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Old 08-07-2010, 04:30 PM   #1
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EU2000i and AC

I just recently bought a Honda 2000. From reading this forum I knew in advance that it was insufficient to run my AC, and I was ok with that.

We haven't had need to use it with out trailer yet, but the last time I had the trailer at the house, I decided to fire up the gennie, plug teh trailer in and check everything out.

Well, I started the gennie, let it warm up, then plugged in the trailer.

As soon as I plugged the trailer in, the gennie overload light briefly came on and then went out.

When I entered the trailer to check out the 110ac voltmeter I have installed there, I found that the AC was running - I had left it switched on since our last trip!

What gives here? Has anyone else found that the EU2000i can (just) run the AC? From my AS manual I believe my AC is 13,500 btu.

I'm still not that concerned about bein able to run the AC,it, but if it is up to the task, I might put it to use at some point. Presume doing so cannot harm the gennie, and at worst it would trip the breaker?


Brian.
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Old 08-07-2010, 04:54 PM   #2
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Hi Brian,

Question, did the compressor kick in. My AC blower fan will run off the gen till the compressor kicks in, sometimes that can take a few minutes.

I have heard that with a "Soft Start" capacitor, the 2000 will run a 13.5.

I've tried the experiment with my 15.000 with the installed soft start cap without success.

Let us know
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Old 08-07-2010, 07:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtStream View Post
Hi Brian,

Question, did the compressor kick in. My AC blower fan will run off the gen till the compressor kicks in, sometimes that can take a few minutes.

I have heard that with a "Soft Start" capacitor, the 2000 will run a 13.5.

I've tried the experiment with my 15.000 with the installed soft start cap without success.

Let us know
Good point, I shut it off right away, so I'm not sure, you could well be right! I will try it again next time I have the trailer out!

The fact that the overload light on the gennie came on made me assume that the compressor had cause that.

Maybe the blower alone would cause the overload light to come on as it started? If so, that wouldn't auger well for being able to start up the compressor!

Brian.
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:06 PM   #4
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From all the reading and research I've done on generators, etc...it's my understanding that perhaps ... under the right circumstances, a 2000w generator might run the AC for a while... if there are no other loads ... but that it is marginal at the very best, and it is not healthy for the AC unit or the generator. The AC compressor start-up puts the most strain on the generator....and that's where you need the power at a sustained level.
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:34 PM   #5
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If you consider your a/c disposable, it might be a good experiment.

After a lot of reading, I couldn't figure out whether it was torque or over-current conditions that caused a/c's to fail in the stories I read -- I decided that it didn't matter. They failed and I don't want that!

I went with the Yamaha 2400is for my 11,500 btu a/c and watch the voltage like a hawk. A meter that you may find to be good for home and RV is the Kill-A-Watt.

John
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:45 PM   #6
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I run my A/C all the time with the Honda 2000. I did install the SSP6E start capacitor about a year ago. It will run the A/C for about 6 to 8 hours.
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Old 08-07-2010, 09:22 PM   #7
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What happens after the 6 to 8 hours? If it runs it for 5 hours, why wouldn't it continue to run all day if needed?
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Old 08-07-2010, 09:42 PM   #8
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The thing with A/C units is that the amperage varies. On "high fan" they will draw somewhat more than on "low fan." On a hot day they will draw more. If the condenser is dirty or has poor airflow, they will draw more.

I do not buy into the often-repeated belief that low voltage shortens the life of A/C units. I believe this myth is promulgated by RV dealers who do not wish to tell their customers that their A/C units failed because they were made from low-cost, poor-quality components.
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:24 PM   #9
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The numbers...

Below are two items...The first is from the Honda EU2000i online specs showing the max output (2000w) and sustained (rated) power (1600w) produced...

The second is from the Honda EU2000i brochure which gives powers needed, both starting (2800w) and sustained running (1800w) for an RV 13.5 BTU AC as well as other appliances, etc.

This is why we don't run our 13.5 BTU AC with our single 2000w Honda.
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:40 PM   #10
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Thanks fur the numbers TB!
Man, no wonder I keep running down my batteries, I gotta turn off my 1/2 HP Sump Pump
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:52 AM   #11
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Thanks for the various replies.

Sounds as though even if it might work, it could be potentially damaging to the AC and/or the gennie, so I won't push my luck!

As I mentioned I bought the 2000 with the understanding that I could not run the AC unless I bought a second unit so its no disappointment to me!


Cheers ......... Brian
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:14 AM   #12
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In case you're interested in another generator, our 15,000 btu A/C runs beautilfully off two paralleled Honda 2000's.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:06 AM   #13
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A few posts back I made the comment that my 2000i will run the A/C (13,500 unit) for about 6 to 8 hours. What I should have said was "on a tank of gas!". Sorry about the confusion. If you go to "casitaforum.com" you will see about a hundred posts on using the 2000i Honda for A/C.
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:23 AM   #14
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Several years ago I was at a local event where our Fire Department had their "Firewise" 25' Demonstration trailer. AC was 13k and powered by the Honda 2000i. All interior lighting was LED. I asked the Firechief if they had any problems with the setup and he said it worked just fine. That week I purchased one and have been a happy camper ever since. When needed, I set the AC to low cool and the temperature to minimum and it will cool the interior to 76-78 in 10 minutes or less. The newer AC's are much more efficient and have soft start circuitry built in.
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