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Old 08-11-2013, 05:48 PM   #1
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Best way to run a generator

I bought a Honda 2000 generator, just for charging the batteries when we are dry camping.
It came with cables, I assume I can hook up to the batteries, but that does not seem right.
I'm assuming I need to hookup the generator to a battery charger (plug it in) and put a charge in each battery, one at a time.
I guess it's best not to let the batteries get too low, so on a one week trip, charge them, once or twice.


Thanks,
Jeff
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:51 PM   #2
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Jeff, howdy!


I don't know about direct connect to battery from any AC power source. That would be "crossing the streams" in Ghost Buster speak. Bad

Now that we understand that... Explain your cables to us. Where do they come from on your generator? What are they labeled?
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:58 PM   #3
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Update.

I see that Honda offers a 12VDC Unregulated charge option. Is this what you have?

Seems to me I would rather let converter recharge AS batteries. Just plug in your generator to your AS! Or bring along a dedicated battery charger for charging external batteries.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:02 PM   #4
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Well just plug the trailer in and let the converter do the charging. The output from the converter 12V power supply is probably larger than the 12V output coming from the generator.

Perry
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:09 PM   #5
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If you got the straight 2000i, you will have to buy an adapter to plug in your 30 amp cord (15 amp to 30 amp adapter). Then just plug your AS into the 2000i, and let the converter recharge your batteries. If you bought the 2000i Companion, it has a 30 amp outlet, but you will still need an adapter (30 amp twist connection to 30 amp RV connection). The 12v plug on the 2000i is for recharging/starting dead car batteries...and doesn't have the regulated output to best charge your AS batteries.

That's my take. I have the 2000i and the Companion for future boon-docking.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:31 PM   #6
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Not trying to hijack, but this might be relevant, as well.
How many of you 'ground' your genny?

Before I sold my EF2400iS (LP converted ) I would drive a 4' grounding rod into the ground, connected with some #6 AWG bare copper wire.

Never had any issues, just rarely used it. My pair of group 31's outlasted the holding tanks
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:09 PM   #7
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I will have to do that when I set up my gennies.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:17 AM   #8
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Wow! Thanks for all the feedback. I might have a bad converter. I've gone through two batteries in the last year by leaving the trailer plugged in, and the isolator switched to run. The batteries boil over, I can tell by the smell.
I was going to quit charging through the converter.
The unregulated cables that I ordered with the generator would be fine for jump starting a dead car battery, I guess. I'll not use them for charging.
I was thinking I had to go with a battery charger plugged into the generator, but I think I have to charge one at a time. It just seems like a time consuming, and labor intensive process.
Jeff
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:28 AM   #9
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You have a bad converter, in the sense that it does not have a float charging mode, a new 3 stage unit will solve the battery boiling.

Give Randy a call at Best Converter for recommendations.


Bob
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:51 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
You have a bad converter, in the sense that it does not have a float charging mode, a new 3 stage unit will solve the battery boiling.

Give Randy a call at Best Converter for recommendations.


Bob
Thanks Bob,
My trailer is still under warranty, but it doesn't make sense to replace the bad converter with one just like it. I'll give Randy a call. Is the install pretty difficult?
Thanks agin,
Jeff
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:15 AM   #11
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Thanks Bob,
My trailer is still under warranty, but it doesn't make sense to replace the bad converter with one just like it. I'll give Randy a call. Is the install pretty difficult?
Thanks agin,
Jeff
Jeff,

It wasn't a difficult swap with our Classic, it uses a stand alone converter with separate distribution/fuse panel, not sure how yours is equipped. Either way it's not all that difficult.

I used an IOTA IQ4 DLS 55a from Best Converter.


Give Randy a call, he won't steer you wrong on the best option for your needs.

Bob
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Old 08-13-2013, 07:46 AM   #12
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I think AS switched to 3-stage converter at some point, or maybe on some models. Reading the manual, I *think* my 2010 CCD has a float mode... but is there anyway to tell by looking at the panel?
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Old 08-16-2013, 02:42 PM   #13
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Jeff,

It wasn't a difficult swap with our Classic, it uses a stand alone converter with separate distribution/fuse panel, not sure how yours is equipped. Either way it's not all that difficult.

I used an IOTA IQ4 DLS 55a from Best Converter.


Give Randy a call, he won't steer you wrong on the best option for your needs.

Bob
Nice... it's sooo tidy in there!
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Old 08-16-2013, 05:13 PM   #14
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x2 on Bob's suggestion to contact Bestconverter. I upgraded my stock Parallax single stage converter to a Progressive Dynamics Intellipower 3 stage converter about 3 years ago. Bestconverter is great to deal with and provide detailed instructions on doing the upgrade. It took me about 30-45 minutes to swap mine out. When I did the upgrade, I also put in some Lifeline AGM batteries. I leave my trailer plugged in all the time at home now and no problems.

As far as the genny goes, just plug the trailer 30 amp cord into the 2000i using a 30 to 15 amp adapter.
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Old 08-17-2013, 06:21 AM   #15
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With these nice new converters, does the loud fan still come on all the time?
I'd like to eliminate that nuisance if possible. Ballpark $$ if you don't mind telling.
I really like it that it was less than a hour to install. Ill triple that for me. I don't know the difference between volts and watts.. Ha
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:50 AM   #16
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I never really notice the converter running, so yes I would say it is quieter. As far as cost, under $200 for the converter. As Bob said above, contact Randy at Bestconverter and he will help you with it.
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:04 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
With these nice new converters, does the loud fan still come on all the time?
I'd like to eliminate that nuisance if possible. Ballpark $$ if you don't mind telling.
I really like it that it was less than a hour to install. Ill triple that for me. I don't know the difference between volts and watts.. Ha
Couple hundred bucks. I have an IOTA and it is very quiet compared to the Parallax. The fan is constantly variable and speeds up based on load not heat so the fan never has to run very fast. I'll look for my install posts and post a link here. -Brad
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:07 AM   #18
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Here's the link to my IOTA install: I added Lifeline Batt's as well.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ml#post1101799
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:07 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
With these nice new converters, does the loud fan still come on all the time?
I'd like to eliminate that nuisance if possible. Ballpark $$ if you don't mind telling.
I really like it that it was less than a hour to install. Ill triple that for me. I don't know the difference between volts and watts.. Ha
GA,

Time to install depends on how your Converter is installed. You can see in my pic's above ours is a stand-alone unit mounted in it's own compartment under the front sofa/bed. If yours is behind a panel with integral fuse/distribution center it is a bit more involved but still pretty straight forward.

I know our fan has come on but I've only noticed it when the access door is open.....the IOTA is very quiet.

IOTA price....


Bob
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Old 08-17-2013, 09:11 AM   #20
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Here's the link to my IOTA install: I added Lifeline Batt's as well.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ml#post1101799
Mine is post 36. I recommend that you wire a pigtail edison plug for the new converter and not cut the plug off of the converter as I did because it voids the warranty. The converter is working fine but I would have had an issue if it had failed during the warranty period.
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