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Condoluminum · 08-19-2013, 03:34 PM

For the person who asked about the Univolt.. It is generic term now for the power supply/battery charger that the 110 volt power goes to first, inside the trailer. It draws electrical current "off the top" of the incoming supply to charge batteries (Priority 1!) and then provide 12V power to inside lamps, fans, refrigerator controller, furnace and water heater control circuits and valves, etc.. Whatever is leftover is available for the Air Conditioner or Wall Outlets or microwave in the trailer.. Most trailers are wired so the air conditioner and microwave can't be tuned on or active at the same time (those plus residual current load of univolt/converter exceed 30 Amps..).

If generators are surging and revving up and down, then I'd suspect one or both generators, or the bridging cable/hookup. When our Honda 2000 capacity is exceeded, it just tries to rev a little and shuts down. Using the Eco setting does cause a lot more speed variations with lighter loads, but should stabilize.. We also discovered that carb jets do get clogged if units have sat a while with gas in them, and it takes 15 or 20 minutes of running to clear all of the carb jets.. We've not had good luck with Stabil or other alleged gas stabilizers, though I realize that is a different thread altogether...

TinShack · 08-19-2013, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBRich

Make sure the gas caps on both generators are turned to "on"...this allows air into the system so the genny can draw fuel. If they are in the "off" position, they will run for a while, then falter and stop. I have forgotten to switch them to "on" more than once!

Yep, this would cause the generators to shut down. I've done this before too. I suppose it's possible that even if turned to "on". It may not be venting properly. One more thing to check.

jdalrymple · 08-19-2013, 04:10 PM

Does your trailer have an electric water heater option?

If so, it is a heavy electrical load.

Regards,

JD

Moflash · 08-19-2013, 04:50 PM

Did both units rev when ac kicked on or tried?Are both units showing overload or just one?

I have a 15000 btu ac unit and the same gens that you have,I start my gens then go to thermostat and turn on ac it usually takes 2-3 mins the gens ramp up for 3-5 seconds and then the ac comes on and gens rpms fall back down

.Eco mode only works for charging Batteries or light load.
It sounds like you are in eco mode

Jonnagyp · 08-19-2013, 05:25 PM

I spoke to Honda to get help and they said to make sure ALL things are turned to propane gas or off.

He explained that as soon as the trailer has power coming to it, it attempts to start heating the water in the hot water heater, and it starts to run the refrigerator that could either be on electric or auto, or gas.
He said to double check that all are set to propane or off.
After checking, our little button switch in the bathroom was in the "on" position and not off for water so I turned it off.

I now have a perfectly running AC unit running in my airstream and I am ready for my next trip!

Thanks to you all for your help.

I hope this helps another RVer who is having the same problem.

Jonnagyp · 08-19-2013, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBRich

Make sure the gas caps on both generators are turned to "on"...this allows air into the system so the genny can draw fuel. If they are in the "off" position, they will run for a while, then falter and stop. I have forgotten to switch them to "on" more than once!

For sure, this will get you. I am still having the main 2000 Honda not run smoothly, and when I asked the guy at Honda, he said, it can "look" for a load. Not sure about that, but it would be nice if it ran as nice as the companion I got with it.

LFC · 08-19-2013, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

I had the same problem, it turned out my starting cap was marginal. I changed to an easy start kit and now the dual 2000's have no problem kicking the 13500 off.

There's your answer.....you need what is also referred to as a "hard start capacitor" installed on the AC unit itself.
Easy to install by an AC tech and the part is not very expensive.

TBRich · 08-19-2013, 08:22 PM

Jonnagyp ... You didn't say, so I just wanted to check to make sure you are connecting your Airstream's shore power cord to the Companion's 30-amp outlet...you do need an adapter for it (which converts the twist & turn female plug on the generator to a regular female 30 amp female plug). Pic below.

jdalrymple · 08-20-2013, 06:27 AM

Glad you found it.

Lots of things to remember.

One can force the refer to propane by choosing LP instead of auto.

And, can still have hot water by using propane.

Your pair of EU2000i should be happy.

Look at an extended run fuel tank. We have one that can be connected to both units.

It is a handy way to transport fuel, and not have to refuel the gensets to often.

Regards,

JD

dznf0g · 08-20-2013, 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LFC

There's your answer.....you need what is also referred to as a "hard start capacitor" installed on the AC unit itself.
Easy to install by an AC tech and the part is not very expensive.

A little bit off thread, but do any of you find that a hard start capacitor is beneficial when in a park with relatively low voltage? I noted this summer at several parks where the voltage was down around 108V, the A/C seemed to struggle to start up. Not bad....just labored a bit when the compressor would come on. Make sense?

slowmover · 08-20-2013, 06:39 PM

A voltage regulator is what is wanted for low park power: FRANKS, HUGHES or POWERMASTER. Also called power booster, etc.

Other threads on this. I was going to go with a hardwired unit, but after another here had his burn up, I'll stick with one I can place under bumper (and cable lock it).

I've used 5-2-1 starters on home A/C units, but I gues we should ask Vernon what he used on his (brand? capacity?) roof A/C unit.

.

newroswell · 08-21-2013, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

A little bit off thread, but do any of you find that a hard start capacitor is beneficial when in a park with relatively low voltage? I noted this summer at several parks where the voltage was down around 108V, the A/C seemed to struggle to start up. Not bad....just labored a bit when the compressor would come on. Make sense?

A friend of mine who is an A/C tech said it's a shame for any A/C to not have a good start capacitor on it. They're cheap and make your a/c a lot happier even with good voltage. It does not FIX low voltage and that is a serious problem, but it will help from drawing the voltage down even lower.

perryg114 · 08-21-2013, 04:53 PM

What was the fix for his problem?

Perry

HiHoAgRV · 08-21-2013, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slowmover

A voltage regulator is what is wanted for low park power: FRANKS, HUGHES or POWERMASTER. Also called power booster, etc.

Other threads on this. I was going to go with a hardwired unit, but after another here had his burn up, I'll stick with one I can place under bumper (and cable lock it).

I've used 5-2-1 starters on home A/C units, but I gues we should ask Vernon what he used on his (brand? capacity?) roof A/C unit.

.

Starting caps are a trade off. My unit, with the 20 year old cap would cause a serious 'grrr' every time the compressor started. A rather Manly sound but required some serious short term amps that campground power could suck up but would knock a genset to its knees. Once running, the amp draw was low. An 'easy start cap' is available (google it) and it eases the compressor up to speed, the down side is that when its running, the current draw is slightly higher and it causes the compressor to run hotter.

Goofy stuff having to do with capacitance, impedance, lead, lag and AC current.

Burp.

newroswell · 08-21-2013, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Starting caps are a trade off. My unit, with the 20 year old cap would cause a serious 'grrr' every time the compressor started. Burp.

A 20 year old starter cap is going to be dead and working against you. No help on startup and converting amps to heat while running. Try a new one, I bet it sounds and works better.

carl2591 · 08-22-2013, 11:32 AM

RV Air Conditioner Hard Start Capacitor | ModMyRV

installing hard start kit on Dometic A/C unit:

so easy a cave man can do it..

we uses to install them on older units where the compressor motor was starting to show age.. it helped up the power for starting especially on hot summer days in NC.

they are very easy to install just hook up wire to existing terminals.

albert · 09-05-2013, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

I had the same problem, it turned out my starting cap was marginal. I changed to an easy start kit and now the dual 2000's have no problem kicking the 13500 off.

Hi Vernon, what is a starting cap? How do you get one?
Thanks!

daveswenson · 09-05-2013, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carl2591

RV Air Conditioner Hard Start Capacitor | ModMyRV

installing hard start kit on Dometic A/C unit:

so easy a cave man can do it..

we uses to install them on older units where the compressor motor was starting to show age.. it helped up the power for starting especially on hot summer days in NC.

they are very easy to install just hook up wire to existing terminals.

Great link Carl!
Here's a link to the Cap referenced on that page.

Supco SPP6E E Series Electronic Potential Relay Style Hard Start Kit, 1/2 - 3 Horsepower Range, 88-106F Capacitor Size: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

HiHoAgRV · 09-05-2013, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

Hi Vernon, what is a starting cap? How do you get one?
Thanks!

After a bunch of Googling, I decided to stick with a factory kit instead of aftermarket...

I believe this is the kit I bought at my local RV shop.

Dometic Duo-Therm Brisk Air Conditioner Motor Hard Start Kit - $2..

I strongly suggest you do a bunch of research, even Dometic says not to use their own kit on some AC units