Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-23-2011, 02:36 AM   #15
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 23' FB International
Currently Looking...
Bismark , Bahamas
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
Yes, thanks. Unfortunately it's 6 years old though hardly used, so no longer under warranty.

In any case, I've replaced fuel injection and other parts in my car, I should be able to attempt this...

So I did manage to take off the covers just a while ago.

Seems like the on/off valve is not letting fuel through. I turn the valve on and see only a couple of drops of gas per minute flowing through gravity. The valve does not look like a serviceable part though – looks permanently sealed. I guess, it’s either broken or just clogged.

Any suggestions? Solvents?

I'll detach the fuel lines from the valve --- but its late now and I would have to catch the fuel -- looks like a daytime job -- stay tuned...
__________________

__________________
PaulR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 02:57 AM   #16
Rivet Master
 
2005 19' Safari
GLENDALE , AZ
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,441
If you can get it out, I'd look for a mechanical clog. Although, you may not be able to remove it; and may have to replace that fuel switch/valve.

I had a motorcycle when I was much younger, and a fuel line clog turned out to be a bug that had gotten in the gas. Also, I once used some old fuel that had been sitting in a 5-gallon can for an undetermined time (dumb idea), and it had what looked like shreds of black, plastic-looking, spongy chips in it -- lots of it. I always wondered if the metal tank had some kind of plastic coating on the inside that had deteriorated over the years. Who knows.

In any case, I'll bet a chunk of something got sucked up in the fuel line. Regarding the fuel pump, we had a small outboard motor (again, years ago) that had the fuel pump fail. I was looking for something that looked like a miniature automobile fuel pump. However, when I finally found out what I was supposed to be looking for, from someone else that had a similar motor, it turned out to be a little rubber tube-looking thing that worked like a balloon, that was pumped up and deflated by pressure from the cylinder (it was a two-cycle motor) -- not at all what I expected. So, hours and hours of troubleshooting to find a little rubber part that looked like it was worth 15-cents, and cost $2 or so. HOWEVER, I do not know what the fuel pump in a 2000i looks like. Sorry for rambling. (Old-timers disease, I guess; and it's late...)
__________________

__________________
Phoenix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2011, 08:45 AM   #17
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,153
Images: 1
PaulR,

Thanks'...have had my 2000i for 5 years and never realized that the mystery fuel line went to the shut-down switch on the front panel.

I converted ours to dual use LPG/gas 4 years ago and use this rather simplistic clamp,(top right), to shut off gas supply when switching from gas to LPG or preparing for Winter storage, start on gas, close the clamp when it starts to stumble open LPG or let it stall for storage.
I suppose I could drain the carb before switching to LPG, but never liked the idea of possible gas vapors around a running gen.

Bob
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	HONDA CONVERSION add vid pix2-3 006.jpg
Views:	91
Size:	123.2 KB
ID:	140824  
__________________
PFC.....

“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
RLC
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 01:55 AM   #18
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 23' FB International
Currently Looking...
Bismark , Bahamas
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
I guess the defective part seems to be the fuel filter that is embedded into the fuel line right where the fuel line comes out of the tank.

!! That fuel filter is almost impossible to imagine exists unless you know about it, or undo the connection between fuel tank and fuel line!

A second problem is that the fuel hose has also degraded in a strange way. Right where the fuel filter ends, for about ¼” the fuel hose has become really soft and thin!! I cannot understand how that happened.

In any case, both the fuel line from tank to on/off valve as well as the fuel filter need to be replaced. Where do I find parts? I looked online and nothing stood out. Are Honda dealers the best choice for EU2000i parts?
__________________
PaulR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 05:04 AM   #19
Rivet Master
 
2005 19' Safari
GLENDALE , AZ
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,441
I don't know if this was done; however, I used to work in a clean room where they had an aerosol particle counter that used special medical tubing as a "sniffer" to sample for airborne particles. It was used, because it didn't sluff of particles, itself, and contaminate the sampled air.

Anyway, it was purchased in a slightly larger diameter than fit on the stub it was plugged onto; and to get a tight fit, we stretched it out, which shrunk the overall diameter of the tubing, especially the inside diameter, and the wall thickness.

I wonder if this may have been done, either by the factory or during later maintenance where the fuel line was replaced.

This probably isn't good on fuel line, but for the particle counter, the tubing got replace regularly; and the line only carried room air at lower pressure than sucking a drink through a straw.
__________________
Phoenix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 07:29 AM   #20
Rivet Master
 
ZoominC6's Avatar
 
2004 30' Classic Slideout
Colleyville , Texas
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 1,502
For all of us using generators, it's good practice after each and every use to completely drain the fuel tanks, fire up the generators until they run out of fuel and restart again until the fuel is out of the carb. This practice will prevent gumming up the fuel system at the carb. Changing the oil on a regular basis will also prolong the life of the unit as with any engine but especially with small generators.
__________________
In dog years, I'm dead!
ZoominC6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 07:54 AM   #21
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 11,153
Images: 1
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoominC6 View Post
For all of us using generators, it's good practice after each and every use to completely drain the fuel tanks, fire up the generators until they run out of fuel and restart again until the fuel is out of the carb. This practice will prevent gumming up the fuel system at the carb. Changing the oil on a regular basis will also prolong the life of the unit as with any engine but especially with small generators.
Zoom's rite...

The one nice thing about my Mickey Mouse clamp.
After camping, if it will sit un-used for awhile, I never shut down while running on LPG, always switch to gas, couple turns on the MM clamp and let it run dry. Over the Winter empty the gas tank.
When ready to use again, turn on the gas, let it run for awhile, shut off, starts to stumble, switch on LPG and go. Keeping both systems clean and working makes the most sense, if you have both use both or one might leave you silly faced.

Bob
__________________
PFC.....

“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
RLC

Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
but I’m the Husband, so we went to Cleveland.
RLC
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 08:51 PM   #22
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 23' FB International
Currently Looking...
Bismark , Bahamas
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
Thanks for all the advice. Parts (fuel filter and fuel line) are on the way through boats.com …


Here is a photo of the fuel line degradation It shows how about a 1/4" section right after the filter has degraded (become soft and thin).




__________________
PaulR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2011, 11:58 PM   #23
Rivet Master
 
2005 19' Safari
GLENDALE , AZ
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,441
That looks kind of like shrink tubing or an external sleeve. If you replace this section of hose, it might be interesting to slice that open and see if it is. Also, I wonder what the filter looks like; is it in that bulge?
__________________
Phoenix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 01:16 AM   #24
1 Rivet Member
 
2012 23' FB International
Currently Looking...
Bismark , Bahamas
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 10
Not much to the filter. This is the hose coming out f the fuel tank:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/37943868/IMG_0677.JPG

Then when you pull it out it looks like this:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/37943868/IMG_0679.JPG

The bottom 3/4” of the filter goes in the fuel hose bulge, then the remaining 1.5” sticks up into the fuel tank. I guess that is what prevents the stuff that may accumulate at the bottom of the tank from ending up in the carburetor. Once I get the new fuel line, I’ll cut the old one – see if I can figure out why it deteriorated that way.
__________________
PaulR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 07:35 AM   #25
Rivet Master
 
noreen&sal's Avatar
 
1981 27' Excella II
mays landing , South Jersey
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,179
Images: 9
A lot of bad fuel lines on small engines due to grain alcohol in gas. Sal.
__________________
Sal & Nora
Let us live so that when we die even the undertaker will be sorry. Mark Twain
AIR 42483
TAC N.J. 17
WBCCI 24740
noreen&sal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 07:45 AM   #26
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,410
Images: 5
I'm not sure about that. The graphics in the service manual look like this is a formed hose and not just a length of generic fuel hose. It shows a bulge for the filter and formed curves on both the hoses to the carb, through the valve. Might just be the way they draw them. It'll be interesting to hear what the replacement hose looks like.
__________________
dznf0g is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 09:56 AM   #27
Rivet Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 811
Running out the fuel on a Honda generator is not enough to prevent problems. There is a drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl. Open it to drain out all the fuel. The procedure is explained in the Owners' Manual. Even when the engine is run dry, there is a small amount of fuel leftover that will cause problems if left in the bowl.
I hope replacing the line and filter is enough to cure the poster's problems. Generally, when the fuel line breaks down, it will leave crud in the carb.
I think I am pretty handy but working on those tiny carburetors is tough. I tried and ended up taking mine to the Honda repair place.
__________________
handn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2011, 11:47 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
dznf0g's Avatar

 
2007 30' Classic
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9,410
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by handn View Post
Running out the fuel on a Honda generator is not enough to prevent problems. There is a drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl. Open it to drain out all the fuel. The procedure is explained in the Owners' Manual. Even when the engine is run dry, there is a small amount of fuel leftover that will cause problems if left in the bowl.
I hope replacing the line and filter is enough to cure the poster's problems. Generally, when the fuel line breaks down, it will leave crud in the carb.
I think I am pretty handy but working on those tiny carburetors is tough. I tried and ended up taking mine to the Honda repair place.
I agree with this. I tried the disconnect the electrical...and run "dry". There was still about 1ml of fuel that drained out of the drain hose. The only advantage I see with the "disconnect" method is:
1) you only have to contend with a tiny bit of drained fuel, which can simply be soaked up in a paper towel, instead of maybe 2 ounces.
2) Arguably, you may be purging some of the fuel downstream of the pump, in the lines, which would remain by any other mentioned method of draining, other than running the tank dry.

By whatever method you choose, I think it is important to leave the carb bowl as dry as possible. I only drain the tank for long periods of inactivity. Otherwise I use Sta-bil in the tank.
__________________

__________________
dznf0g is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Generator won't start! Lily&Me Generators & Solar Power 14 09-11-2012 06:23 AM
Honda EU2000i Benjo Generators & Solar Power 24 02-08-2012 07:41 AM
Start capacitor for Armstrong 14 A/C pdwhitt Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 3 10-04-2011 04:01 PM
High idle, or maybe stuck throttle and hugely loud revving noise at start. PuffinPotter Classic Motorhomes 33 08-08-2011 12:47 PM
Honda EU2000i Vibrates in eco mode only? Patriot666 Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 11 05-10-2011 08:55 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.