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Old 03-07-2005, 05:21 PM   #15
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You can leave the Techron in there for a while, but I would not store it for months. Run the generator for a couple hours, pour the remaining gas into your car, then refill the generator with fresh gas. The real Techron works wonders doesn't it?
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Old 03-07-2005, 06:48 PM   #16
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Paula could you explain-"they really like Amsoil & Mobile 1" ????----Pieman
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Old 03-07-2005, 07:56 PM   #17
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Synthetic Oil

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Originally Posted by Mike Lewis
Paula could you explain-"they really like Amsoil & Mobile 1" ????----Pieman
Instead of regular 10W-40. The synthetic oils will allow a small engine to start better in extreme cold because they remain viscous when straight petroleum products start to turn to a gel. Because they have better film strength the engine turns easier during startup and there is less piston wear while the engine is starting to heat up. Once the engine is fully hot the film strength again prevents metal to metal friction, and can actually help keep remove "shellac" deposits piston rings left by conventional oils - a common cause of low compression. If you've used regular oil and are switching to synthetic, common wisdom is to leave most of your regular oil in the engine, top it off with the synthetic - then run the engine heavily for a day or two. Then you do an oil change, including a new filter and go all synthetic.

Generally smaller engines turn higher RPM's so wear is accelerated. A really small generator may take only one quart of oil, so why not spring for the good stuff?

Synthetics also don't have to be changed nearly as often. (And I'm a almost religious about changing every 3000 miles with conventional oil.) They don't break down at high heat the way regular oil does, so they don't get dirty and they keep their lubricating properties. Simplest test to see the difference between a synthetic and a conventional oil; try to hold your dipstick by the oily end between your thumb and forefinger with regular oil on it, then repeat with a synthetic.

Tin Lizzie
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Old 03-07-2005, 10:09 PM   #18
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There is a good discussion going on Airstreamlist.com concerning properties of synthetic oil. Oliver Fillipi (sp) made some really good explanations of the good properties of synthetic. I know we have gone over the merits of synthetic vs. dino oil on the forum before but he made some worthwhile comments. The thread is "Oil change suggestions".

Paula,
I run nothing but synthetics in my 2500hd. I use Amsoil in the rear diff., engine, Allison transmission and will change the transfer case after this next hunting season. Matter of fact, the Amsoil Torque-Drive syn. fluid dropped the transmission temperature at least 50 degrees over what came in the Allison from the factory.
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:10 AM   #19
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Paula---I hate it when I have to explain a JOKE. I was being FACETIOUS as if your generator was saying "oh here comes Paula with dinner . I hope we're having Amsoil tonight".-------Pieman
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Old 03-08-2005, 09:54 AM   #20
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Techron cocktails anyone????

Jonathan
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Old 03-08-2005, 01:47 PM   #21
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Living in the desert heat can be a real problem with any small engines -- gas evaporates/gums up in the bowl very qwickly. I used to run the tank and bowl dry on everything unless I used it weekly. No I simply take the aircleaner off before running, spray some carb cleaner in, and start -- this has made a big difference in engines I run only occasionally like my EU2000s
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Old 03-26-2005, 08:30 PM   #22
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Today I started my Honda EU2000i for the first time since last fall... and like others have reported it would only run properly with 3/4 choke. I followed my own advice from an earlier post and dumped the old gas into my car and refilled the generator with fresh gas and Techron. I ran it for an hour and it still ran rough with less than 3/4 choke.

Then I cleaned the carb using the following simple procedure...

- Remove the red side cover using a coin
- Remove the black air filter cover using a coin
- Remove the lower portion of the air filter to reveal a screw, remove the screw
- Remove the two nuts holding the air cleaner assembly to the carb
- Remove the air cleaner assembly
- Spray carb cleaner into the two visible openings on the intake side of the carb
- Remove the black fuel line that connects to the right side of the carb
- Pull the carb straight out
- Spray carb cleaner into the small idle opening in the carb throat on the engine side of the carb (the brass idle needle protrudes slightly)
- Remove the bolt holding the float bowl to the carb, remove the float bowl
- Spray carb cleaner into the main jet
- Reassemble

It now runs perfectly!
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Old 03-26-2005, 08:39 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmac
Today I started my Honda EU2000i for the first time since last fall... and like others have reported it would only run properly with 3/4 choke. I followed my own advice from an earlier post and dumped the old gas into my car and refilled the generator with fresh gas and Techron. I ran it for an hour and it still ran rough with less than 3/4 choke.
It now runs perfectly!
I find that if I use a fuel stabilizer like "Stable" or "PRI-D" I don't get problems like that. They both stop fuel from gumming up the works in storage.
I also run my EU2000 at least once a month for an hour each time. Keeps the rust away from the cylenders.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:38 AM   #24
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Blow Out...

Hi Guys....
I KN it aint the same, but 4 wot it's worth...My Engine lawn mower sounded like the same symptons, I let it run a while, then I poured a lttl RED X & INJECTION Cleaner in2 the tank, it realy kicked out the gummed up goo in the bore & freed the piston too, now She runs sweet as a nut, & a lot more responsive 2...well U gotta try the simplest first, + I cleaned the Air filter & New plug & changed the OIL...Come on Grass, GROW, Hee Hee...with ALL this rain We havin now, it'll B 2 feet tall...LOL...Chris.....
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Old 02-20-2006, 02:13 PM   #25
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I thought I'd follow up to this thread: Last fall, I drained the gas from the tank, and emptied the carb of gas using the drain screw thing. I also changed the oil. I then pulled on the starter cord until I could feel resistance and then stored.

Last week, after a four month hybernation, I filled the 2000 with premium gas, tugged on the starter a half dozen times or so, and it started up without any of the problems that were brought up on the first post of this thread.

So I guess the way to store these for a long period is to make sure that the generator is dry...no gas.

We will be using the 2000 in a few weeks for a trip to Mammoth Cave, KY. Been there in the Eurovan on the Green river campground. This time we will stay at the Headquarters CG. A very cool place.

I'm just hoping that by the time we get back in the Chicago-area toward the end of March, I won't have to re-winterize. You never know though.

Jonathan
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Old 02-26-2006, 04:43 PM   #26
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a little vibration but not what I'd describe as rough idle after storing

I'm of course guilty of letting mine sit in the garage (for several months...) with a gas/Stabil mix in the tank. After reading this thread I got motivated (worried) and bought fresh 89 octane gas, Techron and carb cleaner. I mixed the new fuel with Techron and added it to what was in the tank and sprayed a couple good doses of carb cleaner down the throat and let it sit for a few minutes. Put it on full choke and gave a few pulls. Nothing. Hmmm it is close to 80 today. Turned off the choke and bingo it started first pull. I did notice it vibrated more in eco-throttle mode but nothing I would describe as rough. Less vibration with eco-throttle off. I guess I never noticed it before and I don't think this is what Jonathan/crazylev is describing. I changed the oil and ran it again for 15 to 20 minutes with the same results. Is the vibration normal (from my youth I recall single cylinder engines like BSA thumpers being pretty bouncy)? I have setup a calendar reminder to give it a least a monthly maintenance run.
Ken
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:09 PM   #27
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I'm begining to feel happy I've opted for my Generac 40G QuitePac. For the $1400 delivered price it's been about bullet proof. Just this afternoon I installed a new remote switch with hour meter that I ordered last week after my AS dealer just couldn't or wouldn't get around to ordering.
I use Mobile 1 synthetic oil and change my oil every two weeks when I'm on the road.... or every 100 hours.
My old rolling showroom is for sale and I'm going to take this generator that was on it originally and put it back on and then order a replacement of the same model.
BTW my Honda powered Husquavarna mower is getting ready to start it's third season and I've never had a moments concern re fuel/carb issues. I put it away late in the fall with a full tank...no sta-bul.. and then start it up in the early spring.
Keep your tank full at all times... run your motor often............ use synth. oil and keep on keep'in on.
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Old 02-26-2006, 07:59 PM   #28
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Hi Ken.

After storage the first year and upon starting up the first time of the season, my 2000 exhibited the same behaviour as yours: ran just OK with eco throttle OFF, but as soon as I turned the Eco on, it would start shaking and shimmieying like a lap dancer on crack. Well maybe not that bad. Besides, I wouldn't really know what a lap dancer on crack....again I digress.

I poured out all the "old" gas that was mixed with Stabil and put in new Premium (91?) gas with techron. Started up up, and this time very little if any shake, rattle or roll.

Also during the normal camping season, I also make it a point to start up and run the 2000 for 15 minutes or so to run some gas through the carb.

Cheers.

Jonathan
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