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Old 09-24-2011, 06:54 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoominC6 View Post
For all of us using generators, it's good practice after each and every use to completely drain the fuel tanks, fire up the generators until they run out of fuel and restart again until the fuel is out of the carb. This practice will prevent gumming up the fuel system at the carb. Changing the oil on a regular basis will also prolong the life of the unit as with any engine but especially with small generators.
Zoom's rite...

The one nice thing about my Mickey Mouse clamp.
After camping, if it will sit un-used for awhile, I never shut down while running on LPG, always switch to gas, couple turns on the MM clamp and let it run dry. Over the Winter empty the gas tank.
When ready to use again, turn on the gas, let it run for awhile, shut off, starts to stumble, switch on LPG and go. Keeping both systems clean and working makes the most sense, if you have both use both or one might leave you silly faced.

Bob
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Old 09-24-2011, 07:51 PM   #22
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Thanks for all the advice. Parts (fuel filter and fuel line) are on the way through boats.com …


Here is a photo of the fuel line degradation It shows how about a 1/4" section right after the filter has degraded (become soft and thin).




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Old 09-24-2011, 10:58 PM   #23
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That looks kind of like shrink tubing or an external sleeve. If you replace this section of hose, it might be interesting to slice that open and see if it is. Also, I wonder what the filter looks like; is it in that bulge?
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:16 AM   #24
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Not much to the filter. This is the hose coming out f the fuel tank:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/37943868/IMG_0677.JPG

Then when you pull it out it looks like this:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/37943868/IMG_0679.JPG

The bottom 3/4” of the filter goes in the fuel hose bulge, then the remaining 1.5” sticks up into the fuel tank. I guess that is what prevents the stuff that may accumulate at the bottom of the tank from ending up in the carburetor. Once I get the new fuel line, I’ll cut the old one – see if I can figure out why it deteriorated that way.
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:35 AM   #25
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A lot of bad fuel lines on small engines due to grain alcohol in gas. Sal.
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Old 09-25-2011, 06:45 AM   #26
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I'm not sure about that. The graphics in the service manual look like this is a formed hose and not just a length of generic fuel hose. It shows a bulge for the filter and formed curves on both the hoses to the carb, through the valve. Might just be the way they draw them. It'll be interesting to hear what the replacement hose looks like.
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Old 09-25-2011, 08:56 AM   #27
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Running out the fuel on a Honda generator is not enough to prevent problems. There is a drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl. Open it to drain out all the fuel. The procedure is explained in the Owners' Manual. Even when the engine is run dry, there is a small amount of fuel leftover that will cause problems if left in the bowl.
I hope replacing the line and filter is enough to cure the poster's problems. Generally, when the fuel line breaks down, it will leave crud in the carb.
I think I am pretty handy but working on those tiny carburetors is tough. I tried and ended up taking mine to the Honda repair place.
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Old 09-25-2011, 10:47 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by handn View Post
Running out the fuel on a Honda generator is not enough to prevent problems. There is a drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl. Open it to drain out all the fuel. The procedure is explained in the Owners' Manual. Even when the engine is run dry, there is a small amount of fuel leftover that will cause problems if left in the bowl.
I hope replacing the line and filter is enough to cure the poster's problems. Generally, when the fuel line breaks down, it will leave crud in the carb.
I think I am pretty handy but working on those tiny carburetors is tough. I tried and ended up taking mine to the Honda repair place.
I agree with this. I tried the disconnect the electrical...and run "dry". There was still about 1ml of fuel that drained out of the drain hose. The only advantage I see with the "disconnect" method is:
1) you only have to contend with a tiny bit of drained fuel, which can simply be soaked up in a paper towel, instead of maybe 2 ounces.
2) Arguably, you may be purging some of the fuel downstream of the pump, in the lines, which would remain by any other mentioned method of draining, other than running the tank dry.

By whatever method you choose, I think it is important to leave the carb bowl as dry as possible. I only drain the tank for long periods of inactivity. Otherwise I use Sta-bil in the tank.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:22 AM   #29
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It is sad that the ethanol content in current automotive gas is playing hell with many many small engine parts which were not designed for the alcohol they are seeing now. In addition, the shelf life of gas is very poor these days, and although Stabil or Seafoam are wonderful products, even they cannot correct the basic problems of the current fuels.

If at all possible, I would recommend anyone with a small generator, mowers, weed whackers, chain saws etc. find a source of non Alcohol gasoline. Even here in remote Idaho one station sells premium with a label on the pump that says No Alcohol in the premium from this pump. It is a very popular pump now, as lots of people are finding issues with their small engines. I have switched over and it is interesting to see how much better even my two ATV's from the 2000 era run.

I think you can imagine how small the passageways in the Honda carbs must be to meter the tiny amount of fuel they use at low load. It does not take much to clog those holes up, especially from deteriorated hoses and parts not designed for Alcohol use.

So, my long term solution is non alcohol fuel and Stabil or Seafoam stabilizer, and even then, replace the fuel after a year. If possible drain the float bowls on storage.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:27 AM   #30
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HANDN, Thanks for the post. I shall consult my Owner's Manual regarding the extra drain.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:44 AM   #31
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Honda small engine fuel pumps run on Crankcase pressure. Initially you won't get good flow until the engine starts. It has to be connected to the engine to get fuel flow. I put some fuel injector cleaner in my fuel tank and that smoothed out the engine after about ten minutes.

I use only non-ethenol premium gasoline in my generators, chainsaw, and motorcycle.
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:02 PM   #32
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Its a sin

ruining good corn liquor by putting gasoline in it. Sal.
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Old 09-25-2011, 03:12 PM   #33
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Boats can't stand ethanol ether, use Marine Sta-bil in your gen-gas.

No pure gas available NYS, not even at the marinas, possibly at private airfields but not worth burning 5gal to get 5gal.

Bob
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Old 10-08-2011, 01:48 AM   #34
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Ok. Parts (fuel filter and fuel hose from tank to on/off valve) from boats.net came in and I replaced them....

So now gas gets to the carburetor... and the EU2000i STARTS!!!

So the problem was that the degraded and deformed fuel line was obstructing the exit of the fuel filter.

--------------------
However, it runs only with choke almost fully on. Some more gunk must have gotten into the carburetor. So I need to open and clean carburetor again...
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Old 10-08-2011, 06:11 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulR View Post

--------------------
However, it runs only with choke almost fully on. Some more gunk must have gotten into the carburetor. So I need to open and clean carburetor again...
Paul,

Spray some starter fluid around the carb base and LPG line, if the idle goes up you may have a vacuum leak.

Bob
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:43 AM   #36
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Finally! The EU2000i is running properly – like new.

Had to clean the carburetor one more time and that did the trick.

================================================

For posterity, this is my best guess summary of what happened to my EU2000:

- After 6 years of exposure to gas (perhaps ethanol an aggravating factor) the fuel line right after the fuel filter went bad (brittle and cracked) deformed and obstructed the flow of gas out of the fuel filter. Also, the once white fuel filter turned yellow brittle.

- After re-assembling, having previously added Techron to gas and having sprayed carb with Carburetor Cleaner some more accumulated gunk got loose and carb soon got contaminated once again.

- A final carb disassembly and cleaning (very thin wire plus carb cleaner) and new gas finally set things straight.

Finally, here is a picture of the degraded fuel line (I sliced it to show the degradation) :

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/37943868/IMG_0284.jpg

The interior had completely degraded, the thin exterior sleeve (apparently a different material?) was holding the whole thing together, but the deformation was apparently blocking the fuel filter exit and thus no fuel was reaching the carburetor.

All is in working order now.

Thanks everybody for all your help.
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