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Old 06-03-2007, 11:18 PM   #15
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DavidZ,

Did you take the cover off your refrig vent? It looks like you cut a hold for the wires and mounted the combiner box inside the vent? Then ran the cable down the back of frig.

Was there a 2nd screen blocking the access from the top or just the one screen that you show in the photo?

I tried unsuccessfully to run a cb wire down the back of my frig last year. It seemed like there was a 2nd blockage further down than the top screen.
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Old 06-04-2007, 07:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingfoot321
DavidZ,

Did you take the cover off your refrig vent? It looks like you cut a hold for the wires and mounted the combiner box inside the vent? Then ran the cable down the back of frig.

Was there a 2nd screen blocking the access from the top or just the one screen that you show in the photo?

I tried unsuccessfully to run a cb wire down the back of my frig last year. It seemed like there was a 2nd blockage further down than the top screen.
I wasn't sure what I would find and I wanted to remove the fridge vent hood to see the condition of the wire covering the top. It was coarser than I had thought and in great shape. I really didn't have to remove the vent hood at all. I just placed the combiner base next to the side of the vent stack, marked the center hole where the cable would enter and drilled it out large enough to fit the 8/2 cable plus wire loom. You may have run into the fins of the fridge coils at the top of the exhaust area. I ran into that and kept moving it around until it worked it's way down. One tip, use a mirror and a flashlight to see up inside the area. It worked great for me.
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Old 06-04-2007, 07:41 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LI Pets
I was looking at these panels they are about $1500 and adds about 50 pounds to the roof, to say nothing of wind resistance.

Why not get four 6 volt batteries?
LI Pets,
There isn't much room on the tongue for more than 2 batteries and I don't want to use AGM inside under the couch. I now have one 12 volt on the curbside compartment but will use it for storage after the new area is built. Have you looked at the Trojan T-145 specs? Something like 260 amp hrs.
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Old 06-04-2007, 08:03 AM   #18
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craig

instead of modifying the battery box(s) why don't you make a box for them drop them the ground near the tounge, and plug your umbilical cord into a 7 pin receptical.

you could make a vented lockable box that could be locked to the safety chains.

no changes to the trailer and you would still have all the reserve for boondocking.

john
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Old 06-04-2007, 10:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
craig

instead of modifying the battery box(s) why don't you make a box for them drop them the ground near the tounge, and plug your umbilical cord into a 7 pin receptical.

you could make a vented lockable box that could be locked to the safety chains.

no changes to the trailer and you would still have all the reserve for boondocking.

john
Hmmmm. Now there is a thought.
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Old 06-05-2007, 09:25 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
craig

instead of modifying the battery box(s) why don't you make a box for them drop them the ground near the tounge, and plug your umbilical cord into a 7 pin receptical.

you could make a vented lockable box that could be locked to the safety chains.

no changes to the trailer and you would still have all the reserve for boondocking.

john
I have a feeling this might be helpful to me, too. But...I've read this several times, and just can't visualize it. Can anyone take a stab at restating this for uncomprehending oafs like me?

Cheers,
-jd.
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Old 06-05-2007, 06:32 PM   #21
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easy,

put your batteries in a lockable vented box.

the box would have a plug just like the back of your tow vehicle.

set the box on the ground near the tounge.

lock the box to your safety chains with a padlock.

plug the umbilicle cord into the box.

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Old 06-05-2007, 10:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
easy,

put your batteries in a lockable vented box.

the box would have a plug just like the back of your tow vehicle.

set the box on the ground near the tounge.

lock the box to your safety chains with a padlock.

plug the umbilicle cord into the box.

john
John,
I even read somewhere that you could take a large solar panel, hook it to a controller and then wire it to a female 7 pin receptacle like you mention. You could then plug in the trailer umbilicle cord. Gee, why not run the portable solar panel to the box on the ground, chain panel & box then plug in to trailer umbilicle cord?
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Old 06-05-2007, 11:40 PM   #23
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Thanks folks, I get it now. I was trying to picture these extra batteries mounted somehow to the tongue for towing!

(You only have to repeat things three times for me to "get it" )

Cheers,
-jd.
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:35 PM   #24
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Charging like a dream!

I unplugged the shorepower at 7:20 a.m., turned the system on and switched to dry camp mode. Right off the bat, battery voltage registered 14.43 volts, array amps 2.0 and charging amps 2.7. MPPT was flashing which meant battery was charged within the top 10 %. I got home at 5:15 p.m. and the battery was still fully charged even while the two Fantastic Vent fans had been running all day long on low speed.

This was exactly what I was hoping for. Now, I'll experiment with medium speed and then high to determine what I can do with just the one 115 amp. hour battery. When dry camping, I will also have to figure in the draw from the refrigerator panel.
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Old 06-08-2007, 02:00 PM   #25
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Solaritis

My name is Craig and I have a problem. I have solaritis also know as solar panelitis. I've now located a slightly used AM65 panel and it will be shipped next week to add to my existing two 100 watt panels. Stop me before I add any more!
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Old 06-08-2007, 02:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidz71
My name is Craig and I have a problem. I have solaritis also know as solar panelitis. I've now located a slightly used AM65 panel and it will be shipped next week to add to my existing two 100 watt panels. Stop me before I add any more!
Craig,

There is no twelve-step program for solar panelitis. In fact, when compounded by aluminumitis, all you can do is let the fever run its course. No rest for you until you find the twin to the AM65!

Craig
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Old 06-08-2007, 02:32 PM   #27
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Looking good there Craig! I'm currious if you would be willing to shoot out a round number for what your solar system has run cost wise. I can see how solar might be a nice addition for the trade wind down the road. By the way, I am just to your north this week camped in my moms yard.
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Old 06-08-2007, 03:44 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Looking good there Craig! I'm currious if you would be willing to shoot out a round number for what your solar system has run cost wise. I can see how solar might be a nice addition for the trade wind down the road. By the way, I am just to your north this week camped in my moms yard.
No secret to pricing:

$569 X 2= $1,138 for the AM100 panels
$35 X 2= $70 for rocker foot mounts for the panels
$5 for 3M/VHB double sided tape already applied to rocker foot mounts and cable mount pads below
$75 for wire harness consisting of 10/2 and 8/2 wire, 3 cable ties & pads to hold cables to trailer, 30 amp breaker w/2 end connectors, two 8 ga. battery connections, wire identification stickers
$25 for wire, cable ties & pads for second panel
$25 for combiner box with 2 cable strain relief waterproof connections
$15 X 2= $30 for two tilt bar sets (tilt toward sun during winter & clean under panel)
$235 for HPV-22B charge controller with switch (boost type)
$20 X 2= $40 for solar panel repackaging
$78.50 for freight
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$1,721.50 total

Counseling for solar panelitis is extra. I won't know the total for the AM65 until the shipping is figured in but the used panel alone was $269 or so.
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Amsoil Dual by-pass oil filtration system
Amsoil synthetics all around
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