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Old 03-03-2016, 11:58 AM   #15
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Although we have the Honda 2000 eu combo we mostly use one and find it adequate. It is a balancing act. The 30 amp plug connects directly to the trailer using a heavy electrical cable to avoid the voltage drop. Be careful about the automatic electrical distribution in the trailer. The 2000 does the coffee pot, hair dryer, micro wave, electric water heater one at a time. We also use an electric induction cooker for the pots either in or out.
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Old 03-03-2016, 12:55 PM   #16
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Tripppin: The comment from n2916s above is worth noting. The EU2000 is described by Honda as intended for 1,600 watts continuous output. At 120v, that's 13.3 amps. You should have access to the amperage ratings of the major appliances and systems in your trailer. You've said you won't run the AC, so that removes the single biggest load. If you have a Sharp convection microwave like the one that came in our trailer, it draws 12.5 amps. The next biggest load for me is the aftermarket Progressive Dynamics converter/charger draws up to 7.9 amps (the original converter was rated lower, but I can't remember by how much). Generally it draws less, but that is the maximum.

That doesn't include things like fans, TVs, computer chargers, crock pots, etc. which all add up.

I routinely run on just one of the two Honda's 2000s that I carry (living in the south, I want and use AC on generators from time to time... hence the two unit package in my truck bed) including to run the microwave. However, I keep a close eye and ear on the noises of the generator and the microwave (it looks and sounds "off" if it is starved for voltage... heed those warnings if you detect that and turn off the microwave).
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Old 03-03-2016, 01:11 PM   #17
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When dry camping, I usually wait until I want to run the coffee maker or the microwave before I start my Honda 2000. First thing in the morning I found that the microwave, a new Panosonic, was struggling. I found that the smart converter, installed by the previous owner, was drawing up to 600w in the morning after an evening of lights and maybe a little TV. That was not leaving enough for the microwave, so I installed a switch to turn the converter off before I run the microwave. All is well.

I used my Kill-A-Watt meter to determine the usage.

You might want to think about that.
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Old 03-03-2016, 02:40 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by mfrez View Post
So are we saying that in order to use an inverter generator we NEED to use this bonded plug, if we are plugging directly into the trailer? I've never heard of this before. I always just plug in without one.
What could happen? Not sure if I understand
That's the way I do it, plug in and play, no problem...
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:27 PM   #19
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I am not sure anyone is answering the basic question. I believe that if you try to use a sophisticated surge protector with a generator that is not bonded the suppressor will not allow power flow. You should be able to just plug the generator in to a "naked" trailer and it will work. I have also read that there is a possibility of a gfi tripping without the plug, but that does not seem to be reported here.
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Old 03-03-2016, 03:32 PM   #20
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TRIPPING; you mentioned you have a Progessive Dynamics surge suppressor inline with your future 2000i. If your PD surge suppressor test the line for correct grounding you can have a problem. I have a PD management system, not hardwired, and I can not run any of my Honda inverters (Yamaha same issue) with the PD unit. The warning was BOLD in my PD manual. I contacted PD directly and they say inverters have a floating ground and systems that test for correct ground will fail the test. Thus take the inverter offline. Check your manual and better yet call PD customer support. They are very helpful. PD said under some conditions damage can occur. Call them!
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:03 PM   #21
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So are we saying that in order to use an inverter generator we NEED to use this bonded plug, if we are plugging directly into the trailer? I've never heard of this before. I always just plug in without one.
What could happen? Not sure if I understand
See what happens to your GFCI circuits when you don't.

They probably won't be too happy with an unbounded power supply and won't be working properly. I've seen this situation quite often.
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Old 03-03-2016, 05:15 PM   #22
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So plugging in any generator via the 30amp receptacle requires a modified plug? Why would the manufacturers not already have it wire that way? Is there an after market product you can buy. I've never seen any RV run by a generator using bonded plugs and grounding to the ground. I don't plan to use my surge protector when I get a generator. Why would you need it. The generator won't have surges will it?

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Old 03-03-2016, 08:33 PM   #23
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So plugging in any generator via the 30amp receptacle requires a modified plug? Why would the manufacturers not already have it wire that way? Is there an after market product you can buy. I've never seen any RV run by a generator using bonded plugs and grounding to the ground. I don't plan to use my surge protector when I get a generator. Why would you need it. The generator won't have surges will it?

Kelvin
One never knows…..do one?

Simply because many folks are not aware of the NEC requirements and don't use a neutral-to-ground bond in a free-standing generator doesn't mean that they don't exist or you should not follow them.

That's why I counsel all of my clients who run small portable generators to use the plug-in neutral-to-ground bonding method. Many won't go to the extent of adding a grounding rod for the generator frame, but your owner's manual WILL specify one if you read it. It's in there…………

Listen, this is really not a point of argument as it's YOUR TRAILER and you can DO WHAT YOU WANT! The requirements and codes are there for a reason. You are free to follow them or ignore them. NO ONE has to follow what I suggest as I'm simply making you aware of what those requirements are and as a certified professional, that I FOLLOW code when ever the situation is in question………..

Do a Google search on 'floating neutrals' and see exactly what can happen if your 120VAC system loses that neutral for any reason and the system is NOT BONDED.
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Old 03-03-2016, 08:39 PM   #24
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I think things would get pretty unconfortable inside the trailer if that happened.
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:21 PM   #25
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I think things would get pretty unconfortable inside the trailer if that happened.
Not only uncomfortable…….but very….VERY EXPENSIVE in a hurry!!!!
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Old 03-04-2016, 06:29 AM   #26
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I completely understand bonding neutral to ground IF the generator is grounded (best with a ground rod). And I understand that tieing the neutral to ground will make your smart surge suppressor happy. Where I am confused is, if the generator is not well grounded (say sitting on a rubber mat on top of a picnic table) how bonding would make things safer. Or would it?
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Old 03-04-2016, 09:52 AM   #27
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So getting one of these

http://www.progressiveindustries.net...tor-plug/c1mwy

should solve our problems?

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Old 03-04-2016, 10:39 AM   #28
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This is copy & paste from the OSHA.gov website:
Bonding Versus Grounding
Bonding and grounding are separate requirements for generators and other electrical distribution systems. Grounding means the connection, or the establishment of a connection, of an electric circuit or equipment to reference ground, which includes the generator’s frame. Bonding is the intentional connection between the grounded circuit conductor (neutral) and the grounding means for the generator, which includes the generator’s frame. Thus, effective bonding of the neutral conductor to the generator’s frame is also a concern for the safe use of the equipment. As with grounding terminal connections, proper bonding of the neutral terminal of a power receptacle may be confirmed via testing by a competent electrician with the correct equipment, and the ohmic resistance should measure near zero and must not be intermittent, which indicates a loose connection.

This has been a very educational topic for me.

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