaporated fuel in the bowl - mixed with who-knows-what clogging the jet - a quick removal and cleaning cured the problem - but it could have been avoided by draining the carb before storage...

3. it was suggested by others here that it's better to run 89 octane fuel instead of the minimum 87 grade in these small gas engines - I switched a couple of years ago and believe it helps with the 'start on the first pull' routine...

4. a fuel stabilizer seems like a good choice if you store your unit for extended time periods - I've never used it, and it may have prevented my clogged jet problem, but I also think that draining the carb is an acceptable alternative...

I've nicked named our Honda the 'Red Lion' - it 'roars' when it's called upon to run the microwave, and 'purrs' like a kitten the rest of the time, charging our batteries!

Some products are just plain better than others - this is one of em', IMHO...
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:29 PM   #11
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I may give this a try too. Sounds like a good thing to know how to do. PErhaps there is a youtube instructional out there. I'm a visual person.
Thanks!

"2. when returning home and storing the unit, I 'now' always drain the fuel from the carb bowl, using the small screw operated valve and drain line that's provided...I didn't always do this, resulting in the evaporated fuel in the bowl - mixed with who-knows-what clogging the jet - a quick removal and cleaning cured the problem - but it could have been avoided by draining the carb before storage..."
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Old 05-02-2011, 07:41 PM   #12
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I may give this a try too. Sounds like a good thing to know how to do. PErhaps there is a youtube instructional out there. I'm a visual person.
Thanks!

"2. when returning home and storing the unit, I 'now' always drain the fuel from the carb bowl, using the small screw operated valve and drain line that's provided...I didn't always do this, resulting in the evaporated fuel in the bowl - mixed with who-knows-what clogging the jet - a quick removal and cleaning cured the problem - but it could have been avoided by draining the carb before storage..."
The Mobil1 suggestion is a good one, too. I use it in ours.
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:51 PM   #13
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Benjo,
My mechanic put us onto a product called Seafoam. We use it on the farm in our seed tender Honda power units, JD lawn mowers,and the ATVs. I have an '88 Yamaha 350 4-wheeler that was difficult to start, especially after sitting 4-5 months in winter. I began using Seafoam in the gas and if the battery is up, it fires immediately now. It is as good as Stabil for us.
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:00 PM   #14
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Okay, got some good suggestions there. Now I'm onto understanding the eco setting and what that is actually for? Can someone explain this simply?
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:26 PM   #15
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I stabilize my gas and then run the EU2000i dry before storing. Makes for easy starting time and time again.
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:30 PM   #16
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I stabilize my gas and then run the EU2000i dry before storing. Makes for easy starting time and time again.
Yep, that's what I do too!

Not sure if it makes sense, it seems a bit like belt and suspenders, but my thinking is that if any gas should remain in the tiny drillings of the carb after the engine stops when run dry, then at least it will have stabil in it and should be less likely to gum up.

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Old 05-02-2011, 09:44 PM   #17
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Belt and suspenders make a lot of sense to me. Sometimes I even rock the genny back and forth once it starts to sputter, hoping that whatever gas is left will definitely make into the combustion chamber.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:26 PM   #18
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Benjo...

You can get to the carb drain by opening the large access hatch on the side of the genny - you'll see the carb drain hose coming from the bottom of the carb bowl - you'll need a small blade type screwdriver to open the valve...I always leave the valve 'open', and the large access hatch screw, 'loose' to remind me to close the valve before using the genny again...

You would normally leave the Honda in the 'eco' mode (I call it the purr mode)...it's output in the eco mode is sufficient for most needs...when you need it's higher output, it automatically increases it's speed to handle the higher demand, going into 'purr' mode again when the higher demand has been turned off...IE, if you running in 'eco' mode and turn on your microwave, the Honda revs up to handle the load...

If you need the Honda to provide it's maximum output for a continuing high load, you can switch out of the 'eco' mode so it doesn't have rev up and down all the time - IE: when running a compressor to power some air tools where the compressor cycles frequently...
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:48 PM   #19
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Do you recommend getting an hour meter to track run time to know when to change oil etc.? If not, how to you keep track of when to do the maintenance specified in the manual?

Not sure this the right thread but if its OK .... Have any of you used an external fuel tank for more run time? Any experience or advice on that? We need to run A/C through the night and that seems like the only way (2000 i and companion).

Thanks.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:33 PM   #20
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For me, the hour meter is cheap insurance. I put the meter on the EU2000i unit that I usually run alone (not the companion), but change the oil in both when it reaches 30 hr. We don't often need the output of two units running in parallel.
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