Honda 2000 propane generator connections

[hirstpb]

I just bought a Honda 2000 and companion from central marine diesel, both with the tri fuel conversion and the parallel kit. I want to run them both from the 2015 FC 28 propane tanks. How do I do that? I've looked through lots of online videos and read lots of threads on this and other forums, and just get more confused with each bit of knowledge. Does anyone have photos or a link that shows how this works? I'm thinking of a single supply line connecting to the Airstream quick connect, with a T-connector on the other end allowing connection of the two Honda 2000 generators. Then, how do I connect the Airstream 50 amp power cord? Presume a 30 amp to 50 amp pigtail plugged into the generator 30 amp outlet? Some photos would be worth many words. That said, any hints also appreciated.

[hirstpb]

Hmmm. I meant Central Maine Diesel. And, I just looked at the parallel connection wiring, and it has an integral 30 amp plug. So, that part answered. Will root around hardware stores tomorrow, or maybe try Camping World. I must be making this harder than it is. Mostly, I don't know the associated terminology (e.g., 1" FNPT connector), so when hoses and connectors are mentioned, it doesn't mean anything to me. Seems like the conversion and parallel kits should come fully equipped to plug in and operate!

[AStreamNerds]

When we purchased our pair of Honda's and the dealer included the parallel kit. I did a quick google search for it and came up with this from camping world.

Parallel Cables and 30-Amp RV Adapter Kit - Honda 08e92-hpk2031 - Generator Accessories - Camping World

At least you will have a picture of what you are looking for as far as an adapter to plug the AS power cord into the generator. Good Luck - I may be going the tri-fuel route with our generators soon.

[rodsterinfl]

I do not have the setup you have but I can post that once you have the generators connected together with their combo kit, you the connect the trailer electrical cord to the 30 amp outlet using an adapter. I believe that outlet is only on the companion unit.

As far as LP goes both need fuel so you would require a T connecting the two to one LP line and the the one line to a tank. I just got a quick connect for my tank hookup. That would benefit you too for the tank connection. The "quick connect" I refer to is the green acme screw on connector used on LP tanks- get one of those for the hose.

[ROBERT CROSS]

You should be able to find what you need

A brass T could split the line to each genset.

I run ours at the rear of the AS, so it runs on it's own tank.....

Bob

[hhendrix]

You need to read this article about bonding the neutral and ground on a plug. I had trouble with mine running in parallel until I did this: Generator Ground-Neutral Bonding | No~Shock~Zone

[guskmg]

I have a similar set up. I use 2 "Ys" and 2 green connectors with hoses, 1 on each tank. I am going to put a 3-way valve, think a "T" with a valve handle. That would go between the 2 high pressure hoses coming from the tank. This would give us the option of selecting the fullest tank for the genny. Or, isolating a nearly empty tank when running out of heating fuel. I really like my truck bed mounted genny. I had Airstream install a 50 amp service connection on the front of the trailer like the factory does the 30 amp option. So far, everything is great. guskmg

[GammaDog]

I think I do precisely what you're hoping to do. However, I had to fabricate the parts to do it.

Here's a pic of my two Honda 2000s running my trailer (we have a 25' with 30 amp service, but your 50 amp just requires an additional dogbone which many dealers provide with the trailer so you may already have that).



What you see in that pic are (obviously) the two Honda's... a standard EU2000 and a Companion. The black hose on the right is a 10 foot Camco quick disconnect low pressure propane hose. It's a standard item available online. The male end of that hose connects to the trailer's low pressure propane quick disconnect port the female end connects to a tee fitting which is shown sitting across the top of the two generators in the picture. That tee is made up of standard 1/4" brass fittings. The legs of that tee are female quick disconnect fittings which connect to the feed hoses of both generators. Note: the trailer's LP port and all the parts I use are 1/4" low pressure propane quick disconnects like the MB Sturgis model 250 series. Camco is interchangeable. The 3/8" standard is different.

On the electric side the two generators are tied together with a stock Honda parallel kit (three 4' wires in a bundle with appropriate fittings costing $5 and a $30 Honda logo). The trailer's 30 amp feed cable is plugged into an adapter to connect to the Comanion's 30 amp receptacle (note that the 30 amp receptacle on a Honda EU2000 is the three prong twist lock type... NOT a TT-30 receptacle that is used on travel trailers like ours. The black adapter you see in the pic is 30 amp three prong twist lock male and 30 amp TT female. Without that adapter the picture above is properly captioned "$2,500 propane powered boat anchor".)

The pic above was taken when I was running a test. When we are on the road the generators sit on a plywood platform on wheels which stows in the front of the pickup bed under a hard tonneau (Extang Solid Fold to be precise). That platform has the generators on the outside with exhausts pointing rear and in the middle two 20 lb LP cylinders like you use with a gas grill. They are mounted tandem (front and back) in holes in the platform. Generators and cylinders are strapped to the platform with nylon ratchet straps. With that gear, I can run either generator by itself (to charge batteries on the trailer or other low watt agate use) or both together (for microwave or AC but not both together). I can feed each off its own 20 lb cylinder; both of one of the 20s with the tee; one or both from the trailer's LP port; or from one of the 30 lb cylinders on the trailer while the other 30 pounder feeds the trailer's system. I can even back feed the trailer from the 20 lb cylinders if my two 30 pounders are empty.

In operation, I pull the platform to the tailgate and fire it up. In rain I leave them under the last fold of the tonneau with the tailgate down. Watch exhaust to avoid fumes in the trailer.

I think the reason you can't find the parts to do what you are doing is that there are 1,001 different generator and fuel combinations and at least that many more ways to use them. Each combination requires slightly different hardware. But it wouldn't be so much fun if that wasn't the case and I wouldn't get to write ad nauseaum about what I had to construct to make mine work the way I wanted to.

If you are looking to do something close to what I've described, fire away with questions.

[hirstpb]

Hey all, thanks for the detailed information. For GammaDog, your hookup looks like what I'm trying to do. I already have the 10' camco hose, with the male quick connect joining the Airstream female quick connect. So, now I need the T. Where did you get those connections? I struck out at Camping World and Lowes. Also, what size hose do you run from the T connector? Both length and diameter? Finally, how do you connect the supply lines to the generators? The conversion from Central Maine Diesel has a 1" female NPT connection. I did get a supply line from them to operate a single Honda 2000 directly from a stand alone 20 lb propane tank. It has the green acme fitting and a regulator on one end; then a five foot ⅜" hose and, on the other end, a connector (I don't know the size) joining the hose to a 1" male NPT, which then connects to the generator. I found an online source for fittings and hoses, where it appears I can get everything needed. Just trying to do it right the first time! Of course, that would be a first, so I expect there will be several iterations!!!

[ROBERT CROSS]

Let me ask a dumb question......

Has anyone tried t-ing AFTER the low pressure regulator on the genset?

Our regulator is spec't for up to 10hp and the load block has a LOT of mixture adjustment, I wouldn't be at all surprised if it could supply two 2000 Honda's.



Think of it as a two cylinder generator....



Bob

[rmkrum]

If the crankshafts were tied together this might work. Otherwise I suspect minor differences in airflow would make one run rich and the other lean, then start 'hunting' and oscillating. Better to have one propane regulator on each genset. Twould be a plumbing and adjusting nightmare IMHO. Remember that the airflow through the carb pulses a bit because it's one cylinder 4 stroke engine. It would be a PITA to make it work.


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[GammaDog]

To hirstpb's question: brass plumbing fittings are like the erector set from hell. There are hundreds of fittings in the catalogue in a range of sizes and types. I started by defining what I needed and it was this: a tee fitting in 1/4" with a single male MB Sturgis Model 250 low pressure propane connection and two female ports. I could not find a complete commercial product built that way so I headed to Home Depot... then to my local Tru Value... then to the Internet to find the individual pieces. Here's a pic of the tee and the 10' Camco hose.



The tee is built up from six individual components. They are:

At the center, a 1/4" npt (national pipe thread) machined brass fitting. This is sometimes known as a 'fff' fitting since all three ports are female threaded. Here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metal...951108&sr=1-11

Two legs of that tee have MB Sturgis model 250 low pressure propane female quick disconnect ports like this: https://www.rvupgradestore.com/model...-p/66-7069.htm

Since those Sturgis parts are female threaded and the tee is also, they must be joined with 1/4" nipples like these...

1/4" X 1/4" not brass nipple: http://www.amazon.com/MettleAir-122-.../dp/B00820NFLQ

The final fitting is an MB Sturgis 250 male fitting which is already 1/4" male npt and does not need a nipple. Here's that fitting: MB Sturgis Model 250 Male Quick Disconnect Plug - Tees & Fittings - LP Gas - RV Appliances

When assembling parts for propane or natural gas you should use Teflon (PTFE) tape rated for gas. It is thicker than the standard tape and is usually yellow. It is also important to leak test components of this type. Spend the $5 for a bottle of actual leak detector solution that will be in the store near the gas-rated tape. Sure, your kids bubble blowing solution may be the same stuff... but do you want to take that chance?

As for the regulator feed line, mine came with 3/8" fittings and ended with a 3/8 female flare. Note that a flare is similar to npt but while the npt fittings are cut square on the end and rely on the threads to form the pressure seal, flare fittings have a machined bevel that forms part to seal. I bought a 3/8 male flare to 1/4" female npt fitting for the end of each hose and another male Sturgis 250 for each. Teflon for gas and leaked tested... Voila! ... both generators ready to plug into the tee or directly to the trailer port.

You didn't ask, but let me add that I did the same for the two regulators that I carry for e 20 lb LP cylinders that ride with the generators on the plywood platform in the truck bed. In that case I bought adapters to add the Sturgis 250 female fittings to each regulator.

Let me know if that answers the question about fittings.

I have tested this configuration under full load to see if I can starve the generators for furl by running the stove burners, fridge and water heater with both generators powering the AC. We live at 5' above sea level. Here in the warm, thick air the trailer's gas system handles all of that. I have used a generator to charge batteries at 7,500'. No problem. I have not done low temperature tests.

To Robert Cross: The gizmo bolted to the generator is a special type of regulator. I think of it as a "demand regulator" although a propane engineer may have a better term for it. It is functionally the same as a carburetor for a gasoline engine. Yours may have a tube from the demand regulator that dead ends inside the case of the Honda and connects to nothing (mine has that). That is a "static tube" which senses the air pressure adjacent to the air intake of the engine. When the generator calls for more fuel and the throttle opens, the relative pressure between the propane Venturi and that static tube changes and the demand regulator flows more propane. Thus, fuel flow coordinates with airflow thanks to the demand regulator. It may be possible for one demand regulator to feed two Venturis, but they would both be getting fuel at a rate determined by just one of them. Since the air and fuel flow would no longer by coordinated on the slaved engine, I suspect it would stall from a too rich mixture as soon as its controlling peer opened its throttle and called for fuel.

[uc71953]

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

Let me ask a dumb question......

Has anyone tried t-ing AFTER the low pressure regulator on the genset?

Our regulator is spec't for up to 10hp and the load block has a LOT of mixture adjustment, I wouldn't be at all surprised if it could supply two 2000 Honda's.



Think of it as a two cylinder generator....



Bob

That is not a low pressure regulator, its a demand regulator or a "zero governor."

Each generator you use needs one of its own. Its job is to sense vacuum pressure and deliver fuel as long as there is a vacuum present. Its the critical piece of any gen conversion. If you use one demand regulator for two downstream conversions, and one generator quits working (low oil switch goes bad for example) the other one will still be pulling a vacuum and thus allowing fuel to flow into the stalled unit. This could cause an explosion once enough fuel gets out. You need one zero governor for each unit. Not worth the danger to skimp on a $50 item.