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Old 09-13-2013, 12:33 PM   #29
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I like the idea of mounting them on the roof of the cover on your truck. Up and out of the way to leave more space for other things.Might have to add some support to the top, Not very likely to have any problem with people trying to steal them. The height would be legal but you would have to watch where you drove to, Probably no drive thru windows anywhere, no parking garages or anywhere that has low clearance. If you go that route post some pics to let us see how you did it.
Surely you jest. The cg of trucks is high enough. Another recipe for disaster.

Dan
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:02 PM   #30
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[QUOTE=CanoeStream;1353687]TouringDan -- thanks for the post and unfortunately this is only a snapshot in time. Sadly, to make this work one would need to double or triple the vertical cross section of a beam.

Ever been in an old San Francisco building with the engineered diagonal earthquake resistant cross-bracing added? I'd really need to see detailed pics of how the Springfest guy went above the floor and created such a rigid structure. Just sistering I-beams or adding plate reinforcement doesn't convince me until I know more.

Bob

I understand your concern since I have a mechanical engineering degree. However, I think that lots of folks on this forum have what I will refer to as the "Chicken Little" mentality concerning adding weight like a bicycle rack to the rear of an Airstream. Of course all this goes back to the rear end separation that some older Airstreams have experienced. Nobody really knows the consequences of adding a bicycle rack to the rear end of a modern Airstream unless somebody actually does it, and then we can observe the consequesnces. I believe that Mr. Springfest will experience some severe consequences over time. None of us knows how long that will take. Hopefully we will find out when and if he ever becomes part of this wonderful forum. However, maybe he won't have problems. Then we will need to find out how he designed and installed the additional structure.

Dan

ps: I would really like to know how much weight he is actually hanging off the back end.
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Old 09-13-2013, 01:15 PM   #31
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Dan,

Looks like his WB# is 3157, maybe we could ask him.

His trunk is open...

Bob
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Old 09-13-2013, 02:26 PM   #32
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Surely you jest. The cg of trucks is high enough. Another recipe for disaster.

Dan
I JEST NOT! I don't care if you have 5 engineering degrees 150 lbs on top is NOT going to cause any CG problems whatsoever. You would not even know that was up there other than clearance problems.
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Old 09-13-2013, 03:26 PM   #33
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I had a friend who mounted his generater on tongue on top of batteries behind propane...toally not legal but dealer did it anyway. The trailer was a sob. That was a disaster waiting to happen.

Why is this not legal?

What if you removed one of the propane tanks to make room/save weight and built an appropriate frame to hold the generators? I have seen people add spare tire carriers, fuel tanks and bicycle racks to the tongue.
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Old 09-13-2013, 03:55 PM   #34
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I carry a Honda 1000i on top of my battery box. I riveted tracks to the cover of the box so the generator can't slide and then tie it down with straps and put a locking cable on it for security. A 2000i could fit, but taking it on and off might scratch the Airstream, so I went with a 1000i.
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Old 09-13-2013, 04:02 PM   #35
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I JEST NOT! I don't care if you have 5 engineering degrees 150 lbs on top is NOT going to cause any CG problems whatsoever. You would not even know that was up there other than clearance problems.
That depends. A Mercedes Benz Sprinter (such as my Interstate) has a well-engineered metal roof. The low-roof Sprinters have a rooftop cargo capacity of 600 pounds. The high-roof Sprinters, still with a well-engineered metal roof, have a rooftop cargo capacity of 300 pounds, only half as much. The roof is just as strong on both models. The difference between the two models is in rollover stability, and a mere sixteen inches of extra height cuts the rooftop load capacity in half.

When it comes to rollover stability, how high the load is DOES make a difference. You can't finesse the laws of physics.

Unless you're qualified to do the calculations on rollover stability yourself, or hire someone who is qualified, you shouldn't consider it.

Having expressed concern for your safety, we still have to admit that you're free to ignore any and all advice and go ahead anyway.
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Old 09-13-2013, 04:42 PM   #36
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I have a roof rack on the top of my truck that should be able to handle more than 150 pounds? Clearance and drag are my main concerns there. I do like the slide out idea, but I'm planning on traveling for months at a time, and will use the back of my truck as a storage room loaded up with all kinds of equipment so having to leave it wide open in order to use the generator isn't ideal for me. I plan on mostly camping off-grid in isolated areas. Why is running the generator unattended or at night so bad (they come with an auto shut off feature if it gets too hot or runs out of oil)? What are the risks and concerns here? As I mentioned I have two small dogs, so my thinking was, if it's hot outside and I go for a hike or leave for a few hours, I switch on the generators and turn on the AC to prevent sweltering interior temps. I have ordered a temp alert to go with a video alarm system, but that only alerts you, it does nothing to change the fact that it is too hot. It doesn't take long for an animal to die in a hot vehicle and these are not really dogs, they're my two sons
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:08 PM   #37
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Quote:
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That depends. A Mercedes Benz Sprinter (such as my Interstate) has a well-engineered metal roof. The low-roof Sprinters have a rooftop cargo capacity of 600 pounds. The high-roof Sprinters, still with a well-engineered metal roof, have a rooftop cargo capacity of 300 pounds, only half as much. The roof is just as strong on both models. The difference between the two models is in rollover stability, and a mere sixteen inches of extra height cuts the rooftop load capacity in half.

When it comes to rollover stability, how high the load is DOES make a difference. You can't finesse the laws of physics.

Unless you're qualified to do the calculations on rollover stability yourself, or hire someone who is qualified, you shouldn't consider it.

Having expressed concern for your safety, we still have to admit that you're free to ignore any and all advice and go ahead anyway.
If you were putting a thousand pounds up there or something very tall on top I would agree. 2 of those small honda generators you will never even know they are up there.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:43 PM   #38
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Question

Maia,

Consider carefully transporting/running two generators on the roof of your truck.

They do vibrate some, they will need to be secured while running in a way that will allow them to be re-fueled easily. I see no way for that to be a fun task.
The Honda is an easy start on the ground, starting two on the roof could be problematic. Don't forget your trailer power cord will also have to be routed and secured.

Ladders, generators and fuel containers could very well turn out rather unwell.

Running on the roof and it starts to rain.....I hate going out to roll up the awning , getting the ladder out to climb up on the truck roof, bring them down and put them away.....PITA

Generators running on the roof would be a magnet for the curious. More than curious, and they may be gone, more secure would mean more difficult to set-up and operate.

Two generators running in parallel unattended, on the roof....not sure it's advisable. I would ask the expert...
In fact ask him everything.


We are also dog owners....
If the windows and both vents are open with the fans on high,(one in, one out), I think it would be safe in all but the most extreme cases.

Bob
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:14 PM   #39
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I have a slide out inside the bed of my pickup with a fiberglass cap. My Honda 3000 sits on the tail end of the slide out. When I need AC power I open the cap and tailgate, pull out the slide out just to the end of the tailgate and run the generator in place. No lifting or struggling. If there is a sudden rainstorm I can quickly shut down, unplug and slide the generator in and close things up until it passes. Bad idea to leave the generator running at a campsite with no supervision. The slide out also gives me easy access to the rest of my camping gear as it is the full length of the truck bed and will support the generator fully extended. It is the best solution that I have found for my needs.
Any pictures of the slide out and brand?
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:23 PM   #40
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Maia,

Consider carefully transporting/running two generators on the roof of your truck.

They do vibrate some, they will need to be secured while running in a way that will allow them to be re-fueled easily. I see no way for that to be a fun task.
The Honda is an easy start on the ground, starting two on the roof could be problematic. Don't forget your trailer power cord will also have to be routed and secured.

Ladders, generators and fuel containers could very well turn out rather unwell.

Running on the roof and it starts to rain.....I hate going out to roll up the awning , getting the ladder out to climb up on the truck roof, bring them down and put them away.....PITA

Generators running on the roof would be a magnet for the curious. More than curious, and they may be gone, more secure would mean more difficult to set-up and operate.

Two generators running in parallel unattended, on the roof....not sure it's advisable. I would ask the expert...
In fact ask him everything.


We are also dog owners....
If the windows and both vents are open with the fans on high,(one in, one out), I think it would be safe in all but the most extreme cases.

Bob
I plan on buying a locking galvanized steel enclosure that is specially designed to house generators. I found them online at a marine supply company and they'll make them to order to fit any model of generator for a fairly reasonable price (they quoted me about $375 for a box to house both). They have slide off panels that allow for air circulation while running or total enclosure while transporting or not in use, as well as access holes to pull the cord and re-fill the fuel. The top of my truck is easily accessible with a folding aluminum ladder. I would mount the steel box enclosure on my roof rack (I have a A.R.E. commercial metal canopy with a rack) hopefully in a way that can be detached while I'm not traveling. The generators would be fully protected from the rain and elements, secure, and out of the way whether they're running or not. I was considering putting a high density 3/4" foam mat under the box to reduce vibration and noise. I have a gym on the 2nd floor of my home with a PowerPlate machine that is basically just a vibrating platform. It shakes your skull and rattles your brains if you're not in a braced position! It also rattles like crazy on hardwood floors but when it's on top of a foam mat like the one I described almost all of the vibration is absorbed. These generators have nowhere near the vibration of the PowerPlate. I spoke with the guy who installed my canopy today and he said it wouldn't be a problem to attach the enclosure box with generators on the roof rack. Like I said, clearance and drag from wind resistance are issues. The enclosure box would be approx 36"W x 18" H x 23"D weighing approx 150 pounds. Thanks for adding the link to "ask the expert", I want to have a clear picture of the risks, benefits, and tradeoffs before I go forward. Better to do it right the first time around than learn the hard way. Why do you say you need to secure the power cord? Are those frequently stolen as well? Geez, I guess anything that isn't nailed down huh?
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:30 PM   #41
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I plan on buying a locking galvanized steel enclosure that is specially designed to house generators. I found them online at a marine supply company and they'll make them to order to fit any model of generator for a fairly reasonable price (they quoted me about $375 for a box to house both). They have slide off panels that allow for air circulation while running or total enclosure while transporting or not in use, as well as access holes to pull the cord and re-fill the fuel. The top of my truck is easily accessible with a folding aluminum ladder. I would mount the steel box enclosure on my roof rack (I have a A.R.E. commercial metal canopy with a rack) hopefully in a way that can be detached while I'm not traveling. The generators would be fully protected from the rain and elements, secure, and out of the way whether they're running or not. I was considering putting a high density 3/4" foam mat under the box to reduce vibration and noise. I have a gym on the 2nd floor of my home with a PowerPlate machine that is basically just a vibrating platform. It shakes your skull and rattles your brains if you're not in a braced position! It also rattles like crazy on hardwood floors but when it's on top of a foam mat like the one I described almost all of the vibration is absorbed. These generators have nowhere near the vibration of the PowerPlate. I spoke with the guy who installed my canopy today and he said it wouldn't be a problem to attach the enclosure box with generators on the roof rack. Like I said, clearance and drag from wind resistance are issues. The enclosure box would be approx 36"W x 18" H x 23"D weighing approx 150 pounds. Thanks for adding the link to "ask the expert", I want to have a clear picture of the risks, benefits, and tradeoffs before I go forward. Better to do it right the first time around than learn the hard way. Why do you say you need to secure the power cord? Are those frequently stolen as well? Geez, I guess anything that isn't nailed down huh?
***150 pound including the generator
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:35 PM   #42
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Well you are certainly covering all your bases....good luck!!

Bob
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