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Old 08-30-2015, 06:45 PM   #1
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Battery Disconnect and Tri Metric 2030 controller installation

Here's my iteration on a battery disconnect, a Tri-metric 2030 charge controller, a 2030RV display, Grape Solar foldable 100W. panels and connector details.

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/x...pscm2vwfv2.jpg

First pic is a test to see if my photos will come through.
Location of closed enclosure on A frame. not a c.m. to spare.
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Old 08-30-2015, 06:46 PM   #2
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Well that didn't work so lets try this route.
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Old 08-30-2015, 06:54 PM   #3
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OK, good to go now.
Close up of controller, upper right are the Anderson Powerpole connectors to connect 35' of #6 to the solar.


Also showing shunt and disconnect. You can also see the thermistor, I probably should have mounted this in the battery can as I might get erroneous readings from heat output of shunt.


Here you can see the Burndy Hypress #6-#6 wire couplings in the battery box.
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:02 PM   #4
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Here's the 2030 RV display.


Here's a closeup of a #6-#6 Burndy Hypress sleeve. These are kind of neat because they come pre no-oxed, pre insulated, and sealed. you can get them in step sizes for different sized wires. These are usually used by your electrical service provider a (like PG and E) for overhead services. The do however take a special crimp tool to make an approved splice.


Here's a closeup of the anderson Powerpole connectors
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:03 PM   #5
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Here's a closeup of a pair of Grape 100W. Solar cells.


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Old 08-30-2015, 07:13 PM   #6
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Lost one pic.
Here's what you have to wear to conform to OSHA specs to do this project

All in all very happy with the install and it works like a champ!
J.B.
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:49 PM   #7
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Looks like a very good installation but I do have a couple of questions/comments.

The thermistor for the temp compensation should be in the battery box to measure the battery temp. It is essentially useless in the location you have it.

It appears that you have an inverter (factory option) in your rig, as there is an extra set of positive and negative large wires hooked to your original batteries. You have not run them through the shunt so your inverter current is not metered and is not logged through the Tri Metric.

Or am I reading the photos wrong?
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Old 08-30-2015, 08:15 PM   #8
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Correct on both points.
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Old 08-30-2015, 09:57 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by jbxx View Post
Correct on both points.
I believe in order to get correct readings on the TM you will need to connect the negative from the inverter to the shunt. At least when I asked Ralph ( Bogart Engineering) that is what I was told in using his products.


George
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Old 09-03-2015, 05:55 PM   #10
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Nice Job, several questions.

Thanks for the info related to your solar install, nice job. I have a couple of questions. In the combined photo what is the purpose of the disconnect switch? Is it to prevent current from flowing back into the new charge controller. In use you would set the disconnect to open the circuit when not trying to charge the house bank from the connected solar panels?

The red cables that enter your new box and are attached to the solar terminals of the controller are apparently fused. Are these fused with the Burndy Hypress sleeves you show in your photos?

It looks like you were able to get the new charge controller and the wiring accomplished in a new box that is about 6" x 12" x 14" size. Are these dimensions about right?

You show the charge control panel mounted in the AS. Where did you find it convenient to locate it?
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:21 PM   #11
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The disconnect is so that I can isolate the phantom loads. Where the AS lives the house is off grid. I understand that I am not quite using the 2030 to its maximum capability but I'm only really interested in monitoring the inputs. As far as the Thermocouple, I measured temps under varying loads between the two enclosures with an IR gun and they were pretty much the same. There is a loop of wire in excess that I can move it to the battery box when I eventually change batteries and can drill the battery box easier.
The two little blocks on the lines coming from the Anderson Powerpole connectors are fuses for the solar input, premade up; link to follow.
MAXI Fuse Holders with Ring terminals and 75 Amp Powerpoles [RGH-08] - $24.99
I am (in the future) going to add a couple of 300A. Anderson connectors so I can add batteries remotely in the TV as needed. The Burndy Hypress sleeves are located in the battery box. They are the cylindrical black/blue doohickeys. The location for the display is also not the best. It is on the little mini shelf located at the back of the queen bed . I did run terminal strips under the access compartment under the bed in case I ever wanted to relocate the display to a better place.
I think that covered your questions, If I missed anything, please come back.
J.B.
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:31 PM   #12
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I missed the question about the enclosure size. I will measure it when I get up to the cabin next week sometime. That was the other limiting factor as I had zero room to spare , if I added the inverter loads I would have had to go to at least a 1/0, more probably a 2/0 wire. and I really very rarely use the 110 off the inverter, in fact so far I have never used it.
Just like in my house I try to keep most my loads DC. When I need the AC I run one of several generators depending on the load. (We are off grid ).
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Old 09-04-2015, 12:57 PM   #13
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Did you take 100W panels and add handles, latches and hinges? I can't find that Grape sells foldables that large.

Thanks,

Al
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:40 PM   #14
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Yes , I added the handles and hinges. I also screwed one up by inserting a latch screw in the wrong place. Luckily I have uses for the on I boogered up.
J.B.
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