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Old 01-05-2015, 04:01 PM   #15
2 Rivet Member
Mission Viejo , California
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 90
As a former industrial and marine electrician, I would have only matched panels and batteries on my personal RV. Any mismatched components would be removed and sold, donated or recycled.

Some people are more open minded about mixing and 'matching'. I am not one.

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Old 01-05-2015, 04:53 PM   #16
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2015 30' Classic
2012 28' International
Greensboro , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,599
Soon, my new '15 Classic will arrive. I am adding 600W of panels and 4 6V Lifeline AGM's. I decided to go whole hog and install one of the Magnum MSH-M sine wave inverter chargers. It retails for around $2000, but if you shop around you can get it for $1,500. So between the panels and the inverter, I'm adding around $5500 for off the grid "luxury." I'll do the install myself, though I confess that my buddy Lew has (as he always does) provided guidance on the how-to portion. I'm comfortable with the solar install as I did 400W in my '12 Intl CCD and it worked perfectly. AND, since I bought from AM Solar, I knew the instructions would be complete and everything would be supplied -- including the cable ties. The solar is an awesome upgrade, I think. My experience last summer with my Intl convinced me of the value of a top notch package. Never had a worry about running out of battery power.

"SilverLeaf II" 2015 30' Classic
2014 RAM 2500 Laramie 4x4 CC w/6.7L Cummins
ProPride 3P
AIR# 58452
WBCCI # 3430-Unit 21
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Old 01-05-2015, 05:14 PM   #17
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 811
You are not going to make it camping indefinitely where nighttime temps dip regularly into the 20s with the setup you are describing.
We hunt in Colorado in the fall with a large single panel solar. We need a generator to supplement the solar, more so on cloudy days with two group 27s.
I would ditch the flooded cell and go with a third identical agm (or a fouth if you have the room). The colder it is the more reserve amps you need. Ditto for the 15 amp solar. It does little and impedes integrating your system.
Unless you are into switching batteries in the middle of the night, an isolated third battery will not help you.
I would go with all the panels your roof can accommodate. Roof space on your small trailer rather than wattage of the panels is what is meaningful. You will get better performance if you can adjust your panels into the sun.
If you have not done so, I would upgrade the single stage house converter charger in your unit to a three or four stage converter. Plugged into shore power, the stock controller will greatly shorten the life of your expensive agms. The bulk charge function on your upgraded converter will shorten the needed generator run time.
I am unfamiliar with the solar controller you plan to use. Make sure it is adequate for the job and meets the parameters other posters have described.
I would upgrade at least some of the lighting in your trailer to LEDs. Incandescent lights burn up a lot of power.
We have a Olympian catalytic heater. We use it when we are awake. It burns no electricity and keeps the trailer warm.
A Mr. Heater is a substitute but you will burn up a little propane bottle in a short time.

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