Wire Gauge

[ericpeltier]

Does anyone have a suggestion for the right size wire gauge for trailer turn signals, running lights, etc?

I wired up my Streamline's taillights last night, temporarily. But I used some wire that was way too big for the job.

Thanks!
Eric

[AtomicNo13]

No wire can ever be way too big!

[HiJoeSilver]

My trailer used 14ga original.

[ericpeltier]

OK, 14 gauge.

Is anyone familiar with those little snap-on splice things? They seem to be more popular than wire nuts?

[scamp]

I highly recommend you don't use those ( snap on wire splice connectors) there really not that great . Sorry to rain on your parade!

Don

[idroba]

Originally Posted by ericpeltier

OK, 14 gauge.

Is anyone familiar with those little snap-on splice things? They seem to be more popular than wire nuts?

Popular because they are cheap and easy to connect, however they have many problems from cutting the feed wire, to corrosion to just flat out not working. They are not something I would recommend for anything but the most temporary work.

[Farmer Dan]

Eric,
If you mean the Scotchlok connectors, I advise against them. They will spread open on the wires and easily corrode, too. I have had bad results using them. If you have 12V power problems and these are in use, check them first.

Dan

[Burnside Bob]

Originally Posted by ericpeltier

Does anyone have a suggestion for the right size wire gauge for trailer turn signals, running lights, etc?

My 2009 Flying Cloud was factory wired with 12 gauge copper stranded to everything. As 12 gauge is rated at 20 amps, running 12 gauge to marker lights that pull 0.2 amps seems overkill.

I had to rewire the top half of my trailer and I used 14 gauge, which at 15 amps, is still overkill. The factory pigtails on the new marker lights (LED) looked like 18 gauge. Looked like 16 gauge on the LED turn signals.

On my Flying Cloud the factory made splices by stripping insulation off the wires, twisting them together, soldering, and then wrapping with vinyl electrician's tape. Each individual light and fixture had a dedicated 'hot' line soldered in. Terminal connections at individual lights and fixtures were made using crimp connectors.

[CRH]

I twist, solder and hest shrink where I can. If there isn't enough room to work, I use crimp connectors that have their own heat shrink ends. With that said, every now and then I have to use a Scotchloc.. ..those crimp on plastic wire tap thingies.

[ericpeltier]

OK - sounds like I need to find the 3 soldering irons I had in my 20's! And lots of solder.

I love me some heat-shrink, too. Looks pro.

Is there a type of wire that's considered "pro". I really only want to do this once. I'm also paranoid about wiring that's behind a panel that would be VERY hard to remove. (Like the connections that will be behind the shower when I reinstall that.)

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by ericpeltier

Does anyone have a suggestion for the right size wire gauge for trailer turn signals, running lights, etc?

I wired up my Streamline's taillights last night, temporarily. But I used some wire that was way too big for the job.

Thanks!
Eric

For the few cents more per foot, use a wire size that is more than adequate.

You can use # 14, or better yet # 12.

Andy

[55AS]

Tinned, stranded copper is about as Pro as you can get.

[Aerowood]

Shielded, tinned, stranded, twisted pair and Teflon insulated with common ground (all grounds returned to one common ground) is about as good as it gets.

[cwf]

Yup.. A bit larger will mean the wire can withstand more abuse if properly installed. Don't forget to use grommets to protect wherever the wire may "rub".

If space is too tight I use the "Liquid rubber" coating when I can't use shrink tubing. Paint it on in a couple layers the wrap with tape when "dry".

In my 1999 the trailer light wiring runs in a "chase" made of black PVC from near the Gaucho to the stern. I suspect there are places where the wire "exits"
To go to the "center clearance marker lights"... Our 34' is required to have the center clearance lights.

Be sure to leave some "slack" in the wiring behind the light components.. Easy to "pull out a bit of wire for a fix than rewiring.

I do NOT use the "scotchlocks" on anything which moves or shakes or vibrates or is in a harsh environment like our AS.

DO not scrimp here...

If you install a plastic "chase"x be sure to leave at least ONE "mule tape"...

[ericpeltier]

Great help, everyone!

So, does this look like a product you would buy?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...f_rd_i=desktop

Eric

[markdoane]

Yes. Except the text (which says 18 ga.) doesn't agree with the picture (12 ga.) Do you trust then to send the right stuff?

[mayco]

I ordered some #8 stranded from Amazon because of the price. I promtly returned it when I opened the package and saw the poor quality. I wont order wire again, Ill make the dreaded trip to the big box store. Just my experience. Read all the fine print you can find on the product, I thought I had. Good luck with your project!!

Mike