EU1000 stumbles

[Fyrzowt]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Where I work, most everyone has their own tools, but I have many specialty tools you don't find every day that they need to borrow. I keep several pages of a legal pad with each person's name on it, and write down the tool they borrow. If they borrow the same tool twice, the third time they have to buy one of their own.

I like that system.
Years ago (1976-1980) I worked in a small engine repair shop. Out of that experience I also developed the policy of not loaning out power tools. There are too many people who don't have the concept of checking the oil, or of making sure you use mixed fuel in a 2-stroke engine, etc. It always amazed me how many people would simply return the equipment to the owner instead of having it repaired - especially when it was something that they had done to create the break-down.
I do loan out other tools from time to time. They usually come back...
Dave

[ts8501]

I have the exact same unit. I have had it for 5 years now, and have had the exact same problem twice. Here is what I have learned, and how I now avoid the problem, and what you need to do.

Your carb jets are dirty. This is from the gas and/or Sta-bil. Clean or get the jets cleaned. Then in order to avoid the problem, do the following:

1) Before storing for more than a couple of weeks, run out all the gas out of the unit. Do not store it with any gas remaining. Run it until it stops from lack of fuel.

2) Do not use Sta-bil. I know this sounds wrong, but since you are not storing, you will not have to use Sta-bil. Sta-bil seems to add to the jetting problem.

3) Buy only the lowest octane unleaded fuel. Do not use any premium grade. The little guy can't handle the higher octanes.

Since doing 1-2-3, I have not had any further problems. A Honda Certified Tech gave me the information. I was tired of servicing the rough running unit every year!

-Tim

[thecatsandi]

Originally Posted by ts8501

I have the exact same unit. I have had it for 5 years now, and have had the exact same problem twice. Here is what I have learned, and how I now avoid the problem, and what you need to do.

Your carb jets are dirty. This is from the gas and/or Sta-bil. Clean or get the jets cleaned. Then in order to avoid the problem, do the following:

1) Before storing for more than a couple of weeks, run out all the gas out of the unit. Do not store it with any gas remaining. Run it until it stops from lack of fuel.

-Tim

Ok this counters what I have been told. Evaporating gasoline leaves behind "varnish". That is why you want it a full as you can get it.

[azflycaster]

Sounds like we have some conflicting information. Let's see:

Sta-Bil is good/bad?
Keep the tank full/empty?
Gas should be low/high octane?

[Fyrzowt]

As posted in an earlier post, I worked in the small engine repair business from '76-'80. Technology changes, but at that time the recommendations were:
Regular fuel in a 4 stroke, drain the carb and run it out of fuel prior to storage.
While it's true that "evaporating" gasoline leaves varnish, if there is no gasoline in the tank/carb to evaporate, there will be no varnish.
Dried out gaskets however,can be a problem if you run the carb dry.
I know nothing about Sta-bil other than hearsay.
Dave

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

...Gas should be low/high octane?

owners manual suggests "octane rating of 86 or higher"

i try to avoid fuel with much ethanol content, for all the obvious reasons.

so in the winter that often means using premium fuel, which has NO negatives for the genset,

except price.

Originally Posted by azflycaster

...Keep the tank full/empty?

really depends on the definition of 'storage'....

IF intentionally mothballing the genset, for 4-6 months or longer, i'd drain it.

but 2 months with a full tank should not be harmful, if the ethanol % is kept low...

Originally Posted by azflycaster

...Sta-Bil is good/bad?

IF long term storage is necessary AND draining/burning all the gasoline isn't possible,

a little stabile in ONE tank should NOT be a problem...

i don't routinely put stabil in the fuel can however.

must be a slow weekend here.

cheers
2air'

[safari 28]

A product that over the years has been just incredible is Lucas fuel treatment. I use it in my boat every year in the spring. Tank has been filled and fuel conditioner from the dealer installed in the fall, but the gas is just old. This stuff makes it seem like fresh gas. It also works as a cleaner/lube for fuel injection systems. I use in all my kids cars, really helped in high altitude applications where older fuel injectors are clogging due to lack of air.

For my 10 kw back up generator at the house, I keep the tank filled and apply the Lucas. I run the unit monthly for 20 minutes under load/ when home??. I never use Stabil, had problems big time before I was turned on to this Lucas fuel conditioner. Once/ year I drain what is left if not used and start with a fresh tank.

[henw]

All gasoline in Fla will now be 10% ethanol. The only exception will be at Marinas as the alcohol can damage fiberglass tanks on boats. But, the marinas are having a hard time in finding the real stuff. It does run hotter. And, I am concerned about what it will do to my generators.

Tom

[Pick]

Solved all those problems by converting mine to propane! Really glad I did after reading this thread. My EU2000 is 7 years old, probably has about 250-300 hours on it.

[62overlander]

if you test the gas in all 50 states you might find as many as 100 different blends. The blend of additives and the new addition of corn to our gas makes for a very inconsistent product. Small engines have a hard time coping with the drastically different blends.

[ts8501]

I know it is counter intuitive (low Octane, no Stab-bil, run gas til empty). I use Sta-bil in everything, but not the Honda any more. I never usd to run fuel all the way out for just two weeks of storage. I now run out all gas in the EU1000. Lastly, it runs great on the lower Octane Unleaded (MN is also 10% Ethenol in all fuels). So I understand the head scratching. All I can say is that when I run mine in this manner, it runs like a champ. When I thought I knew better, and went back to my way, I was back to cleaning out the jets as it idled like a bad Model T. Do note that I have a 5 years old EU 1000. I believe they updated to model since then, so I cannot speak to whether the newer model requires the same treatment.

[DFord79]

I have used Sta-bil for 30 years. NO problems of any kind. I have many small engines from mowers, tillers etc. They always start easy for me in the spring. I just keep them clean and maintained and full of gas treated with Sta-bil over the winter.

YOU DO NOT NEED PREMIUM....in anything that is not specifically designed for premium. There are NO benifits. NOT my opionion but the advice of all manufacturers and information from Gas companys back up this.

Ethenol in an engine that is not designed for it causes problems with gaskets and fuel lines. My auto manual for my late model Ford Thunderbird say's DO NOT RUN MORE THAN 5% ethanol. My old truck started leaking fuel from the fuel lines just before that fuel tank. They were spongy and buldging. When I replaced the lines with new ones I took the old ones to a friend who works for Chevron. He told me the problem is ethanol in the gas I was burning. He was correct. I was using a cut rate gas with 10% ethanol. I stopped using that fuel and no more gas line deterioration. The newer cars that are flexfuel cars have fuel lines that will handle Ethanol without deterioration.

This all applies to small engines such as the Honda genny's.

One of the ways some gas is cheaper than others is they add ethanol to the limit allowed by the local or state regulations. Nothing wrong with ethanol of course as long as your vehicle/engine is designed for it. Ethanol also burns cleaner.

My friend at Chevron told me a rule of thumb is cheaper cut rate gas has more Ethanol in it. Also I found out that (all of us know) cut rate gas has the minimum additives allowed for the specific area it is sold in. This is the ONLY difference between cut rate and say...Chevron of Shell. But in the long run these cut rate gasses MIGHT????? cause some issues with clogged injectors and, and in my case with an old vehicle, some fuel line deterioration and dried up gaskets.

[Beginner]

I can see that.
I have been buying Price Club Gas (COSTCO) for a couple of years. A friend that has a body shop tole me that he tried BP because of where the money goes (England Europe predominately).
He then noticed better milage and smother idle.
I got caught in a pinch Sunday and for the heck of it filled up at BP. Whin a couple of minutes I noticed a difference.
Today the 84 Camaro starts better and idles smother.
I'll let you know about the gas milage. Currently I get between 220 miles and 240 miles per fill up. We will see.

[Pappy]

I have a 3 year old Honda Eu2000i which I start once a week.
I used some gas that had STA-BIL in it that was fresh and it stumbled.
The only way it would run was partial choke eco setting off. I let it
run for about 2 hours but it wouldn't run without partial choke. Dumped
the gas put in fresh ran it partially choked for about an hour now it runs
fine. I think there is something to the fact that STA-BIL seems to be
suspect here. For me no more STA-BIL in the Honda generator.

My 2 cents.

Pappy