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Old 05-02-2011, 09:26 PM   #15
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I stabilize my gas and then run the EU2000i dry before storing. Makes for easy starting time and time again.
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:30 PM   #16
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I stabilize my gas and then run the EU2000i dry before storing. Makes for easy starting time and time again.
Yep, that's what I do too!

Not sure if it makes sense, it seems a bit like belt and suspenders, but my thinking is that if any gas should remain in the tiny drillings of the carb after the engine stops when run dry, then at least it will have stabil in it and should be less likely to gum up.

Brian
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:44 PM   #17
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Belt and suspenders make a lot of sense to me. Sometimes I even rock the genny back and forth once it starts to sputter, hoping that whatever gas is left will definitely make into the combustion chamber.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:26 PM   #18
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Benjo...

You can get to the carb drain by opening the large access hatch on the side of the genny - you'll see the carb drain hose coming from the bottom of the carb bowl - you'll need a small blade type screwdriver to open the valve...I always leave the valve 'open', and the large access hatch screw, 'loose' to remind me to close the valve before using the genny again...

You would normally leave the Honda in the 'eco' mode (I call it the purr mode)...it's output in the eco mode is sufficient for most needs...when you need it's higher output, it automatically increases it's speed to handle the higher demand, going into 'purr' mode again when the higher demand has been turned off...IE, if you running in 'eco' mode and turn on your microwave, the Honda revs up to handle the load...

If you need the Honda to provide it's maximum output for a continuing high load, you can switch out of the 'eco' mode so it doesn't have rev up and down all the time - IE: when running a compressor to power some air tools where the compressor cycles frequently...
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:48 PM   #19
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Do you recommend getting an hour meter to track run time to know when to change oil etc.? If not, how to you keep track of when to do the maintenance specified in the manual?

Not sure this the right thread but if its OK .... Have any of you used an external fuel tank for more run time? Any experience or advice on that? We need to run A/C through the night and that seems like the only way (2000 i and companion).

Thanks.
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Old 11-02-2011, 06:33 PM   #20
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For me, the hour meter is cheap insurance. I put the meter on the EU2000i unit that I usually run alone (not the companion), but change the oil in both when it reaches 30 hr. We don't often need the output of two units running in parallel.
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:57 AM   #21
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Thought I'd bump this thread because my Honda generator dealer suggested Sea Foam Motor Treatment for gas as a stabilizer. I found it at Napa for $10. The Sea Foam website recommends one ounce per gallon as a stabilizer for four-stroke engines.
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Old 02-08-2012, 06:47 AM   #22
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Quote:
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For me, the hour meter is cheap insurance. I put the meter on the EU2000i unit that I usually run alone (not the companion), but change the oil in both when it reaches 30 hr. We don't often need the output of two units running in parallel.
A worthwhile 'gizmo....

Bob
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:28 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by JBinKC View Post
Thought I'd bump this thread because my Honda generator dealer suggested Sea Foam Motor Treatment for gas as a stabilizer. I found it at Napa for $10. The Sea Foam website recommends one ounce per gallon as a stabilizer for four-stroke engines.
I have used Sea Foam for years. It's a little less expensive at Wal-Mart. I think it's around $8.50.

Brian
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:29 AM   #24
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I run hour meters on both and made up a 6 gallon dual feed extended run tank from an outboard boat tank, fittings and line. I installed a filter and purchased the aluminum caps for the Hondas with a boat motor fuel fitting on each.
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:41 AM   #25
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This is how I mounted my meters....it's a shameless home made version of a way too expensive of a mount I found online. Works well.

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