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Old 04-20-2016, 10:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gklott View Post
Waiting to hear from Beach Bum about the "special lewster airstream conduit" as a viable option without having to remove the furniture to get it there.

73/gus
Had to find the pictures of the install.

Wire run: From roof down the fridge vent, drill hole in wall next to dinette run under dinette bench, Along wall under dinette table with Lewster aluminum conduit that is pop riveted to the wall, under opposite dinette bench under folding table, into storage area on the side of the gaucho, under gaucho where batteries, solar controller and inverter charger are installed. The exposed aluminum conduit looks great.



The folding table between the gaucho and the dinette bench did need to be removed to cut and install the conduit. The rest was done with furniture in place. Gaucho obviously had to be removed to install batteries ....


In our 30' FC this was a straight run down the driver side. Not sure how this might work in a classic. Lewster did the install with outstanding supervision by yours truly

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-21-2016, 02:01 AM   #16
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The reality of solar panels is 75% on good designs. So our 800 watts has generated 575 real world watts on a bright day. Thus if I can squeeze two more panels on my roof, I can hope for 750 watts generated and probably see just over 700 to 725 real numbers. Those sales ratings are based upon laboratory conditions which do not exist outside.....
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:06 AM   #17
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Fit the panels? Batteries?

I'm dying to know -- do you think you can fit the 335W panels? Would be amazing if we could free ourselves of the 12v panels. Also curious: what size battery bank will you use? How did you choose that size battery bank? Are you doing a combo of series and parallel batteries, and is that a problem (all the off-grid people I've been reading say only to run batteries in series to maintain full charging lifetime capacity). I'm trying to figure out my own system and I'm headed towards a MSH3012 magnum installation with new batteries and panels myself, in a 28' International 2007.
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:25 AM   #18
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Just a quick note about using residential panels in a mobile environment. These panels are meant for permanent mounting on a roof THAT DOESN'T MOVE, bouncing and vibrating down the road at 65+ MPH.

They were never intended to be used on an RV and as such, there is a large probability of damage from their flexing.

If you are after a high voltage array, just wire all of your smaller panels in series. I would not use panels over 160 watts on ANY RV. 🙄


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Old 05-05-2016, 06:40 PM   #19
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Lew,am curious as to why the 160W limit?

All panels we should consider must have the UL-1703, IEC61215, and IEC61730 certifications. Would also prefer that the panel have the ISO 14001 certification. We should also ensure that the complete installation complies with the NEC and with ANSI/RVIA Standard for Low Voltage Systems in Conventional and Recreational Vehicles.

The most common RV panels would then be the ones that are ~ 26" to 31" wide and 35-50mm depth to fit on RV roofs. That would include panels like the
Grape Solar GS-S-160-Fab8
Kyocera KD 145 SX-UFU
Carmanah CTI-160
Eco-Worthy M160-1
Synthesis Power SP130P
Solarland SLP160S-12
Hanwha SF160-24-M185L-B
Ameresco Solar 150J and 190J

Carmanah (Canadian made) panels tend to sell for about $100 more than the others. The rest seem to be in the $225-$300 range.

Given that larger panels are heavier and have larger sail plane area, what is technical difference if properly mounted?

73/gus
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I'm dying to know -- do you think you can fit the 335W panels?
I am still looking at some larger panels and associated mounting options. These larger panels and the roof profile may require a custom mount made from 80/20 aluminum products.

Research continues.

73/gus
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Old 05-05-2016, 06:51 PM   #21
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I'd also consider the Renology 12V, 100W and 150W panels. They were the best value last time I looked. The Renology 100W panels are currently selling for $135 on eBay with free shipping.
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Old 05-07-2016, 10:11 AM   #22
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I am going to jump in and ask a question here, apologies for the hijack...

I am thinking of adding another 100 amp panel to the existing solar system on our 25 FB. We currently have a 150 watt Zamp panel and 30 amp Zamp controller, using the factory 10 AWG wiring. Our batteries are the standard group 24 lead acid type.

I asked a very reputable solar company about adding the additional panel, and they came back saying that it would be a waste because of the 10 AWG wire, but the controller would be fine. Is there that much line loss as to totally negate the benefits?

I guess I could drop either 6 or 8 AWG wire down from the controller, then put a hole in the belly pan and run the new wiring to the batteries, but I really don't want to do that.

Opinions????
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Old 05-07-2016, 10:32 AM   #23
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In your 25FB, let's assume the length of your solar pre-wiring is 60'. That's a reasonable assumption given my 30' Classis is about 70'. So The resistance of the #10 AWG solar pre-wiring is approximately 60 milliohms. Your 150 W panels deliver about 8 A at 18 V, so the voltage losses due to the solar pre-wiring are 8 A * .06 ohms = .48 V or .48 V / 18 V = 2.6%. If you add an additional 100 W panel, this will increase your losses to 13.5 A * .06 ohms = 0.81 V, or 0.81 V / 18 V = 4.5%.

The losses are a bit more that most folks like to shoot for but certainly it's worth adding another 100 W panel and accepting a minor loss.
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Old 05-07-2016, 10:40 AM   #24
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I am going to jump in and ask a question here, apologies for the hijack...

I am thinking of adding another 100 amp panel

Opinions????

I'm being nit picky but assume you mean 100 watt panel.



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Old 05-07-2016, 10:58 AM   #25
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I'm being nit picky but assume you mean 100 watt panel.

- Brad Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
Yup, Watt not Ampre. There was a loose nut at the keyboard!!!
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Old 05-08-2016, 06:55 AM   #26
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To avoid compatability problems, the second panel should probably come from the same company as the first. The devil is in the detailed specifications and with marginal wiring size, you want everything else compatible to maximize what you can get to the battery system.
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Old 05-14-2016, 06:42 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gklott View Post
Lew,am curious as to why the 160W limit?

All panels we should consider must have the UL-1703, IEC61215, and IEC61730 certifications. Would also prefer that the panel have the ISO 14001 certification. We should also ensure that the complete installation complies with the NEC and with ANSI/RVIA Standard for Low Voltage Systems in Conventional and Recreational Vehicles.

The most common RV panels would then be the ones that are ~ 26" to 31" wide and 35-50mm depth to fit on RV roofs. That would include panels like the
Grape Solar GS-S-160-Fab8
Kyocera KD 145 SX-UFU
Carmanah CTI-160
Eco-Worthy M160-1
Synthesis Power SP130P
Solarland SLP160S-12
Hanwha SF160-24-M185L-B
Ameresco Solar 150J and 190J

Carmanah (Canadian made) panels tend to sell for about $100 more than the others. The rest seem to be in the $225-$300 range.

Given that larger panels are heavier and have larger sail plane area, what is technical difference if properly mounted?

73/gus

AM Solar tested a bunch of higher watt solar modules about 20+ years ago on real RVs the panel damage due to flexing and vibration were unacceptable at that time.

This is the main reason you won't find larger modules uses for RV systems from a commercial source.

Some DIY systems might have them in places like Quartzite.


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RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
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Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center*AMS Lithium Batteries
Lifeline AGM Batteries**Magnum Inverters***Victron Energy Components
541-490-6357
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