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Old 04-07-2007, 05:57 PM   #1
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2005 19' International CCD
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Generator Calculations?

I have an 11000 btu Penguin Air Conditioner on my 2005 19 ccd.
This unit says the compressor is load rated at 10.7 amps and the fan motor
at 3.1 amps for a total of 13.8 amps.

The Honda EU2000i is rated at 2000W and 16.7 amps maximum and 1600W and 13.3 amps "normal"?.

We have no micro wave, so, it looks like the EU 2000 will run my ac, and perhaps the LCD tele & a light or two.

I would guess a yamaha 2400 will be the extra margin of safety, but I like Honda?

What do those with some experience think?
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Old 04-07-2007, 07:28 PM   #2
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Now 2 EU2000s tied together is perfect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigD
... so, it looks like the EU 2000 will run my ac, and perhaps ...
It will run it, but a 2000 watt generator will not start it.

Air conditioners pull a start-up surge to get the compressor running. On a perfect day when all the stars are aligned & the moon is in the proper phase, one EU2000 will work for what you have outlined.

Most days are not like that.

Tom
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Old 04-07-2007, 07:42 PM   #3
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if i remember correctly my manual states that a 13500 btu ac requires a 3600 watt unit.

john
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Old 04-07-2007, 07:53 PM   #4
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During the aftermath of Hurrican Wilma, we were without power for 10 days. We had a Yamaha EF2400iS and used it to power the fridge and a portable room A/C rated at 10,000BTU. We never had a problem starting the A/C, but we did unplug the fridge when we turned the unit on and re-connected the fridge after it was running. We also powered a few lamps after both were running. At least one room was comfy! Didn't have the CCD yet, so I can't speak directly about the Airstream.

I now have a 6500 watt Onan with LP conversion and a hardwired transfer switch, but still use that room A/C in an emergency.

Get the Yamaha. Their web site says it will start and power a 13.5K A/C.

And don't forget. The RV air conditioners use start capacitors to give the units the extra 'jolt' they need for starting. In fact, I get a lot of service calls for units that won't cool, and the problem usually is a burnt start capacitor or PTCR. The compressors won't start without them, regardless of the amperage available.
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Old 04-07-2007, 07:58 PM   #5
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I have the 2400is also. It will run mine with no apparent trouble. Im not sure if I have an 11,000 or 15,000 BTU as the manual I have covers both and I wasnt able to find what model I have by looking (maybe I just dont know where to look). Having said that I just ran it 10 min or so to see if it could cope. I have no idea how it would do for an extended period.
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Old 04-07-2007, 08:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen Disarray
I have the 2400is also. It will run mine with no apparent trouble. Im not sure if I have an 11,000 or 15,000 BTU as the manual I have covers both and I wasnt able to find what model I have by looking (maybe I just dont know where to look). Having said that I just ran it 10 min or so to see if it could cope. I have no idea how it would do for an extended period.
Rodney,

If you want to find your model and serial #'s, remove the inside grill that holds the filter. You should see a 5 X 5 silver control box. If you look ABOVE that box on the upper unit itself, you should see 3 sets of #'s: model, product and serial #'s.

Get them to me and I'll look up the capacity of your A/C.
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Old 04-07-2007, 08:20 PM   #7
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Looks like you successfully overcame startup

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen Disarray
... Having said that I just ran it 10 min or so to see if it could cope. ...
If it produced cold air within a minute of being switched on then I would say you are "good for the long haul" for running your air conditioner.

Tom
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Old 04-07-2007, 08:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Rodney,

If you want to find your model and serial #'s, remove the inside grill that holds the filter. You should see a 5 X 5 silver control box. If you look ABOVE that box on the upper unit itself, you should see 3 sets of #'s: model, product and serial #'s.

Get them to me and I'll look up the capacity of your A/C.
Thanks! Im afraid to find out.
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Old 04-08-2007, 09:14 PM   #9
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I just went through all of this for a work boat, well nevermind why, but the Yamaha with the Boost option looked like a good candidate. We went with a 6.2 kw Honda for the extra overhead and the dead silent operation. The funny part is the air on startup pulls 2-3 times max power. Otherwise we could have gotten by with a 2kw unit or a 1 kw without any air.
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